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Posted

Hi all I've just picked up a used neo scorcher in very good condition except for two of the tyres. One thing that I've noticed is that there seems to be some excess play in the steering if I pick the buggy up and move the wheels. I was just wondering if this is normal for this chassis or is it an underlying issue.

Your thoughts and experiences would be appreciated.

Steve.

Posted

A bit of play is entirely normal and doesn't seem to affect the buggy's handling at all. However if it is worrying you, Fusion Hobbies sell the GPM ballraced steering rack which tightens things up nicely.

Posted

Has anyone used the jazzhobby version of the alloy steering set up. £10 delivered from HK seems a bargain compared to the Tamiya branded version especially if it works just as good.

Steve.

Posted

I have fitted the Tamiya aluminium parts on my TT02 and they a exceptional. The steering is very direct and smooth.

These are also a big help for a cheap fix to remove slop

http://www.thercracer.com/2014/03/tamiya-54550-tt02-low-friction-step.html

Thanks qatmix what I've noticed with my neo scorcher is that the wheels don't return to the neutral position all the time. I've considered changing the steering servo to see if that helps. Any suggestions.

Steve.

Posted

The servo saver that comes with the TT02 is terrible. Replace it with either a 18mm horn or a strong kimborough one

Posted

The servo saver that comes with the TT02 is terrible. Replace it with either a 18mm horn or a strong kimborough one

I've got a spare high torque servo saver would that do the trick.

Steve.

  • Like 1
Posted

So here's the thing I started a previous post regarding the steering play/slop on my tt-02b. I bought a set of the hop up step screws which has firmed everything up quite drastically. The issue I now have is that if the buggy is off its wheels they will return to the neutral position after a full steering lock to the left and right but if it's on the ground stationary and I put a full lock on to either side the wheels won't return to the neutral position. It's the same when running it, if I turn it on a full lock and release the steering on the tx it veers to the associated side and I have to reverse the steering to straighten it up.

Has anyone else had the same issue and how do I cure it.

Thanks Steve.

Posted

That sounds like binding linkages to me.

In anything other than a very high-end perfectly slop-free race car, it is quite normal for the wheels not to return to dead centre if the car is stationary on the ground. However the natural looseness of the linkages should allow the suspension geometry to pull the wheels straight when the car is on the move.

If some of the joints in the steering linkages are binding though, the slight straightening force imparted by the suspension geometry will not be enough to fully straighten the wheels, and you will need to use servo power to haul them in line. This usually requires steering over centre as you describe, as the servo needs to take up any slack in the linkages before it can straighten whatever is binding.

So, I would suggest feeling every joint in the steering assembly individually, and freeing up the one(s) where you feel any binding.

Excessive slop is bad, but on anything other than a full-blown race chassis, a little bit of slop can be quite useful! It lets the car naturally compensate for its own imperfections.

Posted

That sounds like binding linkages to me.

In anything other than a very high-end perfectly slop-free race car, it is quite normal for the wheels not to return to dead centre if the car is stationary on the ground. However the natural looseness of the linkages should allow the suspension geometry to pull the wheels straight when the car is on the move.

If some of the joints in the steering linkages are binding though, the slight straightening force imparted by the suspension geometry will not be enough to fully straighten the wheels, and you will need to use servo power to haul them in line. This usually requires steering over centre as you describe, as the servo needs to take up any slack in the linkages before it can straighten whatever is binding.

So, I would suggest feeling every joint in the steering assembly individually, and freeing up the one(s) where you feel any binding.

Excessive slop is bad, but on anything other than a full-blown race chassis, a little bit of slop can be quite useful! It lets the car naturally compensate for its own imperfections.

Cheers for that. I was looking at the tamiya alloy racing steering and bridge hop ups. Not a bad price if you buy both from abroad then I found that jazzhobby do their own full set of alloy steering hop ups for just over £10 delivered. Both sets I notice used bearings.

Steve.

Posted

That will be one of the issues. The TT02B servo saver is pretty soft. I would actually just test it with a servo horn and see if the steering is ok? If it is then get a decent servo saver (I prefer the kimborough type). The other thing you can do as a short term measure is to super glue the TT02 servo saver together (take it out of the car and off the servo when doing this), this will take out the slop as its basically a fat servo saver, but as its super glue a large sudden hit will snap the glue and give you some give.

Posted

Other ways of improving sloppy stock Tamiya servo savers include gluing them together with a strong rubbery glue (same idea as the Superglue method, just springier) or getting a few of those small, strong elastic bands used on kids' braces, and putting them around the plastic "spring" to make it grip tighter.

I have also seen some folks putting some foam tape around the spring, and then putting a ziptie around that. The foam tape allows some give, while the ziptie provides firmness.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

hi - sorry to drag up a 2yr old thread

i too am having this issue of the steering not recentering onm my TT02B MS unless full left lock is applied

its manageable but......

so am considering the steering hop up and also an alu servo horn - am i heading in the right direction?

 

JJ

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