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mike_o

TT-02B / Neo Scorcher discussion

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Not pristine any more now :) in fact missing a fiat bit of paint from the wing but I bought this to thrash and it was good too drives really well and seemed to cope with the lrp motor and a 5000mah lipo really well small bumps in the runway was split and grass had grown through made it hop and jump but it was really well balanced and my punt on 1 degree toe in rear uprights and the two largest spacers in the rear shocks seemed just right.

On the negative side my old NiMH batteries are utter dung, some aren't really old but two that showed peak charge on the charger just had nothing. Good thing 2 new 5300mah lipos are coming this week.

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My friend and I just got Neo Scorchers to run at the track. What do you guys think about using the TT01 gear diff at the rear? The TT01 gear diff has metal gears but only three gears as opposed to the stock 4 gear diff.

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A better choice would be the DF02 diff. It has metal gears inside as well as a metal ring gear. The ring gear is the main problem with the stock TT02B diff - it flexes under heavy loads. A DF02 metal ring gear doesn't.

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We'll soon see I've just put a 100a Hobbyking ESC and 9T Turnigy Trackstar in mine. I will be going for Eagle Racing Ball Diff's and universal swing shafts if and when the standard gearset fails.

I had a run out with a 13x4 LRP motor and 5000mah Lipo last weekend and didn't experience any problems with the standard gears.

Carl.

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The stock diff gears seem okay for flat running, even with reasonably powerful motors. The problems seem to become apparent when jumping.

Because the car has no slipper, huge stresses are put on the drivetrain when landing a jump. These are focussed on the rear of the car, since (on most jumps) the rear wheels hit the ground first.

The Boondal guys had a lot of issues with this. That is why I built mine with metal diff gears and diff pinion from the outset.

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Thanks for the info. Yes the ring gear seems weak. I've already worn out a ring gear on the ball diff of my TT01 touring car.

I was hoping the drivetrain would be as reliable as the one in the Hornet, Egress and DT02/DT03. I've bashed and jumped the crap out of those cars at the track and none of them have skipped a beat, despite th fact that none of them have slipper clutches.

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I stripped the teeth on the ring gear on the stock rear diff running on just tarmac, that was with a castle 5700kv motor, I just thought I'd see how long it lasted, I usually run df-02 diffs and bevel gears. The stock diff lasted almost one 4000mah 2s lipo lol.

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Here's my new built Neo Scorcher. Still deciding whether I should apply the included decals. Do you guys think it will look okay with the paint job? Motor is a Tamiya 10.5T sensored hooked up to the included TBLE-02S. Added bearings, DF03 aluminum dampers, front and rear FRP damper stays and aluminum shaft and joints. The rear FRP damper stay is a must IMO because the stock plastic one is too soft and flexes upward as the suspension is compressed.

I have a NIB TT01 Type E kit that I bought as a parts car for my spec racer. I'll try to fit the ball raced steering arms that come with it. Looks like it will fit. Will probably get the DF02 universals so that I can take advantage of the longer travel of the DF03 dampers, and maybe the aluminum motor mount as well to help with the cooling.

Taking it to the track this Thursday to race against my friend's Neo Scorcher. Already have two spare TT02 gear sets just in case :)

imagejpg1-6.jpg

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Here's my new built Neo Scorcher. Still deciding whether I should apply the included decals. Do you guys think it will look okay with the paint job? Motor is a Tamiya 10.5T sensored hooked up to the included TBLE-02S. Added bearings, DF03 aluminum dampers, front and rear FRP damper stays and aluminum shaft and joints. The rear FRP damper stay is a must IMO because the stock plastic one is too soft and flexes upward as the suspension is compressed.

I have a NIB TT01 Type E kit that I bought as a parts car for my spec racer. I'll try to fit the ball raced steering arms that come with it. Looks like it will fit. Will probably get the DF02 universals so that I can take advantage of the longer travel of the DF03 dampers, and maybe the aluminum motor mount as well to help with the cooling.

Taking it to the track this Thursday to race against my friend's Neo Scorcher. Already have two spare TT02 gear sets just in case :)

imagejpg1-6.jpg

Liking those shocks, your 10.5T is not far off my spec, which is a Turnigy Trackstar 9T, mine goes like a scalded rat and is a real handful on wet hardpack now. I'm going to get a 19T pinion for mine as the 17T is too small I feel (savage acceleration, but top end isn't massive).

The decals are a chore and I had to use the windowlene technique to get it right. I was pretty please with it overall.

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Couldn't wait till Thursday so I went to the track to test out the Neo Scorcher. Ran four packs through it, about 10 minutes each. So far so good, no breakages. The Tamiya 10.5T is too slow for this chassis. Needs more power :) also needs more steering in my opinion. My 1/8 buggy turns in easier than this one. Might need the adjustable turnbuckes to alter toe for more steering. The sloppy stock steering arms worked fine too, I guess in a loose off road track it's hard to notice the slop. Will drop in a Speed Passion 9.5T ang test it out again on Thursday

image-1.jpg

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One hit. How does this compare to your df03 when both are out of the box. I know the neo scorcher has friction dampers but these are easily replaced. Would you pay the extra for a dark impact for example?

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One hit. How does this compare to your df03 when both are out of the box. I know the neo scorcher has friction dampers but these are easily replaced. Would you pay the extra for a dark impact for example?

Terz1,

Unfortunately, I don't have a DF03 so I can't compare the two. My only 1/10 4WD buggy runner at the moment is an Egress 2013. I actually thought about getting a DF03MS but didn't go through with it because of the transmission problems reported here.

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Here's a video of our Neo Scorchers getting some big air :) the stock diffs and gears have held up fine at the track. I did lose a kingpin and one of the lower ball connectors for the rear damper kept popping off. I had to switch it out for one with a longer thread.

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I'm thinking of running my neo scorcher on lipos. It's currently fitted with a firebolt 15 turn motor and a hobbywing quicrun 1060 esc. Up until now I've only used nimh's and fancy something a bit quicker so I thought I'd take advantage of the quicrun's lipo capability. Any suggestions regarding what lipos to use.

Steve.

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Turnigy 5000mah packs, about £13 each from hobbyking.

Do you think the quicrun esc will handle lipo's comfortably with a 15 turn motor. I was looking at the 2s4000mah25c's today.

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The zippy hard case packs? I've got a couple of those too. From memory the quick run is rated down to about 12t on 2s lipo so it should be fine. The zippy packs are rated at 100a discharge so you have a decent overhead in that setup. It should go well.

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The zippy hard case packs? I've got a couple of those too. From memory the quick run is rated down to about 12t on 2s lipo so it should be fine. The zippy packs are rated at 100a discharge so you have a decent overhead in that setup. It should go well.

Cheers my friend. I want to go brushless as well but couldn't afford the lipo's, new charger and a decent sensored brushless system this month so I decided to get the lipo's and charger first lol. Next month's expenditure will be a brushless motor and esc. Thinking of 8.5t.

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8.5t will go like a rocket. Not sure I'd bother with sensored for bashing or racing, definitely an essential for a crawler but not convinced for messing around or racing.

I know what you mean about the expense of switching over. I got the charger last year when my boy got his car and lipos. This year 2 packs for me and 2 packs for my younger boy were easier to swallow. Although I bought a cheap b3ac charger as a slow charge option. We are now set for a couple of years now I hope.

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I bought an imax b6ac today from hobbyking just struggling with what lipo's to buy. It's all pretty confusing at the moment lol.

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With the lipos the tt02b is straight forward as it takes probably all types of 2s lipo, its the older stuff you have to be careful with as stuff designed for stick packs might not have room for some packs those 4000mah zippy packs with the removable leads won't fit a wild one or my lunch box where others with end exit leads fit all my cars with minor mods.

I did a fair bit of reading to understand the c ratings and mah ratings of the packs. For instance my eldest has 2 5000mah 20c packs, these are capable of 100a discharge, my other boy has 2 4000mah 25c packs these are also capable of 100a discharge rate but due to the higher mah the 5000mah packs should last about 20% longer. The sums to get the discharge rate are 50 x 2 (for the 5000mah pack) and 40 x 2.5 (for the 4000mah pack). As long as the discharge rate of the pack is higher than the current draw of the motor you plan to use you are set.

Its then up to you whether you want a brand or are happy with a Chinese make like turnigy that may use the same cells but not the top ones.

I have a b6ac charger and its a decent bit of kit if we go racing I'll be getting another b6 for sure.

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The charger and lipo charging bag cost me £36 delivered ordering from Hobbyking's UK warehouse. I priced up a similar charger at my local model shop and it was £50. I was offered a basic lipo charger for £11 but though to myself may as well invest in something decent if I'm going lipo. I've picked up a db01 and will probably mirror the neo scorcher set up in that. Just need to find some connectors to mate the lipo connector with the esc's tamiya connector.

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Dump the tamiya connector as they can't even handle the current of a good ni-cd, let alone lipo. I've replaced all my connectors with deans but hxt (seem to be fitted to all hobbyking batteries) are decent too and they are about 3 quid for 10 pairs from hobbyking so worth adding to your lipo order.

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