TT-02B / Neo Scorcher discussion

[Vizual54]

I'm having problems with the screws for the rear damper holder backing out. When I was out driving the car today I had to tighten them 3 or 4 times during the 20 minutes I was out. I'm running the eagle model graphite damper holder. This probably puts a lot more stress on the three little poor screws since its a lot stiffer than the original.

Anyone else has this problem? And most important does anyone have a solution? Super glue?

I have already stripped the threads on one diff housing. I first thought it was because I first used the original screws with the original damper holder and then changed to machine threaded screws when I got the graphite damper holder. With my new housing I've only used the self tapping screws. Maybe should have used the machine threaded ones.

[XV Pilot]

I can't say I have had any issues with mine, but I am using the stock shock tower, so perhaps the extra stiffness of yours does have a role to play as you say.

A small smear of Superglue on the threads should stop them backing out, and you could use longer screws perhaps?

Some may disagree, but I would avoid the machine screws - they are not really designed for threading into soft plastic, and while they are more resistant to loosening by themselves, they are more prone to being pulled from their holes due to their finer threads.

[Vizual54]

Exactly my thoughts when I chose to not use them.

Will try the superglue method and see how it works.

Thanks!

[drcarlos]

I fitted my eagle racing graphite shock towers with the supplied allen headed screws. They have been rock solid and have not torn out or come loose despite being raced by both me and my youngest boy at the local club.

I would say that more expensive pro grade kits (my Schumacher Cougar SV2, my Boys Hobao Hyper H2 pro are two immediate examples I have in my house) all use machine screws into plastic as a standard and torn out threads are uncommon. I would suggest that you fitted the supplied screws.

Carl.

[BigSteve]

I'm looking for a decent replacement rear wing for my neo scorcher as the kit standard one is broke. Any recommendations. I don't want to replace it with the same and was wondering if any of Tamiya's racing wings would fit.

Steve.

Hi all am I correct in saying that there's no Tamiya buggy racing wing that can be fitted to the tt-02b without any modifications.

Steve.

[XV Pilot]

Look what GPM have made! A full steel replacement diff gearset for the TT-02B!

https://www.asiatees.com/display?Tamiya-TT-02-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Tamiya&model=TT-02&id=109358&pid=1

With DF-02 metal gearsets becoming harder to find, this should prove quite popular.

EDIT: Found it on Asiatees.

[Effigy3]

Look what GPM have made! A full steel replacement diff gearset for the TT-02B!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GPM-RACING-TT2100-BK-STEEL-RING-GEAR-BEVEL-GEAR-SET-TAMIYA-TT-02-TT02-B-Buggy/381321413344?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D9901316c457c4ea383e7862c62564372%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D381293724461

With DF-02 metal gearsets becoming harder to find, this should prove quite popular.

Ouch, almost $50 That's a 3rd the cost of the kit.

[speedy_w_beans]

I think the answer to buying a TT02B is just go buy a DF02 instead. All the gears associated with the diffs are metal, the dampers are true CVAs, and I've never read about someone stripping a spur gear or pinion (because it comes with a steel pinion to begin with). Tamiya went too far in cheapening the entry 4WD buggy kit, in my opnion.

And, if you're going to hop up a TT02B or DF02 with longer dampers, bigger wheels, turnbuckles, CVAs, steering racks, etc. just go buy a DB01 instead. Even a base Durga is a substantially better car to begin with, and it has a vast assortment of options to tune it just right.

Just my opinion.

[XV Pilot]

We are all entitled to our opinions, but personally I think the TT-02B is worth buying.

The DF-02 comes with sturdy metal diffs, but a weak tub with lower suspension arm mounts that are prone to damage in a crash. The TT-02B on the other hand comes with weak plastic diffs, but a sturdy tub with strong lower suspension arm mounts that can handle impacts with ease.

A TT-02B can be easily improved by adding DF-02 diffs, but a DF-02 can't be improved by adding a TT-02B tub - it won't fit. This IMNSHO makes the TT-02B the better buy.

(Both come with steel pinions, and while the oil shocks supplied with the TT-02B have fixed metal pistons rather than replaceable plastic ones, they are functionally no worse than the DF-02 items. Plus, how often do any of us change the shock pistons on a basher anyway?)

[speedy_w_beans]

Good point about the DF02 tub, but you'd have to hit a fence post or something really solid to crack the hinge pin mount. That can be fixed by using the hinge pin mounts as guides to drill holes into the tub, then bend some piano wire into the shape of longer hinge pins. This ties the hinge pins not only into the regular mounts, but also into the tub walls, and it fixes the issue since both ends of the hinge pin are constrained then. I've done this before.

Actually, I did change the shock pistons and tried different oil weights. The default DF02 kit build results in an underdamped suspension, and the tub slaps the ground too easily. I switched from 2-hole pistons to 1-hole pistons and ran a heavier weight oil. It helped some. A better answer is some better dampers with smaller piston holes and tighter sealing between the piston and damper body, but then the plastics are too flexible to realize all the benefit of the better dampers.

I think what I'm reacting to is spending lots of money to fix design and material problems. It's one thing to spend money on hopups to get some performance improvement -- it's done with a positive attitude and enjoyment of the base model. It's another thing to spend money on hopups to fix inherent kit issues -- then I feel like I'm just trying to band-aid a steaming pile together to make it work. I just don't have a lot of tolerance for drivetrain issues.

[DynamiteD]

I got my Dual Ridge around 3 weeks ago, and finally got my hop ups last week. I ran the snot out of it this past weekend and after about 15 good runs in it, I have to say I LOVE this car. It isn't fast, but man o' man, it sure is quick! I haven't had any major spills yet(knocks on wood) but I did hit a tree at a pretty good speed. I lost the bottom spring clip on the right front shock, but my LHS had v-parts trees in stock.

As a person just getting back in the hobby after a 20 year hiatus, this car is just what the doctor ordered. I'm looking forward to my wife yelling at me for the hundreds of dollars that I'm surely going to spend turning this thing into a beast. My excuse is that this is a much cheaper mid-life crisis-mobile than a 2015 Corvette C7.

Mike

[GregM]

Theoretically yes. Practically, I'd say the added weight of the metal gears is negligible, and the rest of the drivetrain should be strong enough to cope with them according to experiences from TT-02B drivers on TC.

Larger wheels and drivetrain resistance can be dealt with by choosing the right pinion size for the application.

[one_hit]

I'm having problems with the screws for the rear damper holder backing out. When I was out driving the car today I had to tighten them 3 or 4 times during the 20 minutes I was out. I'm running the eagle model graphite damper holder. This probably puts a lot more stress on the three little poor screws since its a lot stiffer than the original.

Anyone else has this problem? And most important does anyone have a solution? Super glue?

I have already stripped the threads on one diff housing. I first thought it was because I first used the original screws with the original damper holder and then changed to machine threaded screws when I got the graphite damper holder. With my new housing I've only used the self tapping screws. Maybe should have used the machine threaded ones.

I have the same problem. Front and rear damper stays would loosen after just one run. I used longer screws that punched through the diff cover. If they continue to back out, I will use M3 locknuts on the end of those screws to keep them in place

[XV Pilot]

That looks like a good idea.

Personally I would add the 3mm locknuts anyway, purely to make it look neater. Maybe some blingy blue ones?

[Kingfisher]

This thread should be renamed as The Essential Neo Scorcher Build thread. Thanks to this thread, I have nearly completed my Neo Scorcher using this as a reference. There's tons of great advice here. Thank you to all who have posted thus far.

Here's my setup. 

*The pinion set at the top left are incorrect for this. I goofed and ordered 0.4 pinions. I've since corrected that with a 20T 0.6 pinion.

*2nd row, 3rd one over. Those are actually for another TT02 kit that I am building.

1. Yeah Racing Ball bearing steering, YR Locker for the rear axle, Yeah Racing Aluminum conversion kit, YR driveshaft and driveshaft ends, YR motor mount, YR ball bearing kit.

2. GPM steel rear drive axles, GPM front and rear adjustable upper control arms.

3. Tamiya High Speed spur gear set. (Have not installed this as of yet. Wanted to see how it does with and without it.

4. Parts Bag A with the metal gears, as mentioned on page 1, and the gear has been shaved to fit in order to prevent binding.

5. Not pictured above: HPI Firebolt 15T motor.

6. I'm still waiting for the front adjustable tie rods to show up in the mail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I took it for a test run on the street in front of my house. I quickly realized that the combination of this much power and these tires are not good on the street at all. Every time I would try to give it some power, it would try to fish-tail and aim straight for the curb. After 2 near-misses, I stopped the testing. It's very quick. Today, I am going to take it to some dirt trails and see how it does. I still need to paint and sticker the body and wing. 

 

After a quick inventory of what I didn't use, I am only a couple parts trees and 2 parts bags away from building another in kit form. 

[Problemchild]

superb - this is what i was going to do BUT ended up getting an MS as it had most of those parts

am now gonna get a Neo Scorcher shell BUT looking at the cost of a shell and stickers, for £40 more i can get a Neo kit and have LOADS of spares then

JJ

[TurnipJF]

That looks very pretty!

 

Aren't you worried about the alloy arms and towers though? I have read that they are prone to causing damage in a crash because they don't flex like plastic or fibreglass ones, and pass all the collision stresses into the chassis plastics, potentially cracking them.

[Rb4276]

Has anyone used the high speed gear set on their tt-02b? If so please give your opinion, I just ordered a new stock spur gear since I wrecked mine and was thinking of adding this

[Kingfisher]

6 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

That looks very pretty!

 

Aren't you worried about the alloy arms and towers though? I have read that they are prone to causing damage in a crash because they don't flex like plastic or fibreglass ones, and pass all the collision stresses into the chassis plastics, potentially cracking them.

I thought about that, but then I found and picked up another TT02 tub on ebay for cheap before I ever built it. I figure that I would take my chances and see what happens. I plan to run it in dirt only, so if there's a collision, it'll be from a badly landed jump.

 

4 hours ago, Rb4276 said:

Has anyone used the high speed gear set on their tt-02b? If so please give your opinion, I just ordered a new stock spur gear since I wrecked mine and was thinking of adding this

I have it, but have not yet installed it. I'm going to run the stock spur gear for a bit, and then see how the high speed spur changes it.

[Problemchild]

I'm just starting to get the creaking from the diff

JJ

[Kingfisher]

7 hours ago, Problemchild said:

I'm just starting to get the creaking from the diff

JJ

Does the MS kit you have come with a metal or plastic drive gear?

[Problemchild]

plastic (i think) i didn't assemble it but remembering the upgrades, there was no gear upgrades, only drive shaft

 

JJ

[Rb4276]

5 hours ago, Kingfisher said:

Does the MS kit you have come with a metal or plastic drive gear?

Plastic 

[Rb4276]

Today I put in the new 70t spur that came in the mail and finished filing down the metal pinion bevel gear from the dt-02 parts bag A. Seems to fit like a charm and runs back to normal so far. 

So after I burn out my hpi 15t motor I will go brushless but a tame one 

[Rb4276]