59592 Rock Socker Build

[IBIFTKH]

I don't wanna derail, but how does this configuration of shocks and springs improve on more conventional designs?

Great build thread, thanks.

The cantilever system gives greater axle articulation than standard upright shock mounts. Not sure of the benefits of separating shocks and springs, presumably it makes it easier to swap / fine-tune settings.

Great build Axe-boy, enjoying this.

[Axeboy]

Step 29 adds the body mounts and the front bumper. The body mounts complete the overall structure by sliding in between the frame. Very solid.

Notice the error

[Axeboy]

Step 30 and 31 were the wheels.

My god

Ive got so many blisters.

I painted the wheel rings in halfords best undercoat. I didnt want red and black would just blend with the wheels.

Each wheel needs 20 BD4 screws. The worst part of the build by far. I have the scars today!

Glove helped a bit

[Axeboy]

All wheels done, finally!

[Axeboy]

Step 32 adds the usual bearings and pins etc to enable all 4 wheels to go on.

Step 33 adds the battery and the battery holder. I used a 3racing holder... nice but needed a few spacers added to the pin mounts to fit right.

[waterbok]

Wait till you get the urge to put some weight in the wheels.

:-)

[Axeboy]

Then I tested it.

2 issues.

One is the bumper which you can see. The other was mentioned waaaay at the start. The steering was crap and this is why.

And the right way:

[Axeboy]

So, for some reason i mounted the servo arm on the bottom instead of the top. Easily fixed thankfully.

The shell has pre-cut arches which is good. I'm using spare paint from other builds, will update that later tonight.

tested it already and seems to perform well. I've locked the diff which is an option way back at the start but easily adjusted with a grub.

[Axeboy]

Wait till you get the urge to put some weight in the wheels.

:-)

Never!

[Grastens]

The cantilever system gives greater axle articulation than standard upright shock mounts. Not sure of the benefits of separating shocks and springs, presumably it makes it easier to swap / fine-tune settings.

I read somewhere that the springs are only there to give the kit a more 'scale' appearance, given the conventional placement of shock absorbers and the cantilever setup present on the CR-01. It at least gives the chassis marginally more resemblance to the CC-01, which has them placed in a more normal position... The idea of fine-tuning is a better one, though.

A good build thread so far - it is interesting to see the CR-01 in such detail.

[Axeboy]

Ive ruined the shell a bit.

Dont know if its too hot here today but the paint has come out very patchy. I'm sure it'll be presentable enough after stickering but not ideal

[SteveU30]

Wow, some pace on this build thread, from start to paint in 3 hours! Looking good so far matey!

[fristajlo]

Nice build! Made me want one of these of course Some nice hop up bits available too

I have one question though about the bearings. Did you need the additional bearings? I've seen bearing sets for the cr01 that are 20, 32 or 40 pcs. What would be the correct set?

[Axeboy]

I don't think any of the kits are correct! but I think I only used 20 or so

I got the CR01 set from RC bearings and used only the 1050's from it I think (maybe some 1150's)

I didnt need any of the abnormally large or small ones at all.

[SteveU30]

I'm now seriously tempted to get one of these and put a hard body like a Blackfoot or Clod on it.

[fristajlo]

Thanks Axeboy, seems like Stella sells a kit of 20 pcs that replaces the plastic or metal bushings. Ordered one of those kits

[Axeboy]

Holes drilled and checked for fitment

[Axeboy]

Masking on and ready for the awful painting

[Axeboy]

Photo never shows how bad it is, but almost done:

[Axeboy]

Painting was terrible but nothing like some stickers to sort it out.

All done.

Few things I noted:

1. The bearings needed as per above, not easy to understand but frist seems to have solved the right kit

2. Wear gloves when putting the rings on the wheels

3. Take care doing the servo arms, not like I did

4. Plastics seem good quality

5. Lots of metal parts in the kit although the props are plastic. Upgrades available but a spare set in the kit too

6. Masking the rear bed was a pain, i got a fair bit of bleed around it as its a tight area to mask

Overall a good enjoyable build Next!

[bromvw]

I'm now seriously tempted to get one of these and put a hard body like a Blackfoot or Clod on it.

i fancy dropping a New Bright Jeep body on to one Steve . Great chassis with durable shell and 1.9 wheels would make a excellent scale crawler IMO

[Grastens]

Looks good in green - will you be giving your thoughts on it as a runner soon?

[fristajlo]

Looking good!

[wolfdogstinkus]

Nice chassis, Not seen many builds of that chassis on here. Good, clear, detailed pictures.

I have studied the manual online,. dreaming of the day when wifey lets me get one.

Paint looks fine and it means you won't mind getting it dirty.

But, a Scotsman moaning aboot blisters????, you got the blisters because you were too tight to buy an electric screwdriver. :lol:

Probably still had blisters on it from the way out of your pocket after buying the kit. :D

Disclaimer : (This post was made at nearly 1 in the morning, and is not meant to offend )

[Grastens]

you got the blisters because you were too tight to buy an electric screwdriver. :lol:

Probably still had blisters on it from the way out of your pocket after buying the kit. :D

Reminds me of the time before I had heard of bodyshell reamers, and wound drill bits by hand through the shells to create mounting holes... Those were the days!

(and technically still the days - I have yet to acquire a reaming tool, but have not had to drill polycarbonate for a while now)