blackfoot 3

[vrs55 35]

Hello guys been looking at what might be my next build won't be for a couple of months yet but looking ahead was thinking of something like the blackfoot 3 and had a few questions about it would it handle a mild brushless system like the etronix photom 12t and also is there any other wheels that fit as not to keen on the chrome looking wheels that comes with it

[mr crispy 2293]

This was mine with Maverick Scout wheels & tyres.

The off set on the Mav wheels brings them in a bit, but that's a photo of the BF3 with TL01 suspension arms on. It's 12mm hex hubs all around so easy to swap wheels with plenty of choice out there. The gearbox is the same as in the WW2 chassis's so it should handle the extra power fine with the usual bearings and pinion upgrades.

[vrs55 35]

This was mine with Maverick Scout wheels & tyres.

The off set on the Mav wheels brings them in a bit, but that's a photo of the BF3 with TL01 suspension arms on. It's 12mm hex hubs all around so easy to swap wheels with plenty if choice. The gearbox is the same as in the WW2 chassis's so it should handle the extra power fine with the usual bearings and pinion upgrades.

great thank you crispy one last question is there other shocks that fit was thinking colored springs was hoping to find yellow ones

[Vrdetailing 1241]

My Brother inlaw has a 5250 Brushless system running on 2 cell for his kid and its fine

[XV Pilot 1936]

great thank you crispy one last question is there other shocks that fit was thinking colored springs was hoping to find yellow ones

The WT01 chassis used on the BF3 benefits greatly from aftermarket shocks and shock towers. I use GPM towers and Ansmann shocks with Tamiya seals on mine. It jumps well, and is very stable.

[vrs55 35]

The WT01 chassis used on the BF3 benefits greatly from aftermarket shocks and shock towers. I use GPM towers and Ansmann shocks with Tamiya seals on mine. It jumps well, and is very stable.

So well worth the towers and shocks

[zomboided 374]

I'll add my vote for the towers and shocks, really makes a big difference as the stock travel was pretty limited.

I also made mine 4wd, using another gearbox and motor. I've only been able to hop it up speed wise with a different pinion because the motors run in opposite directions to each other and I've read a bit about advanced timings on some of the hotter motors. This would also make your brushless plan more difficult too

[Vrdetailing 1241]

Don't you just swap two phases on brushless motors

[mr crispy 2293]

The 4 wheel steering conversion is pretty easy with this chassis too. You can swap arms over with the TL and M chassis's to change the width. Have you seen the build thread I did last year on my BF3?

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=69003&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1

Went through a few different configurations and did the 4WS, great fun. I now have another WT01 configured as standard with the Maverick wheels & tyres and a Jeep shell.

Has anyone got a link to those alum shock towers?

[XV Pilot 1936]

Here you go:

http://www.fusionhobbies.com/product/wd028-gpm-tl-01b-wild-dagger-alloy-front-rear-damper-mount

[SteveU30 1011]

The WT01 chassis used on the BF3 benefits greatly from aftermarket shocks and shock towers. I use GPM towers and Ansmann shocks with Tamiya seals on mine. It jumps well, and is very stable.

Is that 100mm Ansmanns? What is the handling/grip-roll like with them?

[SteveU30 1011]

 

I also made mine 4wd, using another gearbox and motor.  I've only been able to hop it up speed wise with a different pinion because the motors run in opposite directions to each other and I've read a bit about advanced timings on some of the hotter motors.  This would also make your brushless plan more difficult too 

Actually the timing on brushless motors is the same no matter which direction they are rotating which makes them the ideal option for this chassis when running it in 4WD.

[mr crispy 2293]

Thanks XV. Looks like someone should tell Fusion the Wild Dagger isn't on a TL01B chassis!

[XV Pilot 1936]

Is that 100mm Ansmanns? What is the handling/grip-roll like with them?

I went for 95mm Ansmanns, as I had read about grip roll issues when people went for longer ones. With the 95mm shocks, the car behaves superbly. Handling is pretty neutral unless I am right on the edge, at which point mild oversteer kicks in. And I haven't grip rolled yet.

[vrs55 35]

been pricing the kit up with brushless motor and esc combo bearings, servo, radio gear, shock towers and shocks now this will sound like swearing but its nearly as cheap to buy a hpi bullet mt rtr

[SteveU30 1011]

been pricing the kit up with brushless motor and esc combo bearings, servo, radio gear, shock towers and shocks now this will sound like swearing but its nearly  as cheap to buy a hpi bullet mt rtr 

Two points to make against that thought

1. With the HPI you won't have that proud 'I made that!' look on your face when you're hooning it around.

2. It's not a Tamiya

[vrs55 35]

Two points to make against that thought

1. With the HPI you won't have that proud 'I made that!' look on your face when you're hooning it around.

2. It's not a Tamiya

good point

[zomboided 374]

Don't you just swap two phases on brushless motors

How do you run two brushless ESCs? 2 batteries, or wire them up in parallel somehow. Don't think I've ever seen a brushless ESC that can support dual cans.

[SteveU30 1011]

 

How do you run two brushless ESCs?  2 batteries, or wire them up in parallel somehow.  Don't think I've ever seen a brushless ESC that can support dual cans.

You can indeed either run 2 batteries (most people just strap the second battery lengthways to the top of the chassis although there have been custom chassis produced for the Wild Dagger series of cars to accommodate 2 batteries in the past) or run 1x high capacity battery in parallel.

You will need a receiver Y-splitter lead so that both ESCs receive a signal, all that needs to be done if using two batteries is to remove the red power wire from the receiver wire to one of the ESCs otherwise the receiver will be getting 14.4v/14.8v (7.2v/7.4v from each ESC)

[Vrdetailing 1241]

Please ... Voltages do not add up in parallel... Two bec will still give 5 or 6 volts... Not double...

The wire is cut because some bec don't like to be back fed ...

Two brushless motors have no timing issues if one is reversed... You are just swapping a phase

Remember new people trust what we say

[SteveU30 1011]

Apologies for the brain fart there, note to self - don't give electrical advice after having had a few drinks!

[Vrdetailing 1241]

I do most of my RC painting with a beer in hand lol