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Posted

I have tried a drift car a few times on a wooden floor and tiled floor.

For me not to much fun.

I wondered how much work and what parts are need to change a drift spec tt01 back to a touring car ?

Is it just a case of tyres?

Thanks everyone.

Posted

Jang has built and driven a unique looking TT-01 Drift car. Maybe you can get some ideas from his built-up.

On my TT-01E, I'm just swapping the regular wheels to Tamiya drift wheels every now an then when I want to drift. But I haven't equipped the car with any other drift-specific hop-ups - only the usual stuff like ball bearings, CVA oil shocks and alloy drive shaft. I think a slightly more powerful motor like a Sport Tuned or 2500 kV brushless motor would help the car gaining more speed for better drifting. But at the time speaking, I'm still running the kit motor with the largest pinion and smallest spur gear combination for high top speed.

EDIT: Oh well, I think I misread your post. My bad!

Posted

I am new to rc, and I am building a tt02 touring car, and have been told just to put drift tyres on it to take it drifting, from what I have been told it us mainly the tyres, I believe some drift cars do not drive the wheels at the same speed. Ie back wheels drive faster than front wheels? Not sure on this but might be worth checking out

Posted

I swapped my HPI Sprint Flux from touring car regular to drift just by changing the tyres and fiddling with the geometry. It's since gotten a rear ball diff that's been locked pretty tight and a one way diff at the front to make it even more drift friendly.

My TT01 was the drift variant right out of the box, so came with some basic upgrades already, plus I bought a couple more. It never had any trick diffs. You can easily just throw a set of grip tyres on it and go all touring car.

With the TT01, the open diffs made it a little challenging to drift for a beginner (which I definitely am). Locking out the rear diff and getting some proper camber on the wheels to get the grip levels right is something that will make a real difference to the controllablility of the car. I didn't really enjoy drifting my TT01 (which is why I got the Sprint), but now I've played some more, I can see how it could be quite a capable machine with the right mods. Countersteer, which is what Gizo1 is talking about is about running the back wheels faster than the front to make it more like a rwd car but still retaining some of the control. It's not an essential mod at all (and is a pain to do on a chassis that's not natively supportive of it)

And trying drifting on a proper track (I went to Radshape near Brum) is something that's a joy - way better than kitchen drifting.

Posted

The drivetrain of the drift-spec TT-01 looks the same as the non-drift TT01, so you should be ok with just fitting regular tyres.

Take a look at the manuals and double-check;

TT-01

TT01 Drift

As far as I can see, both chassis use the same ring gear and bevel (centre shaft to diffs) and the same spur/pinion combination; 19/61

The drift spec chassis seems to be more adjustable than the basic version, but that won't hurt.

Posted

Running a Ball Diff in the rear (or geared diff with thick grease, Tamiya AW grease is good) and running an almost dry diff up front (usualy run some light damper oil on the diff gears) helps alot with drifting. Makes the car very RWD like apart from power on traction when needed.

But a standard TT01 drift and a standard TT01, difference should only be tires as stated earlier. Depends what or if the car is 2nd hand and what the previous owner has done to the diffs. Diffs IMO make a bigger difference than tyres depending on surface.

James

:)

Posted

A loose diff on a high grip surface causes the car to spin out when, during a drift, a wheel decides to stop due to grip. Usually the front inner wheel does that, at which the car starts spinning

On ball diffs I just tighten them a little; on gear diffs pack with at least 100k oil

Tires are very important because you have to choose them depending on surface, to get the optimum amount of grip (or lack of it). Otherwise you will not have fun, neither a car that slides out of control nor one that you have to push hard to break grip is wanted

You should have at least two sets of tires (harder and softer) because even if you stick to one drift spot, if it's outdoors, grip will vary greatly with temperature

Posted

I think the topic starter wanted to go racing with his TT01, not drifting?

Anyway, a TT01-D or TT01E Drift is just a TT01 with some hopups and 'drift' tires*. If you build it following the manual, all you have to do to take it racing is swap the tires to racing tires and maybe switch the front and rear springs, as the TT01 drift kits have harder springs in the back and softer in the front (blue and red) normally, but for racing it is better to have it the other way around.
The most common trick to get it to drift better is locking the diffs. If you have already locked the diffs, you are better off opening them up again for racing.

*I put drift in captions, as the tires included in the TT01 drift kits are not exactly drift tires. They are terrible.

If anyone wants more in-depth info on drifting, let me know. I compete on a worlds level in RC drifting. I drive the Dutch, French and English national championships, the Open European championship and last year I was in Japan also for the Worlds.

  • Like 1
Posted

Try spinning one tire on the front or rear axle and see if the opposite tire turns in the same direction. If so, then somebody locked the diffs and you will want to undo that for racing. I've seen an extra bevel gear wedged inside the diff, or blue tack or heavy grease or even hot glue. Just reverse whatever was done back to original open spec.

If your diffs are open, change to the tires everyone else is using and go racing! Gearing, shock oil, spring stiffness, etc. - all of that will come with experience as you race and decide what you want to change to suit your track and driving style.

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