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Jamesssb

Tamiya new build willy's wheeler kit

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I agree that the current price of the tamiya kits is way too high in price.

I actually work in a model shop just outside Epsom and we sell all RC stuff inc tamiya kits.

The price you pay on average for a complete tamiya car is way more than a good pre made one which has a better spec and also is brushless.

Tamiya I'm afraid have been out priced and have not moved with the times.

James.

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Hi all,

I managed to get some building done tonight, the motor assembly bolts to the chassis and pivots on the gearbox which is different from the normal setups seen today.

I hope the pictures are doing this justice, I'm having fun building it.

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I then started to build the gearbox But I got the cast aliminume parts from the blister pack and thought they did not look great.

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So I took them and put them in my lathe and polished them up. It did not take long with auto sol, I think they look amazing now.

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Now that the 2 gearbox sides are ready, I can now build up the gearbox, it is strange that the diff gears looks the same as the clodbuster ones lol.

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All together.

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More to come.

Thanks

James.

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Bling B)

Nice lathe, can you turn balls on that?

You could make a decent copies of the cast aluminium parts before they brake.

They sometimes fall apart if abused ;)

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I have been thinkering with an idea to convert the chassis to 12mm hex but havent gotten far yet.

(unimat Sl is to small :unsure: )

M38%2520rear%2520joint.png

front is easier

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Great idea you have there. I possibly could turn them up but iv never done balls and it would be a pain I'm sure. Lol

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It's a bit hard to explain without a picture but I used an old wood chisel

blade and ground a half moon section out of the end. I then machined the

axle housing till just the 'ball' section was left, then I'd it with my

special wild Willy's balls cutter.:-)

The wood chisel metal cut the ally easy. I used machining

aluminium, (there's a name for it)

The tiny bearings I used in the axle were about $25 each

back then. They're probably $25/ 100 now from China.

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That rear suspension setup is very unconventional, with the motor mount pivoting with suspension movement. If you run your Wheeler, be careful as slop that develops in this whole system can lead to premature wear on the metal gears - no need to ask how I came to this :S

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That rear suspension setup is very unconventional, with the motor mount pivoting with suspension movement. If you run your Wheeler, be careful as slop that develops in this whole system can lead to premature wear on the metal gears - no need to ask how I came to this :S

Ok thanks for the info. Good to know 8-)

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I've just dismantled my old wheeler and I found it's got the old type plate without Quattro Rally on it. It's got the 2 idler gear axle holes and only has the 2 lower screw holes.

wheeler003_zps04a8624c.jpg

Did they ever have them?

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I've just dismantled my old wheeler and I found it's got the old type plate without Quattro Rally on it. It's got the 2 idler gear axle holes and only has the 2 lower screw holes. 

 

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Did they ever have them?

 

 

I'm not sure. Very strange.

Unless it was changed out by a previous owner.

James.

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Ok so u got the rest off the chassis built this morning.

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All assembled.

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Now onto the body and wheels.

So I'm thinking about this:

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But replacing the red with metallic blue and doing the wheels silver with bronze inserts.

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Your thoughts guys?

James.

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Nooooooooooo, do it box art.

Lol I was waiting for that.

Not going to happen!!!

Iv wet sanded the body and sanded the mould lines out.

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First dusting of the blue is on!!!!

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James.

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Those wheels should look killer! Liking the progress on the body so far!

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I'm going to go for silver and bronze on the wheels. It should look good. I'm going to be airbrushing them also as I can't seem to find the right bronze in a spray can.

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I agree - I wasn't sure when you first said metallic blue, but that shade really pops!

Can't wait to see it two-tone!

Jx

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Hi all.

I managed to get the blue done last night so it has had all night to harden up. Looks really good and has no gloss clear on yet!

Please excuse the poor light, took the picture late last night when the heavens opened in London!!

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So this morning I Managed to mask up the blue ready for the light grey, the weather has been really bad so I have been held back with painting but managed to get most off it done.

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After an hour I then sprayed it with tamiya Matt clear.

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Then I left it another hour and de masked it.

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So I'm going to give the body a day to harden up and then I will re mask off the grey parts and then gloss clear the metallic blue for its final top coat.

I'm hoping this will make it slightly brighter and will also protect the paint.

James.

  • Like 4

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Hi all, I have done some more tonight,

First off I have re masked the body and sprayed clear gloss lacquer. The blue has now really popped!!

Before

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After

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I'm really pleased but I am going to wet sand it and polish it as there are a few spots in it.

If I need to I will re spray it. After the masking was taken off.

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Also I have sprayed the wheels.

First off I used tamiya grey primer.

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Then I used the airbrush and painstakingly

Sprayed the wheels with bronze. I have done them in one colour as I was unsure the silver would look good. I'm glad I did as the 2 colours would have been too much in my opinion.

I then gloss lacquered them also.

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The wheels look really good, will get more pictures when there dry.

I could not wait, teaser! Haha.

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James.

  • Like 2

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Nice work dude. Styrene bodies are so much better to work with than lexan for detail stuff I think.

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A bit too late, for 2 tone paint job i tend to use one dark and one light tone paint for even more contrast and paint the wheels same as the upper body color. I did a similar paint job for XC / CC using metallic blue with charcoal grey at the bottom.

Enjoyed your build and your paint works, but i am not sure i will run it or really run it.

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