ReRe Frog dog bones

[Zman05 0]

While building Frog based Scorcher I opted to upgrade the drive shafts to the dog bones from the rede. I ordered them on ebay and they arrived in a sealed bag but not a Tamiya bad. After I installed them my rear suspension binds. I but the originals back in and everything works fine just as it does with no dog bones in but once I put them in it binds. It is so bad that without the shock to push it back it the rear arm will stay up. It appears as these might be too long. Can somebody measure them for me. Thanks for your help.

[HunterZero 76]

Pic? I think they are around 36mm. They may have been pulled from a complete kit, if they didn't come in a spare parts bag with Tamiya header. They should not bind, if anything they can pop out when the rear arms are at full droop.

Did you use O-rings as specified in the Frog re-release manual, or foam spacers?

- James

[jeekelemental 528]

The bag you've bought includes outdrives?

[Zman05 0]

Yeah the bag I purchased included the outdrives, axles and dog bones. Everything seems smooth at first however once the rear arm is pushed upward or lowered till the dog bone is level that is where the problem is and hence why I believe they might be to long. End to end mine are 41 mm. I'm using the o-rings that came with them. Side note though this problem happens with or without the o-rings.

[GregM 1109]

What's their measurement from pin-to-pin?

[Zman05 0]

Pin to pin is 35mm

[GregM 1109]

Please have a look at the re-release Frog manual to see how the new driveshafts, axles and gearbox joints are assembled between gearbox and rear arms.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-kits-30/off-road-buggies-36450/rc-the-frog-58354

If you compare this with your vintage Frog, you may be able to see why the driveshafts are binding.

35mm pin-to-pin should be in line with the 36mm length HunterZero mentioned - assuming he cited the pin-to-pin length, too.

[HunterZero 76]

35mm pin-to-pin should be in line with the 36mm length HunterZero mentioned - assuming he cited the pin-to-pin length, too.

Yes, 36mm is pin to pin. 41mm for total length sounds about right too.

You need the O-rings in the joint shaft cups as per the manual to keep the dogbone in place throughout the suspension travel. If it drifts out of place, it can bind. The original Frog suspension arms are made of a stiffer plastic than the re-re arms, maybe replace the O-rings with white or red foam grommets that have more give?

[Zman05 0]

Ok guys turns out I had an extra o-ring in the output shaft. On a side note in the process of taking apart the gearbox trying to fix this I noticed that I had placed my large bevel gears on the incorrect side of the diff according to the manual step 8. Bevel gear that goes into diff goes on the flat side as apposed to the side you place the small bevel gears in. However if I build it in this manner it sits too high on the side plate causing the diff to rub the black center piece and therefor I cannot assemble the rest of the gearbox.

[taliesin 260]

Technically, should we call them Frog Bones? Just sayin'.

[HunterZero 76]

Ok guys turns out I had an extra o-ring in the output shaft. On a side note in the process of taking apart the gearbox trying to fix this I noticed that I had placed my large bevel gears on the incorrect side of the diff according to the manual step 8. Bevel gear that goes into diff goes on the flat side as apposed to the side you place the small bevel gears in. However if I build it in this manner it sits too high on the side plate causing the diff to rub the black center piece and therefor I cannot assemble the rest of the gearbox.

The large bevel gear that goes into the diff sits on the right side of the gearbox. Make sure you start assembling on the right gearbox plate (marked "R"), the B2 bearing support part is correct, and 1150 bearing is properly pushed into it and the locating peg on the bearing support is aligned with the slot in the hole in the gearbox side plate.

- J

[Zman05 0]

Hunter,

I've double checked all of those things the only thing that is off is which way the diff itself is facing. This is the 6th Frog I've built and this the only one I've had any problems with. I've even taken apart my vintage runner to double check and it is just like the instructions. It's just weird.

[WillyChang 1814]

It's not unknown that some drive cups aren't as 'deep' as others, quick Dremel job lets bonend ball sit deeper

[HunterZero 76]

Pics?

[Zman05 0]

Sorry Hunter haven't had time to take it apart again. Right now the gearbox is very smooth with no binding. Again this is only with the main diff gear mounted backwards. If you use the link Greg posted and look at the manual it's Page 6 Step 8 that i'm speaking of. In the manual it shows the main diff with the smaller bevel gears facing up if I build mine this way there is no way I can complete building the gear box as the black center no longer fits flush against the side plate.