Jump to content
Pyrotech_

Blitzer Beetle with tribute to the Monster Beetle

Recommended Posts

Hello, and greetings from Norway!

I've picked up a Blitzer Beetle kit (2011), and I want to build it with tribute to the classic "Monster Beetle" from 1986.

I found the Monster Beetle in bad shape in my parents basement this summer, and although I want to restore it some day, I wanted to build my own buggy first.

So: I want to build the Blitzer Beetle with several elements from the Monster Beetle.

Front bumper, reard guard and lights are ordered from ebay, and wheels have arrived already.

My question is: How will the stock setup in the Blitzer handle these wheels? (see attached photo).

Should I get a different piniongear? Or will it hold up just fine?

Also wondering about the steering... Will it be too much too handle?

Any input is appreciated.

post-43243-0-79394800-1409217901_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, probably your Blitzer will have some difficult with these huge tires.

The thing you must do is to use a smaller pinion gear.

This means a series of problems.

- Blitzer Beetle can mount smaller pinion gears than 13T

- Calculation of the correct gear ratio.

- Find a smaller pinion.

- Wearing of the axles.

To solve the first issue you need some model skills. There are motor adaptator all around on eBay for the Monster Beetle or the Clod Buster for example. You can adapt one of them.

The second issue is not a big issue,you need some mathematic skills. Count theteeth of all gears, then measure the diameter and the circumference of both tires. Calculate the original gear ratio included the wheel and tires and the new one and choose your pinion gear.

To find a smaller pinion there are many companies that do steel pinon gears for Tamiya, one of them is RRP, another one is Carson.

If you solve all these problems you now must find some beafier half shafts or CVDs for your Monter Blitzer Beetle because bigger wheels means hagher wear. I suggest also to to replace all srews with metal metric 3mm screws with nylon nuts, to switch to bigger, longer and better dampers, better if in aluminum, to reinforce damper towers and to add some brace on the chassis.

Monster Bitzer is a nice challenge, good work.

Max

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good advice on the driveshafts and damper tower / chassis braces.

As you said, the smallest pinion gear choice on the Blitzer chassis is 13T metric module 0.8. Smaller pinions would need modifications on the gearbox. 10T mod 0.8 would be ideal for Monster Beetle sized wheels + tires.

Another tire combo that could just get away fine with 13T are the Wild Willy II/Mad Bull wheels + tires, due to slightly smaller overall diameter. They have less grip, which is bad for uphill running, but good on the other hand for preventing high COG grip rolls on gravel and tarmac.

Why alloy dampers at all, when the Tamiya CVA plastic oil dampers work fine and even better than cheap alloy dampers (Ansmann, Absima)?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll be interested to see how you mount the front bumper - I've been wondering how to improve the bumper on my Stadium Thunder, and it doesn't look like anything except stock will fit?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Because I said "longer and better (than CVA) dampers, better if in aluminum" ^_^;)

Max

Why alloy dampers at all, when the Tamiya CVA plastic oil dampers work fine and even better than cheap alloy dampers (Ansmann, Absima)?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So you're speaking of TRF dampers, right? :) Sounds like expensive overkill to me, but I leave that open for discussion.

I'm not sure if longer dampers than stock are useful on the Blitzer chassis. How about camber angles/bumpsteer at front (given that the front steering would be already modded) as well as driveshaft efficiency and binding in the rear through longer dampers? Since I've experienced this problems on other chassis types, I assume this can happen on the Blitzer as well. Custom damper towers would be a need for mounting extra-long dampers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for your replies :)

Sounds like this is going to be alot more work than I had planned :P

As for the front bumper, I haven't received it yet, so I still don't know how I will fit it. Hopefully I will find a solution that doesn't mean compromising the chassis too much.

As for the tires vs. pinions, I might reconsider and go for the Wild Willy ones instead. I actually thought they were the same dimension as the MB tires, just without the spikes, so thanks for that input :)

Will try to post pictures and experiences along the way as I start building. Have a great day!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're welcome. :) What the WW2 tires lack in diameter and spikes, they make up with width and contact patch.

One thing just got into my mind: The front fenders might get in the way of these tires. So please check if your stock Blitzer tires overlap the fenders at full steering throw, and how much space is left between outer tire diameter and fender on full compression.

The Mad Bull/WW2 tire dimensions are 115mm (diameter) x 65mm (width). Please notice the front wheels are mounted on bearings, while the rears are mounted on hex adaptors.

EDIT: I just found this:

1256929111_badblitzerr7ren.jpg

Source: http://www.offroad-cult.org/Board/ezrun-9t-bl-set-t14546.html

From that picture, it seems like the front wheels fit just fine, but please doublecheck for yourself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice! Looks like I have to order some WWII wheels/tires then :)

Was hoping I could get some gold wheels to get the true MB feel, so glad I didn't order those at the same time as the tires.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are golden Lunchbox wheels from the Lunchbox Gold Edition, but beware:

Lunchbox wheels use the same tires as WW2/Mad Bull, but a different wheel design. This means not only their appearance and molding is different, but also their mounting on the rear (no hex fitment, but disc shaped adaptors for extra long axles) and different inner spokes at the front for a special (older angled) design of steering knuckles. They are far less adaptable to modern chassis than the WW2/Mad Bull wheels.

They won't fit the Blitzer Beetle unless you're planning major modifications.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have also found gold plated for WW2 wheels on ebay so that should be OK.

Yes, they should be fine. WR-02 chassis = Wild Willy 2 and similar models. Thanks, I didn't know any gold plated WR-02 wheels existed. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe WW2 and Mad Bull rims have a different offset than Blitzer Beetle rims. The car width will increase and this is good.

Max

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Didn't the XB madbull come out with chrome rims?, spray clear yellow over that to get the gold? Just a thought as I dont know if the WR02 chassis has hex all round or bearings (and I am too lazy to download the manual to check)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The XB Mad Bull wheels are the same as the WW2 ones. As you can see from the linked auction above, the WR-02 wheels have bearing fitment at front and hex fitment at the rear, just as the majority of Tamiya's 2WD off road cars.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome find! Those will go right at the rear of my Mad Bull!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lets say I can get a hold of those wheels/tires, and I want to run the car with Lipo batteries (2S)

What motor/esc/piniongear combo should I go for?

Do you guys also change the spurgears, or just the pinion?

I'm somewhat of a noob when it comes to drivetrains, so any tips are appreciated :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What motor/esc/piniongear combo should I go for?

13T mod 0.8 pinion, preferrably steel (e.g. Carson), as described here:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=74154&p=554595

Motor/ESC combo: You can safely use a 16.5 turns (2500 kV) brushless sensorless motor without having any overheating issues. On 2s LiPo, this makes the car shine without going mindless.

Make sure you use a true 540-sized brushless motor, not the 380-in-a-540-can-with-fins EZrun stuff. This will give you enough torque to overcome the high load of the big wheels, even on rough terrain. It will also reduce cogging on startup.

For LiPo battery questions in the Blitzer chassis, there are lots of threads that cover this topic in the electrics subforum of TC. You should have a read there. :) A high capacity 2s LiPo (around 5000 mAh) will dramatically lengthen the runtime with a brushless motor and introduce a good step up in speed.

Do you guys also change the spurgears, or just the pinion?

There's only the stock spur gear available for the Blitzer Beetle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

come on Tamiya...rerelease the MB soon!

Indeed.

While I wait, the build is slowly making progress: http://imgur.com/dArAGZA

Just need to mount the front bumper, rear guard, floodlights, and so on.

What do you guys think? Can you see the MB essence in this Blitzer yet?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Resurrecting old post as just stumbled across this whilst researching monster beetles and blitzer beetles.  Looks very interesting proposition. How did it turn out?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bump. Interested how this went. If I put in the sport tuned motor with same wheel setup should I change the pinion ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rather than messing with the pinion due to the larger tyres, you you also just get a motor with more torque and less rpm. And considering the fact that a Blitzer Beetle can handle a 19 turn motor with a Hobbywing ESC, I see no issues running a 25 or 27 turn motor with that ESC. From what I recall, the gear box out of the Falcon, Bear Hawk and Blitzer Beetle, is stronger than the original found in the Monster Beetle. The internals in the Blitz are basically the same as were later used in the Bush Devil and Super Blackfoot, and that was a much better setup than what was used in the Monster Beetle, Blackfoot and Mud Blaster. The drive cups and shafts will most likely hod up fine as well, but you should run ball bearings if not already doing so.

If I were doing what you're doing, I would use a brushless setup with a Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 BL ESC, an SSS 3650 7.5D motor and a 13 tooth pinion for a 5mm shaft.

 

As for shocks, stick with the CVA shocks. They might be plastic, but they are not bad at all. You'll need to spend a bit of a coin to upgrade them. Also note that if you install longer shocks in the rear, you might end up having issues due to too much drive shaft angle.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...