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cmarti

Anyone here is still upgrading the old F10 frame buggy?

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When it comes to re-selling, it should be noted - ripping these classics apart and forcing upgraded motors, electronics, suspension, etc into them, adds nothing to their re-sell value - and will probably reduce it. I've never had another collector write to me asking for a modified Bison F10. They all want original.

Hacking is fine - provided you are only doing it to keep the car for yourself. An original example in great condition (or of course a new example) will always be worth more than a hacked example. So keep that in mind if you think you might sell it later.

Some original spare parts were sold for the Bison F10 - including wheels and tyres. @WV001 have you looked on eBay? There have been some of these listed for sale, for weeks and weeks. Like all vintage parts, Nikko spares are valuable because not a huge amount of spares are left out there. Can't expect to get them for nothing, but they are available from time to time - particularly from sellers in places like Italy, where these Nikko models were very popular and even used to have TV commercials.

H.

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Hi. im new on here but thought id add a couple of pics of my old thunderbolt. Front was strenghened up as original bumper was broken. It has a 3950 kv brushless fitted and full bearings along with modified back suspension and re mounted shocks because casing was split on original mounts. goes like a rocket now cant wait t try it on a lipo sometime. Needs a bit of a clean after a bit of bashing but at least it gets used.

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On 4/3/2018 at 11:30 AM, WV001 said:

Hola, spacer.pngspacer.png
estoy buscando neumáticos y llantas traseras nuevas para mi bison F10. ¿Me pueden ayudar donde puedo comprar estos?
Busqué en Internet pero no lo encontré. ¿O puedo comprar aquí otros neumáticos que también encajen?
Ya había estado en contacto con algunas tiendas en línea pero sin resultado.
Aquí hay algunas fotos de los neumáticos
Gracias de antemano por ayudarme.

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Rims and complete wheels of Tamiya Hornet are compatible.

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Tires for Nikko Thunderbolt / Bison / Rhino: 
http://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2016/11/neumaticos-de-nikko-thunderbolt-bison.html

The rim is 50mm in diameter (1.9 "); the original tire is hard to get.
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One option is to put a crawler tire with foam insert. The tire is bonded with contact adhesive.
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The tire diameter is 100mm.

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Another option is to put the Tamiya Hornet rear tire. This has an internal hole of 36mm (1.5 "). If you cut with a cutter the inner edge of the tire (very careful !!), the operation of mounting it on the rim is easier:
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(In spanish lang. in http://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2020/01/cambio-de-motor-nikko-thunderbolt.html)

There is also the option to change the wheel. The Nikko car wheel adapter copied from Tamiya.

The Tamiya rear wheel (Hornet, Frog) can be attached to the Nikko adapter and also, the Nikko Thunderbolt wheel fits well to the Tamiya adapter. The Traxxas (The Cat) adapter is similar but I don't know how it fits well on Nikko or Tamiya wheels.
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If we want to use a wheel with a 12 mm hexagon, we have to use a long adapter that has a inner screw to fix the 5mm shaft of Nikko car.
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The picture shows the adaptor fixed to the shaft and a wheel with 0mm offset.

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The Nikko Thunderbolt was sold with 380 and 540 motors. The 540 motor version was a 35T or 45T motor: 12600 rpm at 7.4V and 1.3A no load current y the car has full proportional control electronics.

I have tried to put a 27T motor (Johnson "silvercan" motor of Tamiya) of 18,000 rpm and 1.6A no load current. The original electronics  do not overheat.

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The original electronics have a "H-bridge" of bipolar transistors: 2SA1129 (pnp) and 2SC2654 (npn). These transistors have a maximum current Ic = 7A and drive a peak of 15A.


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The collector-emitter saturation voltage of these transistors is Vce-sat = 0.3V at Ic = 3A or
Vce-sat = 0.6V at Ic = 5A, so the motor is powered between 0.6 or 1.2V less than the battery voltage.

The motor speed is lower than the same car with ESC (electronic speed controller) of Mosfet transistors.


In spanish lang. in http://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2020/01/cambio-de-motor-nikko-thunderbolt.html

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I've picked up two f10 frames cheaply on Ebay.

One is a 540 powered Thunderbolt, and the other is a Mighty Max. The Mighty Max is a beast, a lot more powerful electronics with much larger tires.

Still trying to complete both, the tires and bodies for the F10 are really hard to find. For the thunderbolt I think I'll go Hornet rears and try to keep it looking close enough to the original.

To have something I can drive I've put the thunderbolt frame on the Might Max with a turbo panther 2 wing. 

I'm debating fitting a 1/10 truck body to the mighty max, to give the Thunder Falcon look. 

 

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I've just picked up a Rhino body and front wheels, with a hornet rear tires so I'm hoping that I can make nice vintage build for the Thunderbolt body, which will turn it into a Rhino/Super Alex. (they are all the same car). Ideally I'd get a proper blue Thunderbolt body (I've got the frame and wing and nerf bars) but I've not seen any come up for less than the whole car cost me. This will be the older style PCB with the 4 x AA batteries for the electronics (pre BEC).


I'll then think about if I can fit some lights where the lamps should go, as real Nikko ones might be hard to get. I'm not sure of the Grasshopper ones fit, if anyone knows please chip in. There is a 3D printed option too, but again, I'm trying not to spend too much.

For the second F10 frame with the more modern electronics (Might Max/Thunder Falcon - 45km/h or so they say) I think I'm going to go for another body - so it looks a little like the Thunder Falcon/Scorpion but perhaps I'll swap with smaller tires. I'll pick up some 7 - 12 mm hex converter inserts and get something perhaps 90mm front and back. That will hopefully cut down on the over-gear issues too (and reduce motor heat and stress).

Any recommended bodies please to let me know, I think a Blackfoot would look nice, or a Hilux. I want something that looks 80s/90s. Obviously a Scorpion/Thunder Falcon body would be best, but bodies are rarer than the frames! 

 





 

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Well, I can confirm that with a lot of swearing the hornet tires will go onto the f10 rims.

They look very similar, and should function nicely. It's good to have a tire you can replace easily.

 

 

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Just finished restoring this Rhino. All original electronics and it works great.  

Very nice little car, I really now just need the parts to finish my other F10 but Thunderbolt/Bison bodies are really rare. 

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1 hour ago, Nikko85 said:

Just finished restoring this Rhino. All original electronics and it works great.  

Very nice little car, I really now just need the parts to finish my other F10 but Thunderbolt/Bison bodies are really rare. 

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Beautiful car

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Thanks, - it's a surprisingly nice runner too. 

It's not going to break any speed records, but for a 35 year old car it's working well, and a nice, quiet smooth gearbox too.

I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with a hornet or other body on these frames? 

The body is in ok condition (not by any means perfect) but I wouldn't want a big crash, as the plastic is quite brittle.

 

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Many thanks.

In the end I sold the Rhino I had (for a really low price to be honest, but one man's loss is another's bargain and I think the chap will be happy with it). They are really nice cars, but parts are hard to find, so better someone with a real childhood memory of the car can enjoy it. The gearbox of the other F10 car was put into the QD Clod.

This would have been the end of the story, but I have since purchased a Tandy Black Wolf buggy with lots of spares. They are similar to the F10 (parts interchangeable and bodies fit on both) but not exactly the same either. IT's amazing how many variants of the F10 buggy there are.

The car came with so many spares (body, wing, steering assembly, rear gearbox) that I was able to fashion two buggies with the spare parts of the F10, so now I've got

A stock Black Wolf (which will get "hobby grade" upgrade)

A Nikko F10/Black Wolf mash up, with Might Max circuit board, Might Max front wheels as rears and F10 chassis with Black wolf gearbox, which will go to a Nephew. 

I'll take some photos this evening. Best of all they are black!


 

 

 

 

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Finishing another of these this time a thunderbolt, but it's missing a half if the gear box. Do all the F10 type buggies have the exact same type? i.e. rhino, mighty max, thunderbolt.

 

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20 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

Finishing another of these this time a thunderbolt, but it's missing a half if the gear box. Do all the F10 type buggies have the exact same type? i.e. rhino, mighty max, thunderbolt.

 

Thunderbolt was sold with 380 motor or 540 motor (I think it is 540SH 45 turns). Rhino has the same geaxbox for a 540SH 27 turns motor.

I had with Rhino Aero and it also has the same gearbox.

There are other buggies (Nikko Dragon / Nikko Phoenix) that seem to have the same chassis and gearbox.
 

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Many thanks,

I'll keep looking - or I'll have to use a grasshopper gearbox instead. I don't suppose if anyone knows if the could swap in a grasshopper gearbox and use the gears of the F10, I know they are meant to be very similar, but I'm not sure how far that can go!

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I finished off these two. One is the Golden Arrow which I was able to keep stock (with bearings) with original electronics

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and the Nikko F10

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Circuit board was gone (and the circuit board from the other F10 models didn't fit) so I went for a Hobby Wing 1060 and modern servo. I do have the original controller in working order, so I will look out for a crystal receiver that can work well so I can use that, so it feels more period correct.  

Nice little cars! 

 

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I've put my F10 up for sale. Question, what the heck is up with Nikko collectors?

Almost every item I've sold I get messages on eBay asking to ship locally, go outside eBay, non payment or some other badwording hassle. 

Apart from my Nikkos I've never once been messaged with an off site purchase, bank transfer, or non payment through eBay. With these Nikkos it's about 50/50.

 

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redacted.

I think I may change my name here, as too many Nikko fans let the side down. Really depressing to have so many auctions ruined by bad faith eBayers, it has completely put me off the Nikko scene. 

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11 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

redacted.

I think I may change my name here, as too many Nikko fans let the side down. Really depressing to have so many auctions ruined by bad faith eBayers, it has completely put me off the Nikko scene. 

Your use name is fine and I am one that still hold on to my precious modded Nikko RC cars. I just need to get batteries for them. eBay is a crazy place, don't stress over that man. :)

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This thread has a lot of good info, as I snagged a Radio Shack Red Arrow last year for a rest-mod project. I picked it because I have one from 1992 that was a Christmas gift and still works but would like to preserve it as original. The Golden Arrow and Bison have slight differences like the dual rear shocks and bodies, but I think I can make a fun runner out of one with modern electronics and a few suspension tweaks. I recently found a site that has every Radio Shack catalog digitally uploaded and these frame buggies were advertised with a scorching 15.6 mph, so I'd say anything over 30-40 after modernizing will be pretty wild. Were all these old school buggies from Radio Shack and Nikko shared productions or only some?

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8 hours ago, kotaman said:

Were all these old school buggies from Radio Shack and Nikko shared productions or only some?

Radioshack is a dealer: it does not manufacture RC cars. Radioshack chose some RC car models from Nikko, Taiyo, Yonewaga and many unknown manufacturers from Taiwan / Hong Kong with exclusive bodies, stickers, colors... for Radioshack in the 80's and 90's

If you want to know what manufacturer made the RC car and year of manufacture, look for an FCC Id number on the sticker on the back of the transmitter. The first three characters are the manufacturer code:

    C6D  Nikko Electronics Toy Pte Ltd   Singapore
    CVT  Nikko Co Ltd  Japan      

   HS4  Nikko Electronics  Malaysia

 CP5  Taiyo Toy(s) PTE LTD (Radio Racer)    Singapore

 AEK    Taiyo Co., Ltd.  Japan 
  BXJ    Yonezawa Corporation  Japan
  F5J   Ka Wah Manufactory Lt. (Digitcon)   Macau - China 
 ATN    Sun Chung Precision Metal Industry Ltd   (Radcon) - Hong Kong 
 GLE     Suncon Toys Industry Ltd       Hong Kong
D4B      Robocom Co Inc.  - South Korea

 Examples:  
 Golden Arrow , 60-4080    Fcc id: CVT9BKSA-10   ----->  Nikko - Japan  (1989)
Black Phantom, 60-4103,   Fcc Id:  CVT60-4103,   ----->  Nikko - Japan 1992
 BUGGY SPECIAL TURBO 60-4069,   Fcc Id: GL57BUSA-14, ----> Takahashi Kogyo Co Ltd  - Japan  1987
 Turbo Super Concord Aero Buggy , 60-4036 ,   Fcc Id:  D4B60-4036 ---->  Robocom Co Inc.  - South Korea (1989)
 Red Arrow 60-4077   ,   Fcc Id: ATN7PP604077 ---->  Sun Chung - Radcon - Hong Kong (1988)
Frame Buggy , 60-4073,  Fcc Id: F5J4KK604073 , ----->  Ka Wah Manufactory Lt. - Macau - China - 1988 

radioshack-GoldenArrow-transmitter.jpg

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@korreka Yes, I was aware of Radio Shack only being a dealer, so I probably should have been more concise and asked who all or most of the manufacturers were besides Nikko in that era. Thank you for the details in your post!   

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On 3/6/2022 at 6:25 AM, cmarti said:

Your use name is fine and I am one that still hold on to my precious modded Nikko RC cars. I just need to get batteries for them. eBay is a crazy place, don't stress over that man. :)

No, I am done. Got someone wanting to return the item, because the battery won't connect to the car. It's a modern hobby grade conversion, he has sent me the attached. 
 

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I've tried to explain that most leads will fit, because mine did and it works and also, this is exactly how it is in the original,

Vintage-Nikko-Rhino-F10-Frame-Buggy-1-10

but he keeps saying it won't work and not as described. Oh yes, and because I drove it for 30 seconds to test it worked before posting and it's too dirty. Honest, I've sold so much on eBay, and pretty much everything has been smooth, but everytime I try and sell a Nikko it almost costs me more, as I get time wastes, bad faith buyers and now someone returning a car because they have no idea how to use it.
 

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