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Posted

At the end of my last post my Clod looked like this:

209AD4E8-CB31-4347-BAC5-7776C38BC726_zps

Being that I run this one, I wanted another body to prevent this original from getting damaged. Also it has a tendency to roll over with the raised suspension.

So I picked up a Super Clod Buster body set, wheel wideners from CPE, and CVD axles from RC4wd:

FCA66A08-0387-4010-AC67-A01B3DD14708_zps

RC4wd axles:

B13F77DD-4099-43CC-BBC6-5ACC4DF23BEE_zps

Gear box removed:

FF84C04D-9174-4523-B948-3D0B1EFA46D3_zps

Decided that with the gear box disassembled, I would reassemble it with hex bolt hardware.

C2CE648F-03E8-4452-9BBB-A3FBF1A11F78_zps

Stock axle vs. RC4wd CVD axle:

FD143CB5-9B48-4D08-A1AA-926693F5D6C5_zps

Gear box reassembled with new axles and hex hardware:

9C359C21-179F-4869-9795-6B87E6262FA6_zps

Reinstalling the gear box:

F38734D7-356A-4199-8ABC-FC536756A213_zps

Vehicle width before axles and wideners:

B63D46D5-1302-4FFF-9DF9-4433404F95E4_zps

And after wideners and axles:

F249038E-7B51-4875-BA52-2902D808C0C8_zps

Big difference! :)

And now onto the body...

I wanted to do something slightly different, and am very pleased with the outcome.

Started with the chrome bits:

4797052A-FE58-4056-9AEB-FF202D67C2C2_zps

And stripped them down with Tamiya polycarbonate cleaner:

12CCC71D-D685-45C4-B111-B38F00CDBA04_zps

Hit everything with Tamiya primer:

E3ED1887-5822-47A2-A3BD-8646070F6170_zps

F99E3D5D-FC34-42FC-BFE9-F2DE7B036E73_zps

For the body I chose Tamiya TS-32 Haze Grey, and for the other bits TS-6 Matte Black:

FD04514F-CA71-45A1-B610-0D3D81393C72_zps

For more originality I chose to use a GMC Suburban grille and GMC tailgate from CPE:

C596F659-62C3-410A-AE98-05C99A29F597_zps

C8879D5C-30F7-40ED-94A9-ECFEB8FA083B_zps

Side by side with the original body:

70C771F4-4AC4-4989-9792-EE172F5FFC27_zps

81E5CF6D-58F3-4B89-84A0-75492F97C926_zps

Body on for a first look:

8B4D9E81-9AD6-467E-8614-12363B77F3A5_zps

1D87F4EC-2F07-4F47-A03C-9D195C2D2A87_zps

A7CBA858-7C6A-414C-89AC-355D4EC79012_zps

Fender flares, mirrors, and clear windows:

574B7125-3EC0-4462-A714-C60DCF656C12_zps

Sand Scorcher driver painted:

CB0A6285-424C-4A78-9617-19AA9144487A_zps

Fitting the flares:

00281A39-C6F9-4C70-87F3-BDCC892B233D_zps

And securely fitted with hex hardware:

EE6B0E3B-F7F1-4F06-9B1B-26A0504E4187_zps

All together with decals applied:

33CB8D5D-714F-4644-8813-EB6786A57680_zps

BDDA5ADA-7ED5-40B7-A219-6E927A869F64_zps

Here you can spot the exhaust pipes poking out:

FC6EDD8D-F809-4B21-8B72-F9600962E253_zps

1D966804-2318-4CE4-ACEA-14539CE916DD_zps

7600A780-7254-4679-BE48-919A822CB202_zps

886E18C5-53A1-4770-9645-7151D400F1C2_zps

29D49A8C-6A52-4C7C-8F3B-F8B1121BFDE8_zps

A4D0B769-A951-46D7-B295-6CD04131D36E_zps

And that's it for now. I've added a few more decals since these pictures, and have ordered some alloy uprights (found some cracks in the original plastic ones).

Thanks for viewing!

  • Like 4
Posted

Looks awesome! Nice job on the rebuild! I love everything about it, apart from the lift kit, just looks a little tall or over square, but other than that, perfect! B)

Would be proud to have that in my collection.

  • Like 1
Posted

Now you must increase the lenght.

Max

I'm avoiding that because with the extended length, I won't be able to run the dual shocks at each wheel without fabricating some sort of custom brackets. It runs well as is with the wider stance, so I'm happy. For now ;)

Posted

You don't need to fabricate the brackets, you can simply use the existing ones and the dampers will be a little bit inclined. Or you can change the top mount that should be easier. The Clod wheelbase is short and when you lift it, as you did it, becomes shorter.

Anyway what about these CVDs? Can you make some building pictures of them?

Max

Posted

Max, 3rd and 6th pictures from the top show them. They are a direct replacement of the stock shafts. They come assembled, all you have to do is slide them in, a little tapping of the diff gear's splines (snug fit), and that's it. The hubs slide over the outer part of the shaft and are secured with a pin. The pin is kept in place with a rubber ring. If I didn't use the wideners, the original wheel flange would slide over the silver alloy hub. These hubs can be changed to 17mm to run different wheels.

Posted

Yes, I've already seen them and would like to see the assembly on the hub and the wheel adapter.

Thanks.

Max

Max, 3rd and 6th pictures from the top show them.

Posted

Looks amazing!!!

You have spent a pretty penny on those mods. I am also looking at most of them but it's the price of the parts plus postage that's criminal lol

  • Like 1
Posted

Most of the items came from CPE, and being that I'm in the states, shipping isn't bad at all.

Errr I hate you!!! Wish I were in the US sometimes and not in the UK lol.

  • Like 1
Posted

And vice versa for me James! Tamiya isn't at all popular here in the states like they were in the 80's. I go into hobby shops and mention Tamiya stuff and they look at me confused. Or say that I should buy a Traxxas. That's why I love eBay lol.

  • Like 1
Posted

And vice versa for me James! Tamiya isn't at all popular here in the states like they were in the 80's. I go into hobby shops and mention Tamiya stuff and they look at me confused. Or say that I should buy a Traxxas. That's why I love eBay lol.

I hear ya.

Posted

Glad I found TC for just that reason. I never liked hobby shops anyway. But in this new era of box stock 100mph cars... the internet is my only source of info

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm on board with you Emory. So happy that I found Tamiya Club, and even happier that the members here are kind, friendly, and helpful.

The hobby has changed so much in the last couple of decades..as you mentioned with all the box stock 100mph cars and RTR's. We live in an era of instant gratification and kids these days can't be bothered with building a kit. They want to open the box, and start running their new car immediately. No patience to even charge batteries lol.

That's one of the many reasons why I stick with Tamiya. Yes, they can be more expensive and inferior to some of the others. But the others take the hobby out of the RC hobby.

  • Like 1
Posted

I only come here and on RCMT (hope that's not a faux pax).

I enjoy rc for the fun of it. I like to create, to build.

I love and hate Traxxas. I love the technology and quality that they helped usher into the industry. But the instant gratification irritates me. Just watch a random video of a Clod. Some jerk will say what a piece of garbage it is and how his e maxx can outdo it.

Posted

Here's a pic with the remaining decals I chose to apply:

D0B76D63-9C3C-4FCC-B629-D437032D8B5A_zps

And as requested by Max, pics of the wideners and axles...

The CPE widener:

86AB64B3-8F1C-491A-8789-7A79B1FF8476_zps

Widener removed, exposing the RC4wd hub:

92CE4254-B39B-4451-867C-9C90172CBD6B_zps

Remove the rubber retaining ring and locking pin, and the outer portion of the CVD axle is exposed:

7AAB9FCB-9D3E-438A-AD62-955F72F4569D_zps

Original wheel adapter:

822F7AD8-58BE-4E3E-8EE5-A619D9D34F6F_zps

Remove the stock hub:

A5AD2E4E-058D-4775-AB36-C5FB104BF615_zps

And then it slides over the RC4wd hub:

BB8B3CF0-AEA4-46CE-A33B-3E227B0FFCDE_zps

It looks like this way you will still have a slightly wider stance, but I'm not sure. I never tried it this way.

Note that you will have to purchase four 5mm x 30mm bolts to attach the wheels when you use these wideners. The axles come with securing bolts of two different lengths, but neither are long enough for the CPE wideners. And, of course, the wideners do not come with hardware. I picked up the correct bolts from my local hobby shop, and they came in a pack of 5, from HPI.

Hope the pics help Max, let me know if you need more pics.

Posted

Hi, thank you very much, these pictures made the difference.

I immediately found a solution to have the Tamiya wheel nut instead of the screw.

Many thanks.

Max

Posted

Hi, thank you very much, these pictures made the difference.

I immediately found a solution to have the Tamiya wheel nut instead of the screw.

Many thanks.

Max

What do you plan to do? The axle's inner diameter is 5mm, pretty sure the Tamiya wheel nuts are smaller.

Posted

What do you plan to do? The axle's inner diameter is 5mm, pretty sure the Tamiya wheel nuts are smaller.

There M4 I think.

You could turn up a M5 to M4 adapter threaded stud but I don't see the point really, other than you would not have to thread lock the bolt each time as the m4 is a nylock nut.

J

  • Like 1

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