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Posted

But doing that takes away what makes nitro so special, the noise and the smell :)

James

:)

and the mess lol!

I had all the parts in the spares box so a cheap project ;) - I certainly wasn't going to buy an engine and all the ancillaries :o

Posted

I have decided I will try getting this running again.

I have ordered

1 litre of fuel

a glow plug

air filter

nitro cleaner

and a nitro starter kit, with the glow start heat unit.

Have also sent off for the Tg10 mk1 manual (I like hard copies for all my cars)

I will strip the car, clean and rebuild

For a FREE car this is costing some money lol

I have decided I will try getting this running again.

I have ordered

1 litre of fuel

a glow plug

air filter

nitro cleaner

and a nitro starter kit, with the glow start heat unit.

Have also sent off for the Tg10 mk1 manual (I like hard copies for all my cars)

I will strip the car, clean and rebuild

For a FREE car this is costing some money lol

too late...rcmart is having a sale for nito start up for US$1.99. less than 2 bucks.
you get a fuel bottle, glow starter, a charger for 120V, a flywheel wrench. check out their site for exact. Don't know the shipping cost will be. the sale ends on the 25th
ps did a great job in polishing the gem.
Posted

This car will Not be converted to brushless.

Part of this cars charm is having that engine sitting in the chassis

Also I have other cars that are designed for brushless that are faster than this.

If I replace the non standard exhaust with the standard kit one, will it make it much slower?

I only ask as I am not sure I will get a Subaru body to fit over the side exit exhaust

  • Like 1
Posted

I agree - the charm is the nitro, I only went electric for economic reasons, breathing life into a chassis that otherwise probably would still be sat in a pile of parts cars.

Can't wait to see some smoke from that chassis - pity we don't have smellyvision :(

Posted

The exhaust usually gives more top end. Acceleration will be the same. Although you have the 2 speed tranny so it should be pretty nippy as it is buddy. As long as the carb is set properly with the low and high end needles.

When i had my tg10 mk1 i had an uprated novarossi rs12 engine with tuned exhaust and the raybrig nsx body fitted perfectly .

James

:)

Posted

some bits have arrived

1litre of fuel

nitro starter kit

nitro cleaner

unfortunately I have got the wrong air cleaner, DOH, engine specific one now ordered

I don't have any time to tinker with it during the week, so have to wait till the weekend

Posted

Few more updates

Had a delivery of new subaru 1999 wheels

TG10 manual

and a wrc 02 finished body (I couldnt resist)

img30018_24092014191949_1.jpg

img30018_24092014191949_2.jpg

img30018_24092014191949_3.jpg

img30018_24092014191949_4.jpg

img30018_24092014191949_5.jpg

tyres are new, i found them in my stash of tamiya goodies

I havent found a 1999 body yet, this wrc 02 body looks good tho

The finished body was a little dearer than a clear one, but with cost of paint, it works out ok

Body, manual and wheels all came from modallbau-seidel

I will have to change the exhaust as the body bows out at the moment

  • Like 1
Posted

Tg10mk1 is based on a tb01, mk2 is based on a tt01, that's why they are so different. .

I've owned both the Mk1 and Mk2. They are considerably different.

The Mk2 is carbon copy off of a Kyosho FW04. It shares nothing with a TT01. It's a very balanced car and capable of being raced.

The Mk1 is as solid as a tank. I made the mistake of letting my friend drive it, in what I thought was a safe parking lot. He managed to get out of the parking lot and stop in the middle of a highway. Car was ran over my a Chevy Suburban. Broken parts were the body, body posts, all for wheels and Novarossi CX12. Chassis was otherwise perfectly straight.

Posted

Another Delivery today from tonys tamiya parts

Correct Air cleaner ;)

silicone pipe for exhaust

and a TM-4 muffler

img30018_25092014191636_1.jpg

img30018_25092014191636_2.jpg

img30018_25092014191636_3.jpg

The weekend should be fun as i have all the bits now to get this car sorted.

The tg 10 manual has a leaflet booklet in, that gives full information of the FS12LT engine.

I will follow the tips for engine break in, should re oil the engine properley

As i said before this FREE car is costing me money :rolleyes:

  • Like 1
Posted

Good news.

Filled the tank with new 25% nitro

wound the needle fully in then backed it off 3 turns (as per Tamiya instructions)

fitted glow plug igniter

pulled on the pull cord

and

She runs :)

BUT

After it had got through nearly half a tank of fuel it stopped

(and no I wasn't revving it, just letting it idle.)

On inspection, the engine is now seized :(

The fly wheel doesn't move.

The oil residue that came out of the exhaust is a brownish rusty colour

So I think one of the bearings was on its last legs

Any advice greatly received, as after buying the body, fuel etc I am at a loss

Posted

Update,

as the engine would not turn over, I thought I had nothing to lose by taking it apart. :ph34r:

The bearings are not seized, the piston was stuck at the top of the liner.

after a little gentle persuasion the piston came free.

Using some fine wet/ dry paper I have smoothed out the liner so the piston now travels the full height of the liner.

reassembled the motor and tried to get it running,,,,, wouldn't run :huh:

took it back apart and turned the piston 180 degrees ( hole in the side of piston needs to line up with exhaust side of engine)

Engine now runs :) :) :)

Anyone know how to link a small vid clip from my iphone?

Also need to learn how to tune a nitro now.

why doesn't Tamiya club have a nitro section?

we have an all things electric, but nothing nitro.

I must admit there aren't that many nitro by tamiya

Posted

Biggest difference I found when tuning a nitro motor was getting the right heat range of glow plug.As far as I understand, it's like altering the ignition timing on a petrol engine.I got a selection of heat ranges and found a colder plug worked better, depends on engine size and nitro content etc.

http://www.osengines.com/glowplugs/

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the information on glow plugs.

I didn't realise the plug made that much of a difference.

The engine came with an A3 plug (hot) no6 on the chart

I think I buy a few plugs to see if it makes the engine run better

Posted

Biggest difference I found when tuning a nitro motor was getting the right heat range of glow plug.As far as I understand, it's like altering the ignition timing on a petrol engine.I got a selection of heat ranges and found a colder plug worked better, depends on engine size and nitro content etc.

http://www.osengines.com/glowplugs/

agree'd , they are known as temperature sensitive engines for a reason :) , cheaper engines in particular can have issues of the sleeve and cylinder over expanding at the top end around the burn space if too hot a plug is used as the oil gets burned too in the very fast explosion, the engine goes lean half way through a run due insufficient vacuum pulling enough essential ,cooling, oil thats mixed in the fuel( which evaporates in normal use and carries out the majority of the heat as an oil steam/vapour), .if your engine cuts a lot after a half a tank-ish chances are it has gone lean .

the OS engines tamiya used were fairly sturdy and reliable though.

;)

Posted

The last few discussions sure brought back the workings of a nitro engine. I would suggest visiting google, LHS that sells engine and even your local track or even flying club to milk their knowledge.

I recall even nitro fuel have different nitro % , which the higher the nitro % means lower luberican vice versa.

I think the easiest way to release a piston is remove the glow pug, unless the piston rod is damage or some other part that caused the piston to jam.

Posted

It's a whole different angle of RC ownership,but great once you can get a baseline set up.I quite like the noise and the smell/eye burning of Nitro (after all its nitric acid,and burns off to be CS gas). Not quite in the same eye watering league as the Top Fuel at Santa Pod though.Will be a bit of a pain sometimes,getting a baseline set up,but,as you have found so far,it's a learning curve.

Posted

agree'd , they are known as temperature sensitive engines for a reason :) , cheaper engines in particular can have issues of the sleeve and cylinder over expanding at the top end around the burn space if too hot a plug is used as the oil gets burned too in the very fast explosion, the engine goes lean half way through a run due insufficient vacuum pulling enough essential ,cooling, oil thats mixed in the fuel( which evaporates in normal use and carries out the majority of the heat as an oil steam/vapour), .if your engine cuts a lot after a half a tank-ish chances are it has gone lean .

the OS engines tamiya used were fairly sturdy and reliable though.

;)

This sounds like it explains why my TG10 Mk1 stalls after about 1/2 tank of fuel. Running it at idle, slightly rich, wheels up, no body. I thought it was an issue with the airtight seal of the fuel tank, exhaust or a fuel/air pipe issue, but it wasn't. I need to try another glow plug.

Glowplugs foul up very easily, they really are a consumable item for these cars, especially if the engine is breaking in or has a lot of crud built up in it from lack of maintenance.

What temp/type glowplug is best for the stock FS-12 engine that came with many of these TG10 Mk1 cars? I have the Ferrari 360 Daytona.

- James

Posted

Hi james, what colour is the base of the glow plug next to the element when you remove it , silver, goldish or a dark brown?

Posted

Concerning what plug for the FS12 engine.

I was advised to buy the OS no 8 medium plug, (by steve webb models Servo shop)

I will try one out at the weekend to see if it runs any better

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