M05 sloppy steering

[steelo 93]

Im noticing every time I run this car im having to adjust the trim. I think one of the issues is that I simply cannot get the steering servo/servo horn to fit on perpendicular to the servo. It's always either too far forward or back...I've tried 2 different servos with the same outcome. I have tried just adjusting the trim but every time I run this car the steering has changed somehow. I have double checked the linkage lengths and everything is to spec. Not sure how to fix this...I could just adjust the linkage length if the steering would remain consistent.

Im using the tamiya hd servo saver, 3racing steering posts and aluminum steering linkage. Thanks!

[GregM 1109]

What servos and which servo hubs do you use? Does the manual mentions setting up a toe-in angle for the front?

[Tamiya1/10 382]

Tamiya in general is not known for its percise handling, you get what you pay for, expect lots of slopps. We got under Tamiya spell is because of its packaging, clear instruction and cheap. Don't expect BMW handling at Hyundai price.

Have a TA02W with every opions and blings by Tamiya and GPM, cost a fortune, but still handles like aTA02, maybe is my driving skills. The DNA/engineering is just not there.

[alfagta 126]

hi , the m05 steering bell cranks can bind , try loosening the pivot screws BA2 a quarter turn and see if the steering centres more readily , its also worth fitting bearings to replace bushings BA19 and checking that step screws BA11 are not too tight , its all from step 10 in the manual , the servo horn being off centre shouldnt cause any issues other than a quick trim and should not be needing re-trimmed all the time , it sounds to me like one of the pivots is binding up the steering . once its all correct the m05 sould have precise and agile handling that runs true in a straight line . have fun

[steelo 93]

Hi, I did replace all of the bushings with ball bearings when I built the kit. I'm also using a digital Kyosho servo I pulled from my DBX. Front wheels are 2 degrees toe out per the instructions. I added about 1.5oz of weight under the receiver to see if balancing it helps it. So far the only difference I notice is that the rear doesn't spin out as easily while coasting into a turn.

I will maybe try loosening the pivot screws and see if that helps it find center easier.

Thanks =)

[steelo 93]

Tried loosening the steering a little and adding shims to the front axles. The car goes straighter but likes to wander which is really annoying. Does the toe out in the front cause this?

[Fruitfly01 596]

Toe in gives you better straight line stability but might also cause understeer. In RWD buggies it is often normal to have toe in at the rear and neutral or toe out at the front. I'm not sure if the applies to FWD cars.

Increasing the caster angle, if possible, can also help keep the wheels in a straight line. Once again, steering characteristics may be affected.

Torque steer can also be an issue with FWD cars. I have an FF02, and with a 23T brushed stock it veers off under power.

[Vrooom666 31]

Replace that **** servo saver with kimbourgh medium one item. dont get expenisve tamiya hi-torque. they are **** too. They are really bad enough i dont even touch them when i open the box. Replace it... you will notice the difference!

[steelo 93]

I have since removed the servo saver all together and added shims to the inside of the wheels to eliminate some of the slop. I will have to see if that makes the steering more precise. I know the servo saver is meant to protect the gears in the servo but since this servo is a cheap leftover and I have 2 more cheapies, I'm not terribly worried about it.

I have adjusted the adjustable spacers on the front and rear shocks to about a 2mm gap (per several references online) the rear though is drooping really badly and there isn't much ground clearance. I'm using 3Racing shocks with the silver kit springs in front and the 3Racing black springs in the back, 37.5wt Losi shock oil in the front and the supplied 3Racing oil in the back (not sure what the weight is)...Does this sound right?

[alfagta 126]

hi again ,, have you added any weight on the opposite side from the motor to balance the chassis? ,

the m05 v2 was produced to solve this very issue , it has its motor closer to the centre line , i have 45g fitted opposite the motor and the torque steer and brake wander vanished ,

you can also offset the battery to even things up, until this is done all the suspension tunning in the world wont help, the 3 racing shocks come with 25wt oil in them , way too soft , the 37.5 is better , but this all depends on running surface , there is no right and wrong single setting , just whats right or wrong for the driver and track ,

be aware that the low ride height suggested by so many is actually a very bad idea on anything other than purpose made carpet or tarmac tracks , the damper shoots through its travel as soon as you start turning , the tyres get pushed beyond there limits and understeer ensues ( chassis roll = grip!!!) , also if the car hits even a tiny bump while turning there is not enough suspension travel to absorbe it and the tyre must momentarily lose contact with the surface ,

its a simple formula , fit everything to the car, balance the chassis , test drive and adjust( a little at a time) on chosen surface with chosen tyres taking notes , the correct way to go will soon become apparent ,

have fun

[steelo 93]

Thank you my friend, that was very helpful =) I have added about 1.5oz to the side opposite of the motor (under the receiver) but the weather here in Lexington, KY hasn't been friendly enough to let me test it out yet.

I believe part of my issue now is getting the 3Racing shocks to function correctly. I kind of half-assed my shock build when I got them (I was too excited to run the car I think) and last night tore all 4 apart to rebuild them correctly...if you've never built shocks before, the directions they give you are simply atrocious. I had spacers where the seals should be and 2 seals on others...don't know if I was drunk or what I was thinking (or not thinking) when I was building them the first time...but I was quite upset at myself last night

I am having problems getting the air out though...the shocks have almost no rebound and squeak like crazy...

I'm sure once I get the car balanced and the shocks proper, it will handle quite a bit better =)

Thanks again!

[GregM 1109]

Thanks for letting us know about the issue with the oil dampers.

Do your 3racing shocks use a top cap seal ring, or a top cap seal diaphragm? The diaphragm style as used by Tamiya's CVA dampers and is easier to build right, from my point of view.

[steelo 93]

The 3Racing shocks use a cap seal diaphragm. I rebuilt them last night making sure there was no air in them and they are now much much better. Just wish the tiny black and white instructions were clearer, it was very difficult to distinguish the different seal/spacers.

What I did was filled the shocks to about 90% full, let them sit for a few minutes then pushed the piston in while topping them off with shock oil. I then carefully placed the diaphragm on it (with a little oil leaking out) and held it with my finger while slowly pulling the piston out. It created a vacuum which kept the diaphragm nice and sealed with no room for air. While holding the piston out, I screwed the cap back on (finger tight) easy breezy...no air and the shocks feel great!

[steelo 93]

With rebuilt shocks, removal of the servo saver and minimal droop, the car handes fantastic now. It does still wander a little bit, but not nearly as badly as before. Steering is much more precise and rear end doesn't slide around as badly....I'm happy with the handling now =) I think I'm done spending money on hop-ups...of course I say that now!

[GregM 1109]

That's great to hear. Cheers