Team Associated RC10 Team Worlds Edition build

[Zac_F83]

I splurged on this kit as it was on sale for nearly $100 off and I wanted a RC10 Classic (RE-RE gold pan) but couldn't justify the $350 kit. No tires, or electronics were included in this kit either. I got such a good deal on it though that I bought a Savox servo, F+R Pro-line tires, and a couple other small things at the same time and still got it all for under $250.

Hoping this to be my most in-depth build thus far, and as such in depth will be a slower build as I need to buy new wrenches here LOL.

Specs planned -

Pro-line Square Fuzzy soft compound rear tires (repro's of original class winning RC10 racing tires)

Pro-line 4 rib super soft compound front tires

Savox SC-0252MG servo (145oz/in torque)

Racer's Edge power cap

Team Associated SC700 ESC

Team Associated Reedy 3300kv brushless motor

Team Associated XP2G 2.4ghz radio

Sharing the 2S lipo from my SC10 SCT (5200mah 50C)

The box -

Open box -

Getting started -

[emory70]

My buddy got the itch to build an original rc10 shelf queen. Then the re re cars hit the market and he lost all interest. I bought his stash. Just waiting for him to find all the parts and send them.

Still remember the magazine ads with Jay Halsey and the "full size" rc10.

Good luck with the build

[Shodog]

Looks like it will be a nice build and eventual runner. Some kits came with a stealth top shaft that was made incorrectly causing the spur gear to rub the motor plate. Associated will send a new one if needed

[Zac_F83]

I did not know that! Thanks! I've also heard to get the P6565 trans case.. but likely won't - I can't see spending $30 for a case LOL

[matman]

I did not know that! Thanks! I've also heard to get the P6565 trans case.. but likely won't - I can't see spending $30 for a case LOL

I have raced mine for some time now & the gear box is fine , i'm sure it was a market strategy ? .

I came across the uni joint was a problem , the pin didn't line up .

This is the only thing i & mbtkym had as a problem .

[Zac_F83]

I see mine didn't have that issue - my car's issue is the ball dif took more tension than I what I consider safe and the dog bones are a tad short - on full extension the inner cross pin when facing up is about half way out of the dif cup - sorry for the hiatus - sadly I mostly assembled the rest of the kit in my typical want it done cause I have to many projects LOL - I also got the body painted in the box art style, and added a RC10 driver as well -

I installed all AE electronics - SC700BL ESC, Reedy 3300kv motor, AE servo, and XP2G 2.4 radio - only parts not AE are - (Pro-lines, 2S lipo, and steering rack bearings(Duratrax)

I'm going to decal it tonight and I'll post up some pics!

I went to a track a couple weeks ago (went down to my friends to sell him my SCX10) and while chilling at the track I met a guy from Clodtalk and ended up buying his uncles RC10B4.1 that came with many extra's - I plan to put a Tekin RS Gen2/10.5t setup in that as well, and got a new body/decal set for it to be done up in the classic RC10 (Orange box art)

AND currently in talks with a fella on Clodtalk about making a SCT sized 69 Charger to make a General Lee for my SC10

[matman]

Yes the dog bone are short , this is why we had to put the shims in . But it's

still short & i have never had a problem with coming out , till i remove one shim .

I put that shim back & have never had a problem again & i race mine .

Most are going to MRP dog bone/ uni joint set up , but you have to use different ,

wheels . Could have been a little longer of 2mm or more . O-well , it's a great car to race with .

We have got 6 of us now , running this .

[Zac_F83]

Here it is all done!

[Nobbi1977]

That is a nice looking car

[Zac_F83]

Bringing this back from the dead! Going to be a HUGE update!

Going to build my 1993 stealth chassis up to race in 17.5 spec racing this winter. Here is what I have to start, plus a few parts that are going to be donated from my way to expensive B4.1 build. So here is my overall plan going off a buggy I seen on here.. (RC10talk)

Will any parts from my B4 fit besides the shocks/wing mounts? Will a B4 slipper fit? Are there any lightweight parts? top shaft?

Blasted chassis - be either primered, carbon fiber wrapped bottom or powder coated an unknown color
Maybe milled as well
Stealth trans with Protek ceramic balls
Turbo Mirage body painted by me in a retro fashion
Protek titanium screw kit
AE RC10 aluminum screw kit
RPM rod ends
Lunsford turnbuckles
Avid aluminum servo mounts
Worlds suspension/steering
CVD's
Tekin RS/ Gen3 17.5 combo
JC Dirt Webs gold (spec tire)
Have AE white 2.2 wheels
Have a shorty 2s lipo v(Tunigy 4600)
Have Spectrum DX3 radio w/ Orange RX
Have Savox 1252 servo
Have B4 big bores

The build I plan to copy for the most part -

RC10 chassis and 2.2 wheels.. (all that I currently have)

My B4 I plan to part out kinda - (big bores not pictured but I do have them)

 

[Zac_F83]

Update 2.

I got the chassis sand blasted, and bought the Duplicolor blue anodized look paint LOL. Probably a waste of $20 with the "chrome" paint I had to buy but I think it turned out ok. I'll post some pics tomorrow after the clear dries.

Also today I bought Carbon fiber shock towers (rear one is short for B4 shocks), battery strap, and trans brace. All is 3mm thick except the strap which is 2mm

Next week, I'm buying most all black hard parts including a trans, Lusford buckles/RPM ends, Protek titanium screw kit, 2 AE aluminum screw kits, Avid B4 top shaft, Avid B4 Triad stock clutch, a new body, and RPM arms

Still looking for titanium hinge pins, and a ceramic bearing kit..

[Zac_F83]

Update 3.

Well bringing this back up! True story here - I actually never drove this buggy, traded it for a highly modified SCX10, and bought it back from him still unused about 6 months ago! I was planing to get it running with a old Reedy 19t spec motor, and all AE electronics BUT I decided I want to go in a different direction with my B4 17.5 stock buggy build (had $600 into it and needed another $400)..

SO instead of dump another $400 into the B4, I decided I had a RC10 chassis sitting around that I'd rather build.. well added up what it would cost to for the necessary parts to make a roller.. well I'm better off buying a new Worlds kit and save money at that point.

So I set out to start in on it- first by tearing it apart and come up with a few of the first mods which I have done -

Before getting started - considering tearing it apart haha

To late now..

Torn down, cleaned, and wrapped the front, chassis bottom, and guard of the motor plate in carbon fiber automotive wrap

First mod - cut the bottom out of the battery box

Fits great!

[Zac_F83]

Update 4.

Small update!

Found Lunsford titanium hinge pins on eBay, bought them, and the carbon fiber parts are set to show up Thursday or Friday..

Found out that the B4.1 uses the same rear bearing carrier spacing at the RC10. So I set out to fit a pair of B4 Team aluminum rear carriers on my RC10 - simply drilled the hinge pin hole with an 1/8" bit, then file fit the hinge pin..

Found out the hard way RC10 CVD's won't work at all, B4's are to long, but after some digging.. I found out B44 rear center CVD bones will work.. AE PN 9760 is rumored to be 61mm pin to pin, and stock B4's are 65mm pin to pin SO the 4mm shorter should work..

Also found out the stock camber turnbuckle will work as well in the outer holes on the World's bulkhead BUT to use the inner holes, you need another pair of front camber turnbuckles, which is the route I plan to go..  

[Zac_F83]

Update 5.

Well! HUGEish update! Got the Lunsford titanium hinge pins, and the RC Carbon Works carbon fiber parts! (Battery strap, trans brace, short rear shock tower, and wide front tower)

Also made my first Amain hobbies order -
Protek titanium screw kit
Protek 4-40x3/4" screws
Protek 3/32" ceramic dif balls
Lunsford titanium turnbuckles
(2) Lunsford 3x43mm turnbuckles (new rear camber)
Blue RPM rod ends
(2) 9760 AE CVD's
Avid B4 top shaft
B5M wing mounts (stock)
AE anodized blue 4-40 lock nuts
AE anodized blue 8-32 lock nuts
2539 Traxxas aluminum spacer set (2)

Also bit the bullet and bought Dhawk blue front arm mounts, and his steering rack..

I already mocked up the carbon fiber and it's PERFECT.. the big bore B4 shocks bolted right on, only had to swap the lower shock mounts to the RC10 worlds style, instead of the B4 style.

I decided since the bearings are brand new still, I'll just use them, this order will allow me to get it to a nice roller and/or running if I decide to use the Novak club/17.5 I have from my B4 worlds pics up this weekend!

[Zac_F83]

Update 6 - mock up pics waiting for parts! this is the current status!

PICS!!!!

[Zac_F83]

MOAR PICS!!!

[Zac_F83]

Got the Dhawk aluminum front arm mounts, and steering rack. Must say I like them!!

Got an increase on the ole CC so I splurged and picked up a new ESC/Motor -

Turnigy TrackStar 80A ESC
Turnigy programming card
Turnigy TrackStar 17.5 Outlaw motor

All for get this... $100 shipped in the USA - same price as the Trinity motor I was planning to get.. hopefully this setup is competitive!

The rest of the parts will be ordered this week!

[Zac_F83]

Well I got a lot done, got the CVD issue figured out, got the rest of the parts orders except the body, and not only got it to a roller, but got it running last night. refined it today a little. Had to switch to B4 rear wheels to meet ROAR rules.

Weighed it twice now - just did this morning and was 1,538 grams with 5 pieces of 1/4oz lead, and my Worlds body and interior.

Changed a few things this morning since the last update and last night -

Tried both 9760 and 9911 CVD bone's and both did not work -
Cut down the battery strap to fit the ESC behind the battery
Fully mounted/wired the electronics
Machined down a new aluminum top shaft
Modified the Worlds kit rear axles
Modified a pair of B4.1 CVD bones to work
Shaved down the gear cover by the upper link to clear the RPM rod end
Cut down 2 long titanium cap head screws for the gear cover
Used cut ends of bolts for new battery strap studs
Cut and mounted a wing
Hollow set screw in the pinion
Added spacers to the steering servo link ball stud (rack side) and flipped the servo end ball stud around to the other side of the arm

Waiting for the body, and still need to glue the tires which I'm not looking forward to..

[Zac_F83]

[Zac_F83]

[Zac_F83]

I looked just now and there is enough room to move the inner camber ball stud up on the tower, I will likely go that route if the steering hitting becomes a problem at full droop.. I'm going to take it out and break it in on my road here today since it's dry out.

Small update -
Took a AE blue anodized 4-40 nyloc nut, and drilled and tapped it for 5-40 threads - to replace the steel nut it had on the end of the slipper clutch
Glued the tires up last night
Added a 3mm aluminum spacer and a 7/8" long titanium bolt to the bottom of the rear shocks to align them better
Added nitro fuel line to the bottoms of all the shocks to act as travel limiters
Got a final weigh in - it's heavyish!

So I think the new body with a decent paint job, personal transponder will do the trick to get it above weight, and only have to add weight for tuning purposes!

Weight was taken with a lighter B4.1 body, was 1,496 grams, and 2 1/4oz adhesive backed lead weights got it up to 1,508 grams! So will likely not add an interior ahaha

[Zac_F83]

Test drive was a failure. I think the Orange RX receiver is junk, I found out the hard way that as soon as you get more 3ft from the buggy the radio no longer works.. YIKES almost lost my fresh electronics to a pond! SO so much for a transponder.. going to buy a new Spectrum receiver and a large suit case to make a travel box out of!