Vacuum forming bodies

[Nobbi1977]

I have just got a mud blaster II, the body is the clear plastic not like the old BRAT bodies.

I am tempted to pour a mould off it and use the vacuum former at work to knock something out in a bit thicker plastic. I want a good basher body so detail is less important.

Has anyone tied this before?

[Wooders28]

Not used one for a while.

Try veg oil in the body first and then drain,pour in your modeling plaster slowly and try not to get bubbles , leave to dry, (I used to do overnight), drill holes (1mm or less) in any recess so the vacuum can pull it down.

You want the lexan / plastic as soft, but too much as it will bubble and burn, so a bit of trail and error.

There's a couple of vids on YouTube with homemade ones.

[Nobbi1977]

Not used one for a while.

Try veg oil in the body first and then drain,pour in your modeling plaster slowly and try not to get bubbles , leave to dry, (I used to do overnight), drill holes (1mm or less) in any recess so the vacuum can pull it down.

You want the lexan / plastic as soft, but too much as it will bubble and burn, so a bit of trail and error.

There's a couple of vids on YouTube with homemade ones.

Thanks, will get a bag of plaster and see. I like the idea of a pre coloured body and just use mirror sticker on the windows

[yogi-bear]

please post pics of what you get, as I am keen to try this as well. I have vac formed 3 mm PETG, while that would be too thick, we used just normal stove elements to heat it, heated until there was a droop in the material. I've also heard you can use talc powder instead of oil.

[Wooders28]

Never thought of using talc!

I tried vasiline first,but that left marks in the plaster and then the body.

[Mad Ax]

I had a lexan brat shell and thought it would be good for a basher. I had an original Mud Blaster and the ABS shell is one of the worst in Tamiya's lineup for absorbing damage, mine was demolished in very short order

My worry about using a thicker plastic is that it will be more brittle and break easier in a big crash, where lexan shells tend to bend instead of crack.

Will be interested to see your results though

[Nobbi1977]

I had a lexan brat shell and thought it would be good for a basher. I had an original Mud Blaster and the ABS shell is one of the worst in Tamiya's lineup for absorbing damage, mine was demolished in very short order

My worry about using a thicker plastic is that it will be more brittle and break easier in a big crash, where lexan shells tend to bend instead of crack.

Will be interested to see your results though

I had not thought about it like that. If I can get a buck done I can test a few shells and see. my driving is that bad I am sure i will got through a few.

[yogi-bear]

I'd suggest sticking to lexan (polycarbonate) and not PETG, and try maybe 2mm or even 3 mm. I doubt the extra thickness in the lexan will make it more prone to cracking, but it will make it stronger. Lexan is pretty tough, PETG not so, but it is a lot cheaper but PETG will be prone to shattering when it gives. An example of polycarbs strength, the chemistry dept I was in at uni use to have a testing machine for open days where you could bash a polycarb sheet that was mounted in a frame with a hammer to show its strength. You would be lucky to see the dents! However going thicker will mean that you will start to loose fine detail.

[emory70]

Thicker means less detail

[Nobbi1977]

I am not detail obsessed. Strong and self coloured would be good for me. I can print decals at work as well so can have fun playing

[Wooders28]

If you have the facility to form more bodies,then breakage becomes less of an issue,(depending on cost of plastic/lexan and paint).

Have fun making flares, louvres, scoops etc.