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Pintopower

My "Super Fly" Hornet Build Thread

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After endless aggressive driving and jumping, SuperFly has proven to be amazing. Now that I know the cantilever front end is staying, it is time to make it right! I modified the arm to accept ball bearings. This will dramatically reduce play and reduce friction, something that is very important with cantilevers. Everything is on order so I am waiting for the bits to come in.


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Great thread!

I am used to using architectural CAD software but wondered what programme you are using here.

Is it Solidworks? (I ask as I am toying with the idea of buying some new software tools as I like the structural analysis you have done here.

Really interesting post. Thanks for sharing :)

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Awesome work! BTW, I have a couple NIB Novak XRS laying around - if you need one.

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Great thread!

I am used to using architectural CAD software but wondered what programme you are using here.

Is it Solidworks? (I ask as I am toying with the idea of buying some new software tools as I like the structural analysis you have done here.

Really interesting post. Thanks for sharing :)

Thank you very much! I am using Creo (formery called Pro/ENGINEER). I used solidworks up until 2007 but I found its limitations on assembly size, performance and stability to not be up to my requirement. Creo was about the same price as SW so it was a good choice for me. I am glad you like the thread.!

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Awesome work! BTW, I have a couple NIB Novak XRS laying around - if you need one.

Thank you! I just might be interested. I did install as super rooster when a used XRS I installed just stopped working. I dont know what the deal with this car and XRS' is.

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So cool! Really enjoying your work.

Thank you. This has been fun. I need to post some of the installed upgrades for this. Also, I am working on a completely new rendition of the car. That will be a big project.

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Looking forward to seeing what the new rendition holds! Any hints as to what changes and improvements we'll be seeing?

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Here we go again. V3 is underway. V2, however is mature and will be worked on along side version 3.0 as V2 will retain some important elements of the Hornet that I will never get rid of. This will all make sense when I show what V3 will hold. In the mean time, to stew the pot, I will give you all an idea of what the plan is.



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On a side note, the bearing operated cantalevers are all done and I need to upload some images of those. On top of what I have promised are actual operational videos of the car running. I still have none! I really need to have someone record this.


I am going to break down and buy this:


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So some updated. The front cantilever is now bearing equipped:

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I also got those progressive rate shock setups you see on scalers. It allows the car soft rides over bumps but also soaks up landings. They are not a bad unit for $20 for 4.

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What has really surprised me is that the chassis is still in one piece. This is an original Hornet chassis that was cracked at both shock towers. I glued them back together and added little styrene braces but even with dozens of races and countless hard landings there are no signs of stress or cracks anywhere. I attribute this to the cage. The entire chassis feels stiff and there is no flexing anywhere.

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The speedo was upgraded for 2 reasons.

1. This car has made a Novak XRS explode and sent a Novak Rooster and a Novak XRS into thermal shutdown. I don't know how this is possible. Is weighs nothing and it is running a upgraded stock motor. All I can figure is I am pushing it too hard and the grip of the clay tires I run is too much for them. This one doesn't break a sweat.

2. The Pit Wizard allows me to set the throttle curve. I can finely detail acceleration, neutral and braking. These are all things that were useless on my RC10. Here however, with a light solid axle car, it made a world of difference.

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I also finally found rear shocks for the car that work! Zero 1:10 shock/spring combos work on a Hornet other than the stock ones. They are just too stiff, period. These are from a 1:16 car and the correct 80mm. They are soft and perform amazing. No leaks and again, $20 for 4 on ebay. No idea what car they are from, I just looked up 1:16 RC Car Shock. I did have to print out eyelets that mated the shock to the mount. They look like they at attached crooked but since I used some of the material I had at the office, it was too hard to pop in a ball to allow it to swivel. Instead, the cross section looks like an hour glass so it is allowed to swivel and not have any play. It isn't a great fix but it works.

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My shell has held up perfect. It is only 0.75mm thick but even thought it has been tossed around by cars way bigger show no cracking or stress. I love 3D printing. More to follow!
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I could have gone the rest of my life and NOT seen that photo, THANKS BEEF

Please I know you have that up in the garage.

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Nope, got my TAMIYA flag up in the garage and looking to make space for my HOTSHOT banner some day. so there :P

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So I think these photos are over due. No one has seen these before so I am excited to post them. This is V1 of "Super Fly".
Completed Car.
The slots on the hood are an homage to the original hornet:
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Even your electrical sockets are in awe!.

Don't know how I managed to miss it (been here forever it seems). Thread of the Board award stuff right there.

This is me trying to do something even remotely clever:

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I'm not sure, but I think this previous post ought to be in the FUNNIES forum post as well, but that is duplication I suppose. I haven't tried picking my nose with an instrument....yet.

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I'm not sure, but I think this previous post ought to be in the FUNNIES forum post as well, but that is duplication I suppose. I haven't tried picking my nose with an instrument....yet.

LOL, i didnt notice the outlets. Haha.

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I have had a lot of requests for the cantilever front end. Until now I have not had it available as the geometry at the mount to the shock tower wasn't done. Well finally it is updated.

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It is on the printer now and ill test fit it in the morning. Yay!

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I did it, finally. A battery door.

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Version one on the left, V2 on the right. I VERY quickly realized that i cant get it off. Oh yeah, some kind of pull tab. V3 is in process now. Sheesh. At least the battery will never get drug behind the car ever again.

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Very nice indeed! I like the inclusion of the Hornet logo.

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Very nice indeed! I like the inclusion of the Hornet logo.

Thank you!

I think it is done. 4 test prints later we have a perfect door:

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Putting on battery door:

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Newly added rear tab retains the door while post on right flexes the door:

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Snapped into place:

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This battery will never fall out again. Man that is nice. I can leave my roll of masking tape at home now. I am going to order some door from Shapeways now to confirm the flexibility of the strong and flexible plastic. This one is made here at the office and though I love the look it is VERY hard and too brittle for me to sell like this. Keep you posted.

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I have made a couple upgrades to the front suspension. I love the cantilever set up but on many of my hornets I do not want to drill all of those holes in the chassis. What I have done is made an A-Arm version that is a direct replacement to the stock arm. This allows you to use the stock pogo sticks or any of the vintage CRP shocks with metal tower and even the You-G shocks. This is also the exact same unit for the CW01 with 10mm offset per side:

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I really like this since I can add it to my hornet loaners super quick and easy. Here is the same one on a CW01:

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From here I also decided that my original a-arm design with a -10mm shock mount offset wasn't low enough. I decided to push it even lower. This version will fit a 60mm touring car shock which you can get super cheap and easy with a million spring choices. Best part is, no mods! 

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There is zero difference in stance from the stock and this version. Left is upgraded, right is untouched. 

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The final upgrade is actually a downgrade. The upper links on the hornet require you to cut a notch in the body so that the link will attach to the stock hopper body mounts or my adapter plate which gives better geometry. This is very important for performance driving or bashing as it provides better handling (within reason, this is a hornet after all) and durability. Problem is for my normally drivers that are restored, I do not want to cut the body. What I made is a plate that attaches to the hopper body mount and wiggles its way out of the body to provide a upper link mount. No cuts in the body! Problem is the upper link geometry is comprimised as the tire no longer stays as vertical as it would with the original mount. The new mount is also very thin, 1.5mm in some areas. Still, it is a tight fit around the chassis to use the chassis as structural support. 

See it poking out there:

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Here you see slight inconsistency in the suspension geometry.

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As opposed to the cantilever on Super Fly:

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The parts are on order so when they get in, let the jumping commence!

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I came back to this thread for more inspiration for my grasshopper build. Have you ever thought about putting those wheels on Shapeways? I think that would solve my wheel dilemma!

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