Kyosho HOR NSR500 1/8 motorcycle build

[ChrisRx718 4470]

Love the detail on the bike. Never really seen anything like this before, especially not the assembly process. Look forward to reading the next update...

[Wez-li 1790]

Incredibly detailed build thread mate. Superb work.

[StrokerBoy 772]

"The trees hold the forks onto the frame much like a full sized bike with a metal shaft and plastic bushes."

But compared to a real bike, the yokes are on back to front. I guess that's necessary for the gyro effect on this. Looks very odd though.

[mr crispy 2293]

Yeah I thought that at first. Wasn't sure if maybe a racing bike would be different but I suspect it's like that on the Kyosho bike as there isn't any solid link between the steering servo and the forks. The only direct input seems to be that tilting head stock, which of course on a real bike is a solid part of the frame. So it's my guess these forks need a trailing set up to follow where the headstock is pushing them.

Sounds strange at first but it means it should auto correct for bumps and undulations and you can't over steer so easily forcing the bike into a tank slapper. It also means it's the riders weight that does most of the steering work which is a lot like the real thing.

That's all guess work on my part, I hope it'll become more obvious once I start running the thing

[1Zook 10]

No, the steering is done using a similar technique to full size - counter steering. The servo kicks the front wheel out from under the bike thus it falls into the turn and steers around the curve. That's oversimplifying it but you get the idea. Kyosho Mk1 uses the same technique and the rider does not lean.

Your bike is nice but here's one of my Ducati built from an RGV HOR. Brushless and all the hop ups.

[mr crispy 2293]

Bit more progress today.

First off I skipped ahead a few sections and put the paddock stand together to make life a little easier. It's a simple design of two side pieces held with a centre brace.

The sides are held on with small self tapper screws. The stand supports the rear axle and holds the wheel off the ground keeping the bike upright.

The front fairing needs to be glued together.

I prefer liquid poly glue, apply it to both sides and then bring together.

The clear screen is held on with two bolts, this also helps hold the fairing halves together.

Then it's time to fit the body protector bars.

They fit under the fairing and are held in place when the panel is screwed down.

A suppose they could be removed once I'm confident enough with the handling. They do allow the bike to lean over nicely.

Fairings are bringing it together nicely.

The battery has a clip that holds it in place.

The compartment is 92mm long, 37mm wide and 18mm deep under the clip. It has a rounded profile and the manual suggests using mini 1600nimh batteries, but that was long before lipos became popular. Here's a link to a suitable nimh pack anyway: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=361073049108

Tempting to get that nimh as it should fit nicely with a little tweaking although I assume a Lipo will give better performance for the space available.

The lower fairing is a one piece mould and has this awkward sprue attachment that took some careful removal with a craft knife.

It then clips under the lower edges of the upper fairing. The completed bike.

Next up is the rider

[Shaggy39 43]

Awsome build thread. I had one of these back in about 2005 and used to go car park racing with a couple of mates. Some of the best laughs I've had with rc vehicle.

I'll be interested to see how it runs in stock spec as I don't think I ever tried that. As usual i got sucked into buying hop ups at the same time as kit so fitted them as I built it. A couple of mates didn't though so we had something to compare to.

The best upgrades we found in order of importance were;

1. Alloy gearbox and metal oval washers

2. Ballraced

3. the lightweight (or is it heavyweight) front wheel weight

This thread has made me want one again if only to reminisce....

[mr crispy 2293]

I would've thought slitting the antenna tubing along its length and fitting it over the bars would work. Can't see that plastic would slide any better than metal though, maybe it's more for protection?

I was wondering about gluing 1mm black plasticard pads onto the riders moulded knee sliders. They look like they would touch down and you're suppose to paint them black anyway. Giving them an extra layer of plastic should help and being black it won't show up the scrapes so much. I'll also know it's time to replace them once it wears through to the white plastic underneath Then I can just cut them off with a sharp knife and fit a new pad.

I really want to see how it performs stock so I can gauge the effect the upgrades make. From what I've read bearings, metal gear case and those oval washers are recommended so they'll be on the new year shopping list. I would like to replace the front forks too as the stock ones aren't as smooth as I'd like and they don't look very nice. Seems the whole shock assembly or even just the upgraded dampers both cost around £25.

I'll see how well the plastic gears last and the high grip tyres sound good. I'm tempted to get the alloy rear sprocket and brake disc set to improve the looks too, and that alloy swing arm is very tempting... Look at me, going on about shiny bling parts like a demented drifter That's not my usual style!

[mr crispy 2293]

We think alike mate I was wondering about drilling a hole in the sliders and fitting a flint from a cigarette lighter in it, might be enough to get sparks on Tarmac or concrete?

[Shaggy39 43]

Dorvack you owe me £100. Why? Well after reading your build thread I couldn't resist and ordered one from rc mart

[bromvw 744]

We think alike mate I was wondering about drilling a hole in the sliders and fitting a flint from a cigarette lighter in it, might be enough to get sparks on Tarmac or concrete?

That would work

[mr crispy 2293]

Dorvack you owe me £100. Why? Well after reading your build thread I couldn't resist and ordered one from rc mart

Has Dorvack got a build thread going too?

[mr crispy 2293]

Not had time to write up the build yet but here's a teaser of what I've been upto

[Shaggy39 43]

Sorry mr crispy for mistaking you for dorvack! It was all the excitement of ordering one!

[mr crispy 2293]

No worries mate, good luck with customs

Right onto the rider. You start by putting the head together, it's in two halfs much like a WW head but has black plastic fittings that hold the hexagonal rod that fits into the neck and runs down through his body and joins the rider mechanism on the seat.

You get a simple clear Perspex visor that's held on with side pods that push fit into the two black discs on the side of the helmet. I won't fit that until I've painted mine.

The face is a bit plain but I'll probably give him a smoked visor anyway.

The body is also in two halves. The shoulder joints have ball collars that you screw onto the black fittings.

Both shoulder joints fitted and the hex rod passes through the body and pushes into a black plastic part that rotates as the rider leans.

The limbs all go together the same way using black plastic cups that the brass ball collars push into. The spanner like parts hold the upper and lower arm sections together.

Another ball collar is fitted to the riders hand.

The upper and lower arm sections are then screwed together. Both arms done.

Legs go together in the same way.

Another ball collar fitted onto the riders foot.

Again they are screwed together with tiny self tappers.

Body and limbs looking a bit run over

The upper legs are push fitted onto the "hip" ball collars on the seat mechanism and a spring is strung between the legs which pulls them together.

The ball collars on the feet are push fitted into the cups on the foot pegs.

The arms are fitted in a similar way to the ball collars on the shoulders and the cups on the handle bars.

The back of the body will be push fitted onto the two post on the front body section.

All those ball collars allow quite a lot of smooth articulation.

Time for a quick electronics bench test.

I'm using a TEU101 ESC with its cover removed so it'll fit into the bike better, a FkySky 3ch receiver (3rd channel isn't used unless I want to shoehorn lights into there somewhere... racers would have a brake light I think?) and I've hooked up a standard 7.2 nimh racing pack until I get something that fits. I had to cut the plug off the motor wires, remove some insulation and push fit the cables into the Tamiya bullet plugs.

All went well and I confirmed the black negative motor wire should attach to the blue cable on the ESC. Rear wheel spun up nicely and runs surprising smooth for a drive train without any bearings yet. Steering works well and it's great to see the rider moving about. I'll add a few clips later.

For now I fitted the rear section of the body and it's pretty much done!

Doesn't look like I'll be getting much knee down action until I remove those protection bars... unless I crash!

Looks great lent right over though

[mr crispy 2293]

Few clips of the bench test. Drive train first.

And the steering/rider mechanism.

It's quite hypnotic to watch

So next up I need to cram all that gubbins into the bike somehow and get a battery that fits the compartment. I'm thinking I'll cut off the excess wiring and shorten the servo cables. Likewise I'll trim the ESC cables and just solder the motor banked directly to the ESC terminals. Actually I'm thinking I'll keep the thicker ESC cables as I might be running with Lipo so it'd be good to use the thicker wire.

[Nobbi1977 1793]

No need to worry about the 3rd channel, GP bikes do not have any lights. A brake light would give away your braking marker and give an advantage to your competition.

Great build, I am loving this :-)

[mr crispy 2293]

It's no question for me I'm going box art with this paint scheme. If I could find a Ducati fairing or a Kawasaki ZX7R I'd maybe be tempted to do a road bike, but I'd also need another rider figure to.

[bromvw 744]

What scale are these - as surely parts from a static kit could be used for the fairings ?

For example

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/maisto-1-8-ducati-moto-gp-model-69-nickyt-hayden-/251773715690

[mr crispy 2293]

These are suppose to be 1/8 but funny you mention that... I have a few left over bits in the loft from a 1/6 scale Kawasaki ZX7R model I had years ago. Stripped it down for kit bashing but I don't think I touched the fairing so that maybe intact. Looks like a spot of loft mining will be on the cards then

[mr crispy 2293]

Been fitting the electrics into the bike today, getting ready for the 1600mah 2S lipo I've ordered. Tried out a few ways and decided to use double sided sponge tape to fix the receiver and ESC upside down to the top of the compartment.

I've removed the lower fairing, battery tray and the motor for better access. I figured the bike won't be run in the wet so I haven't sealed the TEU101 as I thought I'd need to earlier, it'll aid cooling and I don't really see it being an issue. If it does I can always remove it and seal it later.

I drilled a 2mm hole and fed the aerial wire out the left hand side of the compartment and up under the rear seat fairing.

Here you can see how much excess wiring is involved.

So I've shortened the servo wire by cutting out a section and resoldering the cables. Pulling the pins out of the plug allows me to slip heat shrink over the joined areas.

The other ESC wires are folded up and held tight in a little heat shrink tubing.

I removed the motor wires, cut the ESC cables to length and soldered them onto the motor terminals. I also cut the battery cables and fitted a Deans connector.

Battery tray refitted and you can see the electrics fitted in place.

The lipo battery I've ordered should fit under the kits battery brace but I might replace it with a Velcro strap to hold the soft pack more securely. I'll also need to fit a low voltage buzzer there so a strap makes more sense. It's all covered with the lower fairing anyway.

Tested and the steering and motor works well. Just need that battery to take it for a test ride

[mr crispy 2293]

Battery arrived and it's as though it was made for this bike

I've got just enough space under the fairing to squeeze a low voltage buzzer to!

Typically I don't have enough space indoors to try it out and it's been drizzling all morning outside... Frustrated!

I have confirmed that there's no point keeping the on/off switch on the TEU101 as I don't have anywhere to mount it, it takes up space and access to the battery is so easy it'll be simpler to disconnect it rather than switch off. So am I right in thinking I can cut the switch block off and just solder the pos & neg wires together permanently?

[skip665 169]

I have confirmed that there's no point keeping the on/off switch on the TEU101 as I don't have anywhere to mount it, it takes up space and access the the battery is so easy it'll be simpler to disconnect it rather than switch off. So I'm I right in thinking I can cut the switch block off and just solder the pos & neg wires together permanently?

I have done this on my M05 racer on all the TEU models, 101, 104 and 105. I just solder-bridged the board and got rid of the wires completely.

[mr crispy 2293]

Thanks guys, thought I'd better check incase I fry the thing

[matman 1499]

Yer !! the only frying we want too see the the rear tyres .

Nice job there Mr Crispy .