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Posted

030.jpg

Compared to my original Sand Scorcher, the Super Champ is a much better runner, stock vs stock B)

Well, that's what Tamiya wanted to achieve with the Super Champ. The car looks and runs like a champ, but a 1982 Champ.

Anyway, that's one GORGEOUS example you have there! I always loved Super Champs in black. Awesome stuff!

Posted

Well, that's what Tamiya wanted to achieve with the Super Champ. The car looks and runs like a champ, but a 1982 Champ.

Anyway, that's one GORGEOUS example you have there! I always loved Super Champs in black. Awesome stuff!

Appreciate it :)

Another picture, ready for action, but stuck on the shelf :P

035-2.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

what do you do to reseal the shocks?

I'd like to top off the oil and put new seals in the shocks

New seals won't do. Nothing will, unfortunately.

You might as well want to leave the shock all dry :(

Posted

well, if my seals are completely rotten, won't it help a little?

anything else I could do? I remember seeing a coil sprung front suspension at some point.

Posted

Well, it's sad but true. I chose to keep all the shocks in my Champ dry.

I prefer to keep the vintage Tamiya oil in the original bottles than spread all over the freakin' shelf :(

Posted

no issues running them dry?

I just lubed a bit the shafts with a little white Tamiya grease, that's all. And to be honest, I frankly doubt the oil would make even the slightest difference when running it.

Posted

If you look close when you get to run the car you'll notice 90% of the rear suspension relies on what those baloon type of tires and those awful plastic zip ties do! I mean, it's sad but that's how it is.

And even like that the Champ runs better than the 1979 Scorcher because the Scorcher rear torsion bars were even worse. Too stiff, leaving virtually 0% chance for the rear dampers to actually do something!

Posted

so, I noticed one of the front wheels wasn't turning great, so I went to take off the ball joint on the other steering arm and the bolt snapped in the steering arm.

any suggestions on what to do?

drill it out (2mm? eek) or should I get a new steering arm?

Posted

ah, new front axle set - $3

problem solved.

Car is all wired up with a LiPo battery and an XL5 ESC. Runs great, just can't turn right now :(

I really need to find a new body though. Any suggestions? doesn't have to be a Super Champ.

Posted

so, the new front axles have 2.6mm nuts instead of 2mm nuts...

so now I need 2.6mm ball joints.

Can I just replace the ball joint ends or does the steering arm need to be replaced as well?

Looks like it's all new parts for the reissue:

50590 (4) BC3 - 4mm ball connector with 2mm screw (3 for servo saver, 1 for Servo)
40115 (2) BC4 - 4mm ball connector with 2.6mm screw (2 for axles)
10445563 (6) BC7 - 4mm ball joint (4 for steering arms, 2 for servo)
12500006 (3) BC8 - 2x54mm threaded shaft (2 for steering, 1 for servo)
12500030 (1) BD10 - 2x50mm threaded shaft (1 for servo instead of above if needed)
Posted

this kit worked great! Very positive engagement of the rose joints. almost no slop at all. I was also able to use one of my old steering arms to replace the bent servo arm that's been on there for 20 years.

  • 6 years later...
Posted

oh hey, I forgot how much work I did on this here.

Great. Now I don't have to go dig around to figure it out.

Sadly, I lost the Left Lower control arm in the dark in the leaves... trying to find a way to redo the entire front suspension
 

 

Posted

oh hey, I forgot how much work I did on this here.

Great. Now I don't have to go dig around to figure it out.

Sadly, I lost the Left Lower control arm in the dark in the leaves... trying to find a way to redo the entire front suspension
 

 

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