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Posted

I have a Unimog on order. They have taken the Led kit out to make the kit cheaper :-)

What hop-ups are essential to this build? I might not hit it straight away but want to start collecting parts now. Not sure how I will run it yet but I imagine slow Forrest type afternoons or very slow playing on the rock garden in front of my house.

I do not want to replace 99% of the parts with alloy but I do want to do the bits that make it last longer and perform noticeable better.

I am guessing the stock silver can is a bit fast so a 55t or something might be better?

Posted

The GPM aluminum steering kit and aluminum motor mount are both nice to have. Stroke extension links from Tamiya are pricey but they do offer increased suspension articulation. Be sure to also use a heatsink on the motor. I've already burnt up a silvercan on my CC01. The Tamiya 53399 heatsink fits great. I would also recommend beadlock wheels so you don't have to glue tires. I use High Lift tires mounted on Axial 1.9 beadlock wheels. Oh and ditch the stock pinion and replace it with a steel one.

For electronics I use the Quicrun 1060 waterproof esc, Traxxas 2056 digital waterproof servo and the receiver wrapped in a balloon. Lots of fun, rain or shine :) one last tip, use loctite on the propeller shaft grub screws. They always tend to loosen up even with threadlock so watch out for those screws :)

Posted

For general driving, the CC01 can be a lot of fun with nothing more than a steel pinion, a bearing kit and a ballraced steering rack (or a beefy servo to overcome the friction of the stock one).

However if you are heading offroad, the single greatest performance-enhancing hop-up is a good set of tyres, along with wheel weights if you so desire. The stock tyres look the part but are too hard for trail use. I use Fastrax Kongs, as they look good, grip well and don't cost the earth.

I would say that the second-biggest performance increase is to be gained by sorting out the articulation of the rear axle. I use the Junfac 4-link kit, which is expensive but excellent quality. There are cheaper options out there though, such as the GPM kit, and also the option to make your own should you feel so inclined.

It is quite fast on the stock motor, so a torquey high-turn crawler motor helps make things more realistic while increasing runtimes and decreasing temperatures. I run a 60t in mine. The torquier motor places more stress on the top gear cover, so it is a good idea to secure it with longer self-tappers, or drill through the tub and use long M3 bolts and nylocks. (I went for the former option and it has lasted well so far.)

It is very difficult to resist the urge to drive through water hazards, so a couple of balloons to waterproof the RX and ESC, and some grease to waterproof the servo might be worth acquiring. (Or you could fit your rig with factory-waterproofed items if budget permits.) I run a Futaba waterproof servo and a Spektrum waterproof RX, but the throttle profile of the non-waterproof TEU-101BK ESC suits the model so well that I have retained it, and put it in a balloon.

Posted

I've had a couple of CC01's and the best single upgrade I found for them is this...

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=261709807030

:D

But if you'll not willing to go that far, bearings, slower motor, steel 16T pinion and the bearing steering mod are essential. After that removing the front brick and replacing the rear links with the Junfac is well worth it.

I suspect something like this might follow.................

Posted

Thanks all. I will ball race it anyway and I think I will look at the steering options for the build and then upgrade other bits after a bit of use. I love the look of huge axel articulation but not sure I have the skill to use it

Posted

As above, they are quite fun straight out of the box but to make things a little more capable the bearings and tyres would be a priority. The stock tyres are so stiff they actually make quite good drifting tyres!

A nice cheap option is a set of KRT crawler tyres from the likes of Asiatees hobbies. These are often seen re-branded on eBay and other RC parts shops, but Asiatees has the cheapest available (even after international shipping - which is very good by the way).

I've got 3 CC01s in my stable now and love every one of them. The stock suspension is even quite good, the only let-down being the excessive flexibility of the lower links.

Just build it and enjoy, upgrade as you desire. It's much more fun that way than to start off with a bunch of hop-ups I think!

  • Like 1
Posted

You can throw a lot of time and money at a CC-01 - endless hop ups and home made tweaks . As said though just build it stock , see how you like it and go from there .

Tires - replace asap as the Tamiya ones are total pants .

Posted

Oops

I have an order with Asiatees. Steering bits, motor mount, servo mount and front and read shock mounts. Had to hold myself back from ordering the whole GPM catalogue.

Posted

Sounds good! I have all of those on my CC01, and I wouldn't say any were a waste of money.

Are you planning a servo winch? The CC01 tub lends itself very well to such an installation...

Posted

Sounds good! I have all of those on my CC01, and I wouldn't say any were a waste of money.

Are you planning a servo winch? The CC01 tub lends itself very well to such an installation...

I was not planning on buying the kit or the Hop-Ups so the answer is no.

Having said all that, tell me more about this winch.........

Posted

Oops

I have an order with Asiatees. Steering bits, motor mount, servo mount and front and read shock mounts. Had to hold myself back from ordering the whole GPM catalogue.

I would have left the front/rear shock mounts and get the 4-link instead.

Posted

Universals - particularly if you clip the C-Hubs to allow full steering lock. Shave the C-Hubs by removing the vertical outer fin on the back of the part (the one with the little nipple/bump on it) and also shave the front chassis brace just a bit to ease any steering rack binding. This gives greater steering but then the dogbones bind and tend to pop out. It's worth it to buy the universals if you do that, and the extra steering helps a LOT.

It also helps to use red oil and the red DT02 hop up springs because it really softens the shocks up and allows them to work more realistically. The stock kit springs are waaaay to stiff.

Steel pinion of course.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

I would have left the front/rear shock mounts and get the 4-link instead.

They were only a couple of quid and shiny :-)

Sure I will hop it up a bit more over time.

Posted

great start - but i agree that the 4 links are essential and by far the best single hop up you can do to the CC-01 in terms of improvement per £

Posted

Re the servo winch: the CC01 chassis dates back to the old mechanical speed controller days (you'll see people mention MSC like ESC on the forum) so it has mounts for a 2nd servo placement to moved the MSC arm. It's the bits on the right hand side of the tub, next to the gear case cover.

So what a few people do is rather than buy a working winch that fits on the front bumper, you can modify a standard servo or get a continuous rotaion servo and fit a cable reel onto it. Wind some black nylon cord around it and feed it through an antenna tube out to the front bumper and tie a hook on the end. Then all you need is a 3rd channel on your radio that can run the servo forwards or backwards and you're got yourself a proper winch for getting over obstacles, all controlled from your handset.

  • Like 1
Posted

Re the servo winch: the CC01 chassis dates back to the old mechanical speed controller days (you'll see people mention MSC like ESC on the forum) so it has mounts for a 2nd servo placement to moved the MSC arm. It's the bits on the right hand side of the tub, next to the gear case cover.

So what a few people do is rather than buy a working winch that fits on the front bumper, you can modify a standard servo or get a continuous rotaion servo and fit a cable reel onto it. Wind some black nylon cord around it and feed it through an antenna tube out to the front bumper and tie a hook on the end. Then all you need is a 3rd channel on your radio that can run the servo forwards or backwards and you're got yourself a proper winch for getting over obstacles, all controlled from your handset.

Now that sounds cool. Might be a project for well in he future though

Posted

The servo winch is a far better solution than one of the little bumper mounted jobs, cheaper and far stronger. I can thoroughly recommend it.

  • Like 1
Posted

The servo winch is a far better solution than one of the little bumper mounted jobs, cheaper and far stronger. I can thoroughly recommend it.

it also means you dont have to fit big daft bumpers that ruin the approach angle and you can chop the brick off while still being able to have a winch

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