burakol 462 Posted January 16, 2015 I just got my gf01 kit.... besides the servo and radio gear, i was wondering what else should i get myself prior to actually opening the kit and start the build... So far i already bought some ball bearings, the hop up for the servo and lighted shaft... and ofcourse the radio, servos and just a nimh battery for now.... i am still debating if i should try the cc01 oil damper from another forum seller or just buy a damper the is a sure fit... this truck will primarily be used for light bashing for my kids and me... thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted January 16, 2015 Steel pinion for the motor. I'd try running it with the kit damper oil before splurging on other weight oils, it's going to be basher rather than a racer after all. You'll also need some polycarbonate paint for the shell. On the rare occasions I build a new kit I usually drop all the separate parts bags into tubs so not to mix them up, so it might be necessary to eat 3 or 4 Chinese takeaways before starting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted January 17, 2015 For the paint, ill probably try using plastidip since i have a few cans leftover and see how it will hold up... worst case, i can just peel it off... talk about pinion pinion gears, i need to educate myself on it... and i fyou dont mind me asking, what size should i be buying? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted January 17, 2015 I would go for a steel pinion of the same size and pitch as the stock item. The idea isn't to change the gear ratio, only to make the geartrain stronger by replacing stock soft aluminium with aftermarket hard steel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IBIFTKH 1369 Posted January 17, 2015 This is the pinion you need - http://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-.6-pinion-18-teeth/rc-car-products/13757 Oil shocks are better than the kit pogo sticks, though they don't make a massive difference. You need something 65-70mm overall length (60-65mm eye-to-eye). Most shocks that length seem to be set up for on-road cars and the springs can be quite hard. If that's the case, use the kit springs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted January 17, 2015 Just sharing... hopefully i can start my son and get him interested... i told my wife that this was a hobby i wished i had done with my dad when i was young... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted January 18, 2015 I think i found an old FF damper that I will try to use... if i am not mistaken, the FF kit uses oil dampers??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted January 18, 2015 FF01? In that case, yes the stock dampers are oil filled mini CVAs. If set up for the FF01 they will have internal spacers that may need to be removed to make them long enough to work with your car, but once this is done they should do the trick nicely. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted January 19, 2015 Not really sure what generation as it was a donated parts car to our club.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted January 19, 2015 Day 1 pics. Finished the diffs and chasis... stopped on the part where we needed to open bag B. So amazing to see that my kids are so into it and helped me a lot... they followed my instructions for a good 30 mins or so before they started to be restless with the build... hopefully i can finish the build with them all the way.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted January 22, 2015 Will this pinion work for the gf01? Its 20t so im guseeing it will give me a little speed... just not sure about the strength of the brass material and if the pitch will work... http://m.ebay.com/itm/141141741173?_mwBanner=1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted March 22, 2020 Sorry to resurrect this old thread. So I still have the Gf01. Being hunkered at home, me and my son took the Gf01 out and started bashing around. My son is now 8 and he can control the truck better... I may have to give him his own eventually... Anyhow, while I was digging through stuff I have, I noticed I had an older but unused Kyosho Endoplasma 16t brushed motor. I tried to rig it and install it in the Gf01 using the stock TBLE02S esc. When I tried to run it, it didnt quite go as planned. The car was lurking, wont take off and will just stop. It's as if the power is cutting off. I am not sure if this is ESC related since I know the TBLE02S is only rated to handle up to 23t brushed motor, but I've read somewhere that he used a 12T motor on his and ran fine. Any idea on where I should start problem solving this? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7878 Posted March 22, 2020 6 hours ago, burakol said: Sorry to resurrect this old thread. So I still have the Gf01. Being hunkered at home, me and my son took the Gf01 out and started bashing around. My son is now 8 and he can control the truck better... I may have to give him his own eventually... Anyhow, while I was digging through stuff I have, I noticed I had an older but unused Kyosho Endoplasma 16t brushed motor. I tried to rig it and install it in the Gf01 using the stock TBLE02S esc. When I tried to run it, it didnt quite go as planned. The car was lurking, wont take off and will just stop. It's as if the power is cutting off. I am not sure if this is ESC related since I know the TBLE02S is only rated to handle up to 23t brushed motor, but I've read somewhere that he used a 12T motor on his and ran fine. Any idea on where I should start problem solving this? Thanks! That motor is way too much for the TBLE02S. Your confusion probably lies in the fact that in brushless mode it will happily run 13.5 turn motors, which is an entirely different thing. Stick the silver can back in for now. If you want to run your 16t motor, get a hobbywing 1060 esc and you will have no bother at all, as well as lipo compatibility. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TurnipJF 9192 Posted March 22, 2020 Alternatively, get a 13.5t Bluebottle brushless motor and run it with the TBLE-02. Depending on where you buy it it may be similarly priced if not cheaper than a 1060, and would give longer runtimes with less maintenance. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted March 22, 2020 Thank you. I wanted to try the 16t since I already have it with me so I might just buy a 1060esc. I did check the blue bottle 13.5 brushless motor, but maybe that would be for another time. I'm also just using NiMH battery so i dont think I will be maximizing the brushless motor potential unless I switch to LiPo. I'm assuming the internal drive gears and pinion will hold just fine? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThunderDragonCy 7878 Posted March 22, 2020 5 minutes ago, burakol said: Thank you. I wanted to try the 16t since I already have it with me so I might just buy a 1060esc. I did check the blue bottle 13.5 brushless motor, but maybe that would be for another time. I'm also just using NiMH battery so i dont think I will be maximizing the brushless motor potential unless I switch to LiPo. I'm assuming the internal drive gears and pinion will hold just fine? Should be good for a while. Its worth getting hardened or steel pinion to replace the kit one eventually. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted March 23, 2020 Thanks. I'm starting to have another itch to build a new project for my son...thinking of another GF01. It's been a while... or I/we may build a CC or a CR depending if I can convince the wifey... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted April 4, 2020 So, I noticed that my GF01 Cruiser always want to drift right. I tried so many times to re-center the wheels. I re-adjusted the servo horn making sure it is in neutral position, I re-aligned the steering turning the steering arms to where it appeared most centered to the eye... However, I still get the same result. Even when I try to adjust my steering alignment on my Radio, it the car still has the tendency to veer right. It also happens after the car wheelies... when the front two wheels touch the ground, it's as if it wont re-center itself. I also noticed that the lower king pin on the front right side does not tighten all the way. It still bites the plastic, but it wont tighten at all and just keeps turning. Could this be due to a weak servo, loose king pin, or misalignment somewhere? Thanks. I think u found the culprit. There is a crack on the top of the knuckle where the king pin screw hole is. I CA glued it, hopefully it will hold up for the time being; I didn't have any plastic epoxy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted July 27, 2020 I finally got to install the 16t Endoplasma motor!!! Whew!!! This is one kind of a beast... comparing it to the 13.5t brushless I tried last week, this is insane!!! I really have to adjust the trims just to get the front wheel on the ground... 5 years in the making and this GF01 finally came alive!!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakratfink 967 Posted August 11, 2020 On 7/27/2020 at 6:21 PM, burakol said: I finally got to install the 16t Endoplasma motor!!! Whew!!! This is one kind of a beast... comparing it to the 13.5t brushless I tried last week, this is insane!!! I really have to adjust the trims just to get the front wheel on the ground... 5 years in the making and this GF01 finally came alive!!! I have a 15T brushed Dynamite motor mated to a 1060 in my G6-01 chassis . It has to trnn6 wheels instead of 4 but It still rips 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted August 11, 2020 10 hours ago, Dakratfink said: I have a 15T brushed Dynamite motor mated to a 1060 in my G6-01 chassis . It has to trnn6 wheels instead of 4 but It still rips Im debating if I should use my other 16t on my Dynahead, or a 21.5t brushless... since it will be a trail/light crawl truck, i don't want it to go crazy on the speed but Im hoping those portal axles will help minimize the speed without losing much torque. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakratfink 967 Posted August 11, 2020 If the 21.5 brushless is sensored I would think knit will be good for crawling with the Precise control a sensored system provides Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakratfink 967 Posted August 11, 2020 My 15T brushed has enough torque to crawl, but with the Wide bumper and open diffs it’s not a crawler by any means Share this post Link to post Share on other sites