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I just got my gf01 kit.... besides the servo and radio gear, i was wondering what else should i get myself prior to actually opening the kit and start the build...

So far i already bought some ball bearings, the hop up for the servo and lighted shaft... and ofcourse the radio, servos and just a nimh battery for now.... i am still debating if i should try the cc01 oil damper from another forum seller or just buy a damper the is a sure fit... this truck will primarily be used for light bashing for my kids and me... thanks.

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Steel pinion for the motor. I'd try running it with the kit damper oil before splurging on other weight oils, it's going to be basher rather than a racer after all. You'll also need some polycarbonate paint for the shell.

On the rare occasions I build a new kit I usually drop all the separate parts bags into tubs so not to mix them up, so it might be necessary to eat 3 or 4 Chinese takeaways before starting. ;)

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For the paint, ill probably try using plastidip since i have a few cans leftover and see how it will hold up... worst case, i can just peel it off... talk about pinion pinion gears, i need to educate myself on it... and i fyou dont mind me asking, what size should i be buying?

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I would go for a steel pinion of the same size and pitch as the stock item. The idea isn't to change the gear ratio, only to make the geartrain stronger by replacing stock soft aluminium with aftermarket hard steel.

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This is the pinion you need - http://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-.6-pinion-18-teeth/rc-car-products/13757

Oil shocks are better than the kit pogo sticks, though they don't make a massive difference. You need something 65-70mm overall length (60-65mm eye-to-eye). Most shocks that length seem to be set up for on-road cars and the springs can be quite hard. If that's the case, use the kit springs.

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Just sharing... hopefully i can start my son and get him interested... i told my wife that this was a hobby i wished i had done with my dad when i was young...

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I think i found an old FF damper that I will try to use... if i am not mistaken, the FF kit uses oil dampers???

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FF01? In that case, yes the stock dampers are oil filled mini CVAs. If set up for the FF01 they will have internal spacers that may need to be removed to make them long enough to work with your car, but once this is done they should do the trick nicely.

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Day 1 pics. Finished the diffs and chasis... stopped on the part where we needed to open bag B. So amazing to see that my kids are so into it and helped me a lot... they followed my instructions for a good 30 mins or so before they started to be restless with the build... hopefully i can finish the build with them all the way....

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Sorry to resurrect this old thread. So I still have the Gf01. Being hunkered at home, me and my son took the Gf01 out and started bashing around. My son is now 8 and he can control the truck better... I may have to give him his own eventually... 

Anyhow, while I was digging through stuff I have, I noticed I had an older but unused Kyosho Endoplasma 16t brushed motor. I tried to rig it and install it in the Gf01 using the stock TBLE02S esc. When I tried to run it, it didnt quite go as planned. The car was lurking, wont take off and will just stop. It's as if the power is cutting off. I am not sure if this is ESC related since I know the TBLE02S is only rated to handle up to 23t brushed motor, but I've read somewhere that he used a 12T motor on his and ran fine. 

Any idea on where I should start problem solving this? Thanks!

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6 hours ago, burakol said:

Sorry to resurrect this old thread. So I still have the Gf01. Being hunkered at home, me and my son took the Gf01 out and started bashing around. My son is now 8 and he can control the truck better... I may have to give him his own eventually... 

Anyhow, while I was digging through stuff I have, I noticed I had an older but unused Kyosho Endoplasma 16t brushed motor. I tried to rig it and install it in the Gf01 using the stock TBLE02S esc. When I tried to run it, it didnt quite go as planned. The car was lurking, wont take off and will just stop. It's as if the power is cutting off. I am not sure if this is ESC related since I know the TBLE02S is only rated to handle up to 23t brushed motor, but I've read somewhere that he used a 12T motor on his and ran fine. 

Any idea on where I should start problem solving this? Thanks!

That motor is way too much for the TBLE02S. Your confusion probably lies in the fact that in brushless mode it will happily run 13.5 turn motors, which is an entirely different thing. Stick the silver can back in for now. If you want to run your 16t motor, get a hobbywing 1060 esc and you will have no bother at all, as well as lipo compatibility. 

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Alternatively, get a 13.5t Bluebottle brushless motor and run it with the TBLE-02. Depending on where you buy it it may be similarly priced if not cheaper than a 1060, and would give longer runtimes with less maintenance.

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Thank you. I wanted to try the 16t since I already have it with me so I might just buy a 1060esc. I did check the blue bottle 13.5 brushless motor, but maybe that would be for another time. I'm also just using NiMH battery so i dont think I will be maximizing the brushless motor potential unless I switch to LiPo. 

I'm assuming the internal drive gears and pinion will hold just fine? 

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5 minutes ago, burakol said:

Thank you. I wanted to try the 16t since I already have it with me so I might just buy a 1060esc. I did check the blue bottle 13.5 brushless motor, but maybe that would be for another time. I'm also just using NiMH battery so i dont think I will be maximizing the brushless motor potential unless I switch to LiPo. 

I'm assuming the internal drive gears and pinion will hold just fine? 

Should be good for a while. Its worth getting hardened or steel pinion to replace the kit one eventually. 

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Thanks. I'm starting to have another itch to build a new project for my son...thinking of another GF01. It's been a while... or I/we may build a CC or a CR depending if I can convince the wifey... 

 

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So, I noticed that my GF01 Cruiser always want to drift right. I tried so many times to re-center the wheels. I re-adjusted the servo horn making sure it is in neutral position, I re-aligned the steering turning the steering arms to where it appeared most centered to the eye... 

However, I still get the same result. Even when I try to adjust my steering alignment on my Radio, it the car still has the tendency to veer right. It also happens after the car wheelies... when the front two wheels touch the ground, it's as if it wont re-center itself. I also noticed that the lower king pin on the front right side does not tighten all the way. It still bites the plastic, but it wont tighten at all and just keeps turning. Could this be due to a weak servo, loose king pin, or misalignment somewhere? 

Thanks. 

 

I think u found the culprit. There is a crack on the top of the knuckle where the king pin screw hole is. I CA glued it, hopefully it will hold up for the time being; I didn't have any plastic epoxy. 

 

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I finally got to install the 16t Endoplasma motor!!! Whew!!! This is one kind of a beast... comparing it to the 13.5t brushless I tried last week, this is insane!!! I really have to adjust the trims just to get the front wheel on the ground... 5 years in the making and this GF01 finally came alive!!! 

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On 7/27/2020 at 6:21 PM, burakol said:

I finally got to install the 16t Endoplasma motor!!! Whew!!! This is one kind of a beast... comparing it to the 13.5t brushless I tried last week, this is insane!!! I really have to adjust the trims just to get the front wheel on the ground... 5 years in the making and this GF01 finally came alive!!! 

I have a 15T  brushed Dynamite motor mated to a 1060 in my G6-01 chassis . 
It has to trnn6 wheels instead of 4 but It still rips 

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10 hours ago, Dakratfink said:

I have a 15T  brushed Dynamite motor mated to a 1060 in my G6-01 chassis . 
It has to trnn6 wheels instead of 4 but It still rips 

Im debating if I should use my other 16t on my Dynahead, or a 21.5t brushless... since it will be a trail/light crawl truck, i don't want it to go crazy on the speed but Im hoping those portal axles will help minimize the speed without losing much torque. 

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If the 21.5 brushless is sensored I would think knit will be good for crawling with the   Precise control a sensored system provides 

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My 15T brushed has enough torque to crawl, but with the Wide bumper and open diffs it’s not a crawler by any means 

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