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Posted

Thanks for the warning :huh: . Ive got the teu104 esc so it's not water proof. They really do collect the snow don't they. Probably because the bodies are raised so high. Subaru shell looking good. :)

Just thought. Will the esc be okay in a balloon? No overheating issues?

Posted

Ah, is that what people put on the servo? I'm sure I saw a vid of someone putting marine grease or similar inside the servo around the metal gears then plasti dip the outside. I've got a metal geared servo so water is the enemy! Lol

Posted

the exact same stuff as used to waterproof a servo - and you can use on on a ESC or RX too . i 've just bought a Maverick Scout and its sold as 100% waterproof . Taking no chances though and everything will get the Plastidip treatment .

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks brom. Sounds like a permanent solution to waterproofing :) . I'll have to use what I have around tomorrow, so probably a balloon. I'll add plasti-dipping the servo, esc and rx to the to do list. I'll see if there are any guides to waterproofing the electrics on youtube when I get home tomorrow. The more I do the bigger the to do list gets. :lol:

Posted

Just looking at your ride height measurements I think you'll be fine at 55mm ride height. Mine with 103mm shocks was 60-65mm ride height which made it barrel roll, you could be ok. Have you measured those shocks eye to eye to see if they come up at 100mm or shorter?

Hi nito. Measured the shocks eye to eye today. They measure approx 100mm when off the ground but approx 95mm eye to eye under the weight of the car when on ground. Still not tested the roll yet. With the snow it won't give a true indication of its handling plus it's slushy and I haven't protected the electrics yet. Soon though, I'm itching to test it. Preferably in the dry with no snow.

Edit : After its first run it felt great :) . The new shocks took the bumps and jumps really well. I tried to test the shocks to the limit as nitomor mentioned that they can roll easier with the larger shocks. I tried hard cornering and running at full speed into brake turns on grass and a paved area but it stayed on all 4 wheels and didn't roll. Obviously with more powerful motors or lipo power this would be tested further but with a standard 540 and nimh power the shocks handled the car brilliantly.

Posted

Hi guys just another quick update. I never liked the gap between the chassis and the shell at the rear. My plan was to make a piece up at the back replicating the original monster beetle rear extended bumper which has the words 'MONSTER BEETLE' on it in large graphics. I think it was mr crispy that suggested a duratrax vw baja engine would look good in that gap. I looked into it a found a thread were bromvw and mr crispy were discussing it and it had some great pics too so I had to get one. :)

Here's a few pics of it packaged up and through various stages of build. There are no instructions but looking at the pieces it's pretty easy to put together.

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I fit the new engine onto the chassis and was really pleased with the result. It fills the gap nicely :) . Here are some before and after pics.

Before vw Baja engine

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Engine fitted

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Before engine fitting (rear 3/4 view)

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Engine fitted (rear 3/4 view)

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Think it looks much better at the rear now. It's only a basher vehicle but there are just a few things that I'd like to change and I've got a few more lined up. If anyones thinking of getting a duratrax engine I definately recommend them. They're a nice bit of kit.

  • Like 3
Posted

Your bug is looking better and better Terz1. Excellent build thread....

How do u think a 5 year old would get on with one? My boy turns 5 in April and thinking and get getting him something to go with my lunchbox?

R

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks rich. I think your 5 year old would get on fine with it. With the standard 540 motor it wouldn't be too fast but is still lots of fun. Plus it's a very tough rc so it will take any bumps and bangs that your little one might do to it. Also it has good ground clearance so it can be run on all types of terrain, mud, sand, snow, grass etc. It's basically a fun, tough go anywanywhere rc. He'll love it.

Nice build for you too. ;)

Posted

That engine looks ace Terz! I make no apologies for possibly copying this recipe in the futer if Mr T doesn't pump out a re-re MB! :)

I may well have to call it Monsterz Beetle if I do ;)

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks woodstock :) . It's a really nice engine. I think it will take a good few knocks too. If you ever do make your Monsterz Beetle feel free to take any ideas from my build. I'll look forward too it :) .

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks :) . It would look good with a hard plastic subaru brat shell, they have better detail than the lexan. It would have to be a box art paint job too B) . I did put my hard plastic clodbuster shell on my wt01 and the wheelbase fit it perfectly.

Posted

Yes Clodi have 275mm Wheelbase and WT/WR 280mm.

But Clod body looks a bit too big. There's a stupid logic in my head, but a clod sheel must have balloons as tyres. :D

Do you ever have put a subaru brat on a WR01?

  • Like 1
Posted

That's so true! :lol: Clod body fits perfectly but doesn't look right because it needs to have the huge tyres underneath it.

I haven't put the brat body on a WR01 but now you mention it I really want to do it.

Posted

I've done another couple of mods and additions recently. I made a post about hex drive nuts as after it's first couple of runs and less than an hours run time I took the wheels off and one of the rear plastic hex drive nuts fell in half. It hadn't had a large impact and with the plastic being brand new I was really surprised it happened. Feedback in that post came up with a few reasons why it happened.

Firstly it was freezing outside and apparently it can make them prone to cracking. Secondly a lot of sideways action can put a strain on them as someone said it happens on drift cars. I had been testing it by turning at full speed and also doing full speed brake turns to see if the larger dampers would make it barrel roll (they didn't :) ) . And last but not least I could have tightened the wheel nuts too much forgetting that it's only holding a plastic wheel on :rolleyes: . It could have been one of the above or any combination but it's not the most expensive part to replace and it's part and parcel of the hobby.

Split hex nut

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A few suggested alloy hex nuts and the type I liked the most were the alloy ones with the grub screws which were suggested by gregM. These tighten around the shaft so they don't come off with the wheel and risk loosing the little pin. I had a look around and found these from blacksmithproducts in gold to keep with the theme.

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Here's the comparison of the old plastic hex nut to the new aluminium one

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All fitted. Found another use for the tamiya hex spanner. It's like a mini axle stand. :)

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I shouldn't break these, plus I think they look nicer too. :)

And onto the next mod.....

  • Like 3
Posted

Much better! What's next?

It's getting almost a full electrical overhaul and then I've got some more gold bits too add. It's going to get an interior and driver too. :)

I shouldn't be doing all this to a basher really, but I will. :lol: I do like the driving but I think I enjoy the building even more.

Think I need to do a scaler with loads of detail.

Posted

I know what you mean. I take pride in saying that all my cars are runners, but I enjoy building them so much that my fleet has grown to the point that some of my "runners" haven't been run in months. There are shelf queens that see more action!

Building a scaler is a great way to satisfy ones need for building. I started a CC01 Pajero scale project years ago, and it is still ongoing, as there is always another little accessory to add, or mod to perform, or detail to fettle. What sort of scaler did you have in mind?

  • Like 1
Posted

Building a scaler is a great way to satisfy ones need for building. I started a CC01 Pajero scale project years ago, and it is still ongoing, as there is always another little accessory to add, or mod to perform, or detail to fettle. What sort of scaler did you have in mind?

That's the way I think too, there's always something you can add or modify to a scaler. I like the idea of it taking years and years to finish, if I ever do. I've not looked into it in great detail yet but seen some fantastic projects. I like the ford f150 xlt and the ford f350 high lift looks stunning! I also like the axial sxc10 even though it's not a tamiya.

This would be the ultimate one...

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-ford-f350-high-lift/rc-car-products/25682

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