Mudblaster 2 build with a twist at the end

[Rich1978]

Yup all odered from Tamico.....I will do a small build thread when finished!

Thanks for the inspiration guys......I hope this comes out well!

[Terz1]

Look forward too it Rich.

[Rich1978]

Out of curiosity which paint did you use ?

Im liking this

http://www.rcgrabbag.com/archives/tamiya-mountaineer-1992

The original was Italian Red but they dont do that in polycarb paint....

[XV Pilot]

Not sure what was used on the car you linked to, but talking from my experience, the Tamiya PS-34 Bright Red I used on my polycarb Hotshot shell is very close if not identical to the TS-8 Italian Red that adorns my hardbody Pajero.

[Rich1978]

Thanks I'll take a look.

Do u have any pictures?

[Terz1]

That's the one I used Rich tamiya PS-34 bright red polycarb paint, the one that xv mentioned. One can should be enough but I got 2 just in case and did many many coats to get a deep finish which you can't see through.

Here's a pic when it was just finished and the nearest to how it looks in real life without any decals...

I bought my paint from model sport. They've never let me down and have a good rep so you should be fine ordering from them.

[Terz1]

So I thought I'd bring myself into the 21st century and update the electrics on the car. This was the first time I'd used an electronic speed controller so even the little tamiya 104 esc seemed good to me .

I wanted an esc which allowed me to use lower turn motors and was waterproof so I went for the 1060 quicrun esc which can run a motor down to 12t and is waterproof and dust proof, nice! Id heard good things from other members too. At the same time I needed to update the radio gear so went for the code 2.4ghz gear as it wasn't too expensive, had a 15 model memory for the fleet I was building up and was a stick controller.

Old gear....

New gear....

I decided to attach the receiver and esc with velcro pads so that things can be swapped out really easily. I think I'll do this with all my rc's so I can chop and change between models without much fuss.

Velcro pad on chassis....

And one on the receiver. I did the same to the esc.

Here it is all mounted to the chassis and ready to go.

Old 27mhz with the new 2.4ghz transmitter. They look similar but the code has so many options that you can play with. Plus you don't have a huuuge floppy aerial!

The final piece of the electrical update jigsaw was the motor. The silver can ran well but it's not going to win any speed contests so I decided to use one from the small selection I had.

From left to right. Standard 540 27t, vision modified 23t, tamiya sport tuned 23t, yokomo pro stock 2 21t

I did a little thread on what people recommended in my wt01. The replies all favoured the yokomo due to it being the best quality and best in performance so in it went.

And finally I ordered a steel pinion from modelsport to keep wear levels down which tends to happen with the standard pinion.

Everything worked fantastic on the test run. It was much quicker than with the 540 silver can installed. Did a few donuts and wheelies . The 21t motor did have a slightly negative effect when cornering though. Before I could corner flat out but now it rolled over in some of the corners at full speed. I had adjusted the shocks to a softer setting though so I will play with the settings to see if I can carry more speed through the corners. Member nitomor said his rolled in the corners and it may have been due to the 105mm shocks (think that's the right size). If settings don't cure the rolls I'll replace with 95mm all round as this size have had good feedback.

[The Knight]

How long could you use the standard alu pinion? After 2 years using sport tuned motors my one looks like first day. ^^

[XV Pilot]

Judging by the experiences of Nitomor, my brother-in-law and now yourself, there seems to be some as-yet-unidentified quirk of the WR01/WR02/WT01 gearbox that allows the stock pinion to last far longer than normal.

I would advocate going for steel anyway to be on the safe side, but if the £3.50 or thereabouts stretches the budget, the stock one seems to be good for a fair bit of running. I just wish I could work out why...

[bromvw]

Judging by the experiences of Nitomor, my brother-in-law and now yourself, there seems to be some as-yet-unidentified quirk of the WR01/WR02/WT01 gearbox that allows the stock pinion to last far longer than normal.

I would advocate going for steel anyway to be on the safe side, but if the £3.50 or thereabouts stretches the budget, the stock one seems to be good for a fair bit of running. I just wish I could work out why...

i 've been looking at it from the view point of a engineer with the help of a friend of mine XV . What he says is that its down to the way the first driven gear is supported by the second lay gear and its large relative surface area . He thinks this minimizes gear' chatter ' as he calls it . Basically so long as the pinion mesh is set correctly there is very little to go wrong so the pinion will last longer . Its just a very well designed gearbox .

no idea if hes right or not but he has over 40 years of experience .

[Terz1]

I didn't know that the wr01/wr02/wt01 gearbox was so easy on the pinion. I'm glad it is though. It was just a precaution really as I had a TL01B which I had only used rarely with a 540 motor and a few runs with a 21t motor and the teeth wore very badly. Theres a thread going at the moment about the alloy pinions. I was going to put a pic up of it.

I think all my tamiya will be fitted with steel ones from now on.

[bromvw]

I didn't know that the wr01/wr02/wt01 gearbox was so easy on the pinion. I'm glad it is though. It was just a precaution really as I had a TL01B which I had only used rarely with a 540 motor and a few runs with a 21t motor and the teeth wore very badly. Theres a thread going at the moment about the alloy pinions. I was going to put a pic up of it.

I think all my tamiya will be fitted with steel ones from now on.

its worthwhile if only for peace of mind .

[Jeffyboy403]

I'm not an engineer but it may also be

i 've been looking at it from the view point of a engineer with the help of a friend of mine XV . What he says is that its down to the way the first driven gear is supported by the second lay gear and its large relative surface area . He thinks this minimizes gear' chatter ' as he calls it . Basically so long as the pinion mesh is set correctly there is very little to go wrong so the pinion will last longer . Its just a very well designed gearbox .

no idea if hes right or not but he has over 40 years of experience .

I'm no engineer but I wonder if the fact that the WR/WT-01 gear box has three counter gears between the pinion and differential gear. This may help reduce stress on the pinion as the 'counter' gears are absorbing some of the friction. Most gearboxes I think have only one maybe two counter gears(clod buster).

[bromvw]

I'm not an engineer but it may also be

I'm no engineer but I wonder if the fact that the WR/WT-01 gear box has three counter gears between the pinion and differential gear. This may help reduce stress on the pinion as the 'counter' gears are absorbing some of the friction. Most gearboxes I think have only one maybe two counter gears(clod buster).

That's essentially what my engineer friend is saying Jeffy

[Jeffyboy403]

That's essentially what my engineer friend is saying Jeffy

Gotcha bromvw, it makes sense though clodbuster gearboxes are known for their durability also with extra counter gears and I never had pinion problems with those either. I learn somthing new on this site everyday. Cheers to you and your friend

[Peter_B]

I know it's an old thread, but I just found it and have been given oodles of ideas with regards to body shell for my recently acquired Wild Dagger.

Thanks for the inspiration!

Did you ever get an interior fitted?