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Posted

^I was thinking that a few days ago. Those of us that build these box stock (aside from bearings of course) need to meet up and race these things!

Posted

^I was thinking that a few days ago. Those of us that build these box stock (aside from bearings of course) need to meet up and race these things!

I'm in! I'm an easy 15 minutes from Palm beach international airport just tell me when you're all coming...lol great little track right up the street, great weather. Sounds great to me!
Posted

ok, than i misunderstood your post.

Hopefully my starcard decal set will arrive today, so i will keep you updated about the progress :)

I fitted in a 13,5t LRP brushless, Tamiya m2 tires on 26mm wheel with 2mm and 9mm offset, so hopefully the beauty will have enough grip.....

(taisan)Tobi

Posted

Trying to finish this this week....

ecc4174afa387541a89421ec0c62ee7d.jpg

I thought I'd pick the brains of a genius, you obviously used a PS paint inside the bodyshell. Did you use the same paint on the ABS spoiler parts or was it a TS paint. ?

Posted

Looks like PS paint to me, I love using PS paint on ABS parts, it dries super quick, gives a great hard durable finish and you can even get a decent shine using it too :) It was PS paint I used on the Tamiya Wheels for my Laguna BTCC build, which gave then an ultra glossy finish :)

gallery_16696_3916_217866.jpg

James

:)

Posted

Looks like PS paint to me, I love using PS paint on ABS parts, it dries super quick, gives a great hard durable finish and you can even get a decent shine using it too :) It was PS paint I used on the Tamiya Wheels for my Laguna BTCC build, which gave then an ultra glossy finish :)

James

:)

Wow, I thought the PS paint would be more matt. I'm happy to be proved wrong, less paint to buy ;) ;)

  • Like 1
Posted

In my experience its only good on small parts, i.e, wheels, wings, mirrors etc. Apply a few light coats to get a good covering, then on the final 2 apply thicker to let the paint just flow and no more and it dries glossy. Too thin and it dries matt. Def worth practicing on a few old parts first.

I hate the TS paints for R/C parts, far too thin a paint. Its a paint for 1/24 static kits more than r/c kits tbh. Just my opinion of course.

James

:)

Posted

Is it just me or is the stock drive shaft on the TA02 an after thought comprising my granny's old wire hangers and a pair of needle nose pliers, rattles like a 72 ford corsair with a bent drive shaft

Posted

Is it just me or is the stock drive shaft on the TA02 an after thought comprising my granny's old wire hangers and a pair of needle nose pliers, rattles like a 72 ford corsair with a bent drive shaft

Lol!

Posted

I thought I'd pick the brains of a genius, you obviously used a PS paint inside the bodyshell. Did you use the same paint on the ABS spoiler parts or was it a TS paint. ?

Actually they are different ;-)

PS-41 and TS-30

f8427a98ce3be17343655e33e463790d.jpg

Also after I have prime the plastic, I back it with black before the sliver...then clear coat.

Also for the PS.

Rule of thumb, anything metallic, shiny, I would use black as backing.

it was very close, and with the clear coat the shines are almost the same as the polycarbonate - definitely more work but well worth it.

I used PS paint on plastic parts,, but they don't show the same shine with the Body shell as plastic.. so it's really up to each person.

Posted

Interesting. My R32 shell was the first time I tried using TS paint on the wing and mirrors. I love the way it turned out, but now you guys have me second guessing this method.

2fcacca6ef05b60fd7cfdddd3b9cc8b0.jpg

The finish is a very close match, I was only left wondering if I should've used some TS clear to protect the finish? If you guys are simply using PS, I'm clearly over thinking.

Posted

If its Metallic I use a PS silver before hand to help give the metallic paint a backing. I used TS paint once on body parts, but never again. Alot of Tamiyas bodies require the use of PS paints on the plastic parts, especially the F104 F1 cars.

James

:)

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