Rich1978 28 Posted February 15, 2015 OK, never painted a lean shell. I have a Mudblaster II shell due to be painted. I don't want the inside of the cab to be red as I plan on adding a driver. So I'm planing on painting the shell with two cans of Red ps-2 and backing it all with black. Will this look OK? What advice an u give me? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisRx718 4470 Posted February 15, 2015 It will go a very dark shade of red. Generally you should back with silver or white first followed by black for the effect you are after. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CoolJetta3 39 Posted February 15, 2015 This is Tamiya Copper backed with black on my CR-01. I think it came out pretty deep and rich and I had enough copper down that the black wouldn't bleed through 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rich1978 28 Posted February 15, 2015 That looks ppretty amazing.... I might go silver first tho. Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taliesin 260 Posted February 16, 2015 Silver or white will make the colors truer to what you probably expect. Then you can back with black to get the effect you're after (black interior for the cab, yes?) without darkening the overall color. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rich1978 28 Posted February 16, 2015 Yes black interior. I saw a picture of the MBII shell in red and it all looked too red as u could see inside and it was all too mono tone. Adding a black interior will help to break that up (and also some stickers as this had none) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bromvw 744 Posted February 16, 2015 guys i've never done a lexan shell but will be attempting one shortly . Simple red and black with silver rear tray. How many cans would you say i will need ? To save money will i be ok backing the red with the silver and then black ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tamiya1/10 382 Posted February 16, 2015 One can of each will be more than enough. White , grey, silver will give you brighter top coat color a black backing will give you darler / richer color to the top coat. I think a light or bright red with a darker red or burgundy backing will give you a dark red, black a solid red. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bromvw 744 Posted February 16, 2015 One can of each will be more than enough. White , grey, silver will give you brighter top coat color a black backing will give you darler / richer color to the top coat. I think a light or bright red with a darker red or burgundy backing will give you a dark red, black a solid red. ok so for a nice bright red just back it with the silver ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taliesin 260 Posted February 17, 2015 Yup. Just make sure when you hold it up to the light you have a nice even coat of red with no big areas where it is too thin. It is ok for it to be a bit translucent but you want it to look even, not blotchy. Then put a nice coat of silver (or white) on and you should have a nice, bright red that looks good. Then if you want an area (cab) to be black you can do that - the silver should provide a barrier so the red stays consistent and doesn't darken. Take your time, wash the shell THOROUGHLY with detergent and water, make sure it is good and dry, and then add your masking, etc. Once you are all done with the prep ... let 'er rip. Getting a good result is usually a matter of patience and good prep work. Take your time and put several thin coats on as evenly as possible and let them dry for 15 minutes or so between coats - longer if it is humid where you are. You don't want runs and pools - although painting on the inside covers a multitude of little errors, so don't panic is you get a small run or two. (If you cake the paint on it will crack later or the colors will bleed.) Good luck and have fun! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bromvw 744 Posted February 17, 2015 Yup. Just make sure when you hold it up to the light you have a nice even coat of red with no big areas where it is too thin. It is ok for it to be a bit translucent but you want it to look even, not blotchy. Then put a nice coat of silver (or white) on and you should have a nice, bright red that looks good. Then if you want an area (cab) to be black you can do that - the silver should provide a barrier so the red stays consistent and doesn't darken. Take your time, wash the shell THOROUGHLY with detergent and water, make sure it is good and dry, and then add your masking, etc. Once you are all done with the prep ... let 'er rip. Getting a good result is usually a matter of patience and good prep work. Take your time and put several thin coats on as evenly as possible and let them dry for 15 minutes or so between coats - longer if it is humid where you are. You don't want runs and pools - although painting on the inside covers a multitude of little errors, so don't panic is you get a small run or two. (If you cake the paint on it will crack later or the colors will bleed.) Good luck and have fun! thanks . i've done loads of hard shells so actually doing the spraying is not a worry . Knowing in what order to lay down the layers seems to be the key to a good finish with these lexan shells though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markbt73 5316 Posted February 17, 2015 Color, then white (for solids) or silver (for metallics or pearls), then black to make it opaque. The black undercoat really helps take away the fake plastic look and gives it more depth than you'd guess. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bromvw 744 Posted February 17, 2015 Color, then white (for solids) or silver (for metallics or pearls), then black to make it opaque. The black undercoat really helps take away the fake plastic look and gives it more depth than you'd guess. Sorted - many thanks . getting away from the ' fake plastic look' is exactly what i want . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simensays 321 Posted February 18, 2015 Another cool thing is to do the first (inside) layer in silver, then back with black, then do the main color on the outside.When you run the car, you will scuff off some bits of the outer layer, revealing the silver, or bare metal realistic look. I know some of the members here have been testing this out, but I can't remember who at the moment...I wish I did that on my CR01 FJ40...I do the black backing on my paint jobs on both lexan & ABS (as with the Bruiser below) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jameswrx 40 Posted April 14, 2020 I’ve just redone my RX7, a tt01 that I did years ago and was pretty battered. Really please with how it’s gone as didn’t think it’d look half as good to be honest. I got a bit carried away with the paint removal and had to sand where I melted the top layer of the inside a bit! Anyway, chucked some ps34 red on and it looks pretty good. Can’t see any of the paint removal process. But my question is, do I need to back the paint? I never backed it originally and reading this thread it seems I should back in silver. Am I going to gain anything by doing so? I’ve left the masking tape on so just wondering if it’s worth getting some silver and backing the red for any benefit? I hadn’t keyed the shell originally! So the paint had fallen off pretty easy after a few hits. Dark patches from prev repairs Roof scratched After (ignore the black where headlights go as this is covered when pop up lights go on) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
