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speedy_w_beans

Speedy's TA06R Build Thread

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Finishing touches for now -- belt tensioner, antenna post, cable clip, body posts, front bumper, bottom battery door, wheel nuts... I'm still waiting for the motor I want to be restocked. Then I can install the electronics and test with some tires and a body.

IMG_1870.JPG

Some positive impressions from the TA06R build:

- Lots of carbon reinforced plastics are included.

- Hex hardware is appreciated vs. the normal JIS hardware.

- The gear diffs have a lot of tuning range with different weight oils.

- The rear gearbox is very smooth and has very little friction; it's really quite nice.

- Some of the extras that come in an "R" kit above and beyond a "PRO" kit are appreciated -- aluminum suspension mounts, metal shims, roll bars, clamping wheel hexes, etc.

- The chassis tub is very thin on the bottom and very narrow, but it's amazingly stiff once the kit is fully assembled.

Some possible areas of improvement:

- Some extra shims for suspension arms, especially the rear, would be nice if they were included in the kit.

- Since this is an "R" level kit, it would be nice if Tamiya would have included the orange TRF O-rings for the diffs instead of the usual black O-rings.

- It was way too easy to strip the roll bar mounts in the lower bulkheads; I had to be extra careful installing those screws.

- The rear gearbox braces should be redesigned to accommodate more brushless motors more easily (no Dremeling required).

- Center belt friction feels just a smidge high compared to a TA05V2.

Tradeoffs:

- The bottom battery door is inconvenient; on the other hand, the battery is very low in the chassis which is good. The emphasis is on performance and not necessarily ease of use. You could charge the battery in the car, but that seems a little risky.

- Cable routing through the center belt could also be inconvenient. I know some people have swapped the servo and ESC positions to keep most of the wiring away from the belts, but I think routing the cables across the battery box and through the belts is actually more balanced than keeping all the thick wiring on one side of the chassis. Again, the emphasis seems to be on performance and not necessarily ease of use/maintenance. The TA06MS does the ESC/servo swap. Either way can be made to work.

- Tuning gear diffs requires changing fluids or having a few diffs built ready to swap. Ball diffs can be tuned with just a hex driver. On the other hand, gear diffs can have a longer service life between rebuilds.

The TA06R feels like a good kit overall. I appreciate what the designers were trying to do with centralizing the mass and incorporating the TRF418 suspension. There are plenty of hopups, carbon plastics, and hex hardware used throughout the kit. There are a lot of small parts and details to fuss over, which is very enjoyable for me.

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I haven't removed any material yet, but most brushless motors with side tabs interfere with the rear brace (part A10). I measured the distance between the inside of the motor mount and outside edge of A10, and compared it to the distance from the mounting face of a few motors to the side tabs on the cans, and there is definitely interference. Rotating the motors doesn't help, either.

Speed Passion has some motors with rear bullet connections; these won't interfere with the brace. For most other side tab motors, especially any with bent tabs, about half the width of the brace has to be removed to make it fit. The brace isn't completely cut; it's thinned out by removing material. If the motor shaft is long enough you could space it away from the motor mount, but that throws the balance off.

It's a stupid design in my opinion. From what I remember the FF03 has the same issue. Other than cutting the brace or buying a Speed Passion motor, the only other option I see is an RSector RS6 graphite conversion; the rear braces are much thinner and allow for regular motors. Exotek discontinued their EX06 conversion some time ago, but that conversion used the Tamiya braces (A9 and A10). Take a look at the pictures for the RS6 and compare the braces to the stock Tamiya plastic parts; you'll see how much thinner they are.

So, I haven't done anything yet -- but something will have to be done to drive this chassis.

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Short update -- in the end, I did buy the RSector RS6 conversion from TQ RC Racing on closeout.  It worked beautifully, relocating the servo to minimize the wiring passing by the belt.  It also makes it easy to install/remove the battery from the top via some thumb screws.  The motor braces are narrower and don't interfere with the tabs on the motor.

img37537_924201623404_4.jpg

img37537_924201623404_5.jpg

I tossed a HPI Pantera shell on top of the chassis...

img37537_924201623404_1.jpg

 

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Chassis looks great👍

How easy is it to slide the battery in and out?

I never found the access from underneath a problem though.

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Thanks!  The battery is easy; remove two thumb screws and loosen two more, and the whole upper plate can be pulled out of the way.  Drop the battery in, put the plate in place, and tighten the four thumb screws.  Easy peasy.

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On 29/05/2017 at 2:34 AM, speedy_w_beans said:

I tossed a HPI Pantera shell on top of the chassis...

img37537_924201623404_1.jpg

 

Yikes another awesome shell to add to the wish list! 

 

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On 2/21/2015 at 5:30 PM, speedy_w_beans said:

My hypothesis is:

- Low power motor: TB03/TB04, shaft drive for best drivetrain efficiency but loses stability with higher power motors

- Higher power motor, flowing track: TA05V2, dual belt drive for good top speed and no torque steer effects since there is no center prop shaft

- Higher power motor, technical track: TA06 for steering responsiveness and no torque steer, but sacrifice some top end speed due to the extra gearbox

I plan to do some side-by-side testing in a few months when the weather gets warmer to see if this hypothesis really holds true. I need to see if physics theory and engineering design really holds true in real world settings, and if it makes sense to have a palette of chassis to work with.

Dragging up an old post now, but interested to hear how this panned out.  @speedy_w_beans have you had a chance to do any testing and did the TA06R outperform the TA05 in the tight tracks?  From what I've read the TA06 was unloved by racers and they stuck with TA05 then went to TA07.  Have you added a TA07 to the mix as well?

Also, I see you used Trackstar electronics.  What did you use and how do you find them?  I am using these ones

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-ts-d99x-digital-1-10-scale-touring-drift-buggy-steering-servo-10kg-0-08sec-45g.html?___store=en_us

in my TA07 and TRF102 and so far find them ok.  I think they are slower than claimed, they don't "seem" to be as quick as my Savox, but so far so good.

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Hi Jonathon,

I did not do any side-by-side testing; I can't remember why, but I guess I was busy with other things.  It seems like I was changing jobs and my daughter was starting university, so real life was keeping me busy.  There's a local indoor onroad track with very nice CRC carpet; it's just a question of making time to do it.

I've read the same things about the TA06 being unloved, but I've also seen some YouTube videos of guys dominating the track with these (and this was 6-1/2 years ago!):

So far I've been happy with Trackstar electronics in general.  Their 1258TG servo for $33 works great in 1/8 scale buggies and truggies.  The DRFT-303 servo at $6-7 works fine for onroad.  For onroad I've been using their 120A Turbo ESC with a program box.  The boost and turbo functions work fine.  I've also been using their 17.5T and 13.5T brushless sensored motors with no complaints.  I still like my Futaba radio better, though.

The servo and motor prices have stayed pretty constant over the past few years, but the ESC price has gone up from Gen 1 to Gen 2.  They used to be around $40, now they're higher.  Still not too bad if you wait for a sale.

 

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10 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:

Hi Jonathon,

I did not do any side-by-side testing; I can't remember why, but I guess I was busy with other things.  It seems like I was changing jobs and my daughter was starting university, so real life was keeping me busy.  There's a local indoor onroad track with very nice CRC carpet; it's just a question of making time to do it.

I've read the same things about the TA06 being unloved, but I've also seen some YouTube videos of guys dominating the track with these (and this was 6-1/2 years ago!):

So far I've been happy with Trackstar electronics in general.  Their 1258TG servo for $33 works great in 1/8 scale buggies and truggies.  The DRFT-303 servo at $6-7 works fine for onroad.  For onroad I've been using their 120A Turbo ESC with a program box.  The boost and turbo functions work fine.  I've also been using their 17.5T and 13.5T brushless sensored motors with no complaints.  I still like my Futaba radio better, though.

The servo and motor prices have stayed pretty constant over the past few years, but the ESC price has gone up from Gen 1 to Gen 2.  They used to be around $40, now they're higher.  Still not too bad if you wait for a sale.

 

I hate it when real life gets in the way! If you get a chance to compare then I'm really interested in the results.

What model is the Trackstar equivalent of the 1258TG? I have the savox in my 4wd buggy and its awesome, its so fast, its just a shame they are full size and not low profile. The trackstar that I have are the equivalent to the Savox 1251MG and so far so good. What i'm worried about is how they handle knocks, will they end up with a lot of play after a few heavy crashes. 

I run trackstar 80amp turbo esc and 17.5T motors in my buggies and so far so good.

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I used to race my TA06 and didn't suffer from top end speed but I did struggle with under steer.

Never had a ta05 to compare with but the ta03f I used before was quite the opposite.

Sven

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17 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

What model is the Trackstar equivalent of the 1258TG? I have the savox in my 4wd buggy and its awesome, its so fast, its just a shame they are full size and not low profile. The trackstar that I have are the equivalent to the Savox 1251MG and so far so good. What i'm worried about is how they handle knocks, will they end up with a lot of play after a few heavy crashes.

This pretty much convinced me to give Turnigy/Trackstar 1258TG a try:

 

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On 5/28/2017 at 9:34 PM, speedy_w_beans said:

Short update -- in the end, I did buy the RSector RS6 conversion from TQ RC Racing on closeout.  It worked beautifully, relocating the servo to minimize the wiring passing by the belt.  It also makes it easy to install/remove the battery from the top via some thumb screws.  The motor braces are narrower and don't interfere with the tabs on the motor.

img37537_924201623404_4.jpg

img37537_924201623404_5.jpg

I tossed a HPI Pantera shell on top of the chassis...

img37537_924201623404_1.jpg

 

I somehow missed this one. What a fantastic bodyshell you have there!

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