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JLZ78

JLZ78's TRF 502X build

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Step 22 - Oil filling.

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Going for kit standard oil here. Ready for vacuuming out the air bubbles.

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Shocks filled and sealed.

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The kit comes with medium yellow springs as standard.

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Hop up step - Big Bore damper build.

I'm going to hop-up the hop-up with TRF durometer blue X seals.

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I'm also trying the TRF tool.

Seal comparison

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Springs are separate to the damper Pack. Three hardness settings marked with colour markers.

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Number 7 piston. The kit also comes with a number 6.

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Damper detail. 40% higher capacity than kit standard. The seal design feels less

complicated and hopefully even more robust.

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Big bore and kit standard comparison.

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Big bores are higher quality with metal caps and damper ends. The caps and ends on the kit standard are plastic. Care needs to be taken not to pinch the aeration screw seal in the caps on the big bores.

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Step 23 & 24 - fitting the dampers.

I went off piste here and changed the kit plastic parts for blue aluminium spacers and a metal nut.

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Looking aggressive.

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Step 25 - fitting the motor.

Had to change my plan here. The sensorless Falsonic by Yeah Racing didn't fit! It's 3mm too long, so plan B. The Trackstar Turnigy 5.5 sensored motor. This is a better set up than the Yeah Racing combo, so I'm not too upset.

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I used a gear ratio app to work out the best pinion. Novak website suggests approx 11 for a 4WD buggy with a 5.5 turn, so I have gone with the 17t spur. These are steel (magnetic) and should give me a final ratio of 10.33. Either way, checking temperatures is the way to ensure you are geared correctly.

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Step 26 - Servo setup.

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I'm using a Savox 1251MG for this build. Here is the neutral position check.

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Still lots of careful positioning and soldering to do.

That's it for now. Next up, electrics install.

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Did not know there are also bigbore trf shocks available, they look great.

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Did you notice any vertical slop in the damper caps in the damper stay bushings? I just mounted big bores up and I am finding about 1mm vertical slop in all 4 corners. I, used aluminum damper bushings, but tried the kit plastic ones with the same results. It seems like the big bore aluminum damper caps are a little sloppy.. Not sure if that is by design?

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I didn't get vertical slip, but a bit of longitudinal using the kit plastic parts. The big bore instructions suggest to use the kits standard plastic parts for the 502x and I wasn't happy with the result. I ended up using the metal parts included withthe big bores for the DB-03 and raided my parts bin for the nylon nuts. The slop is better than the plastic finish, but not perfect. I'm not sure if this is by design. It will be interesting to see the finish on a 503 and 201 XMW as they have big bores as standard.

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I didn't get vertical slip, but a bit of longitudinal using the kit plastic parts. The big bore instructions suggest to use the kits standard plastic parts for the 502x and I wasn't happy with the result. I ended up using the metal parts included withthe big bores for the DB-03 and raided my parts bin for the nylon nuts. The slop is better than the plastic finish, but not perfect. I'm not sure if this is by design. It will be interesting to see the finish on a 503 and 201 XMW as they have big bores as standard.

Thank you for the reply. There is a chance I am being a little overly critical of them. With Tamiya and their high end parts like this, I expect perfection.

Speaking of perfection, your car looks great! I would hate to see how much you spent! :D

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very nice build. just a few questions for you; do you add a little oil when tapping the plastic pieces? also do you just screw the rod ends in or do you tap the edge slightly so the threading bites easier? one last bit is the X seals you use for the shock build, how do they compare to the regular seals? thank you so much for sharing your build. looking forward to your updates.

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Hello,

1) I don't oil the plastic parts before tapping. The tap is sharp and strong enough not to need it.

2) I tap the plastic adjusters completely and use a left hand tap for the other end so they adjust properly.

3) the X seals - don't know yet, time will tell!! They look to be a better long term prospect for this sort of buggy. I am expecting them to be more reliable.

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This thread has been a major distraction for me this evening, I came online to make my own topic and was drawn in by this, I'm very impressed but I've lost 40mins reading it all, lol.

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Step 29 - ESC install

The ESC is a Trackstar 140a version. The placement in the instructions calls for mounting the receiver on the servo. I'm not really up for that, so I'm placing the Spektrum SR310 in between the Savox and the Trackstar.

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The fit is tight and the ESC capacitor has been strapped to the upper deck. ESC clearance with the spur is key.

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I'm not a fan of soldering (probably because I'm not very good), but the motor wires have worked out ok. I will probably review the on/off switch placement.

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Step 30 - Aerial Fitment

Not much to say here.... except the aerial tube is a rather nice blue colour

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Step 31 and 32 - wheels and tyres

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I have some spare Tamiya C compound tyres which are very soft. They will do for initial trials. I originally superglued them at 4 points, but a test run on the workbench showed how much shape change the tyres undertake when running at high speed. They absolutely need gluing all round the rim.

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It's also upgrade time with a wider hub washer for the rear axle. Not sure what this brings to the party.

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Rear wheel fitment over the shaft is fiddly, but not as fiddly as the front hex hub up next.

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Step 34 Front wheel fitment.

You need to be careful to add the spacer between the front hub bearings. Plus, fitting the wheel over the thin hex hubs is difficulties fiddly.

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Standing on its wheels for the first time. The rear toe-in is really noticeable.

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Ground clearance before batteries and weights.

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Have you got crimpers? You should shorten the servo and ESC wires to the receiver - will look much neater!

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Yeah, I did consider that, but experience has taught me there is a high likelihood of unreliability when wires are modified onthe small receiver plugs. In the interim I just loop the wire to keep it neater. I would like to shorten them, but only if I could keep them reliable.

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Maybe these cars are fast but they have no soul in my opinion...

Max

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Maybe these cars are fast but they have no soul in my opinion...

Max

We are all entitled to an opinion....

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Your build looks great. Where are you going to be racing? I also agree with Max. I have a stable of wheelers that I race but they really don't have any soul. Most people would be very hard pressed to tell the difference from my Xray, Cat, or AE wheelers. Wish I could get a SuperShot body to fit on one lol.

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I'm not sure I have the time to race unfortunately. I admire these cars for their tech and uncompromising design. That appeals to me as much as the vintage soul of the Egress and Avante that are in my collection. I will run it at home and near my house, but I doubt I'll get the time to race.

Thanks all for the feedback on the cables. I've done a bit of research and invested in a proper crimping tool to shorten the wires.

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Maybe these cars are fast but they have no soul in my opinion...

Max

Maybe these cars are fast but they have no soul in my opinion...

Max

What's missing over, say, an egress - which obviously also has evolved into many different chassis?

Built for racing

Carbon decks

Shaft drive

Gorgeous shocks

Plastic arms, evolved from an initially poor design

Carbon towers

Touch of blue

Great to build

Genuine question!

The one for me with no soul (although I'd still like one, it was the un-obtainable hero car when I was a kid) is the Top Force. It's really just a heap of recycled plastic parts from other cars and a carbon deck with little thought to geometry etc.

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