An M-05 Monte Carlo Mini build that isn't

[mr crispy 2293]

Nice build thread XV Pilot. What wheel hexes did you use as they look very nice.

[XV Pilot 1936]

Thanks!

Those are p/n 53056 Tamiya Pin Type Wheel Adapters. Essentially they are metal versions of the stock plastic items.

[Nobbi1977 1793]

Now to add a means of securing the battery:

Although sold as fitting the TL-01 and M-03, the Tamiya Quick Release Battery Holder also fits the M-05. (And the WR-01 and WT-01.)

Apart from making battery changes more convenient, it has another advantage in that it shifts the battery slightly off-center away from the motor, contributing to better chassis balance.

You got a part number for the quick release please?

[MitchellJames 63]

Very enjoyable read. I totally DID'NT see that Fiat body shell coming

[XV Pilot 1936]

You got a part number for the quick release please?

Sure, it is 53346.

[Nobbi1977 1793]

Sure, it is 53346.

Many thanks, two on order :-)

[XV Pilot 1936]

Many thanks, two on order :-)

No problem.

They come with fibreglass plates as stock, but if you want a really classy option, Fibre-lyte offer the plates in carbon too.

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/tamiya/tl01.html

[Nobbi1977 1793]

No problem.

They come with fibreglass plates as stock, but if you want a really classy option, Fibre-lyte offer the plates in carbon too.

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/tamiya/tl01.html

I am just wondering if I can modify them to get longer LiPo stick packs in my WT-01.

[XV Pilot 1936]

I am just wondering if I can modify them to get longer LiPo stick packs in my WT-01.

That is very easily accomplished. The quick-release mechanism and the static endplate screw onto the ends of the battery "wings". All you need to do to increase the length of space available for the battery is to add spacers between the "wings" and the plates. This should provide a neat factory-looking solution to long LiPo fitment.

[Crash Cramer 617]

Oh my, didn't see that nicely painted Fiat coming at all. Along with a few questions, here goes. What wheels are those? Should I never run the alu pinion on any of my cars with just a stock motor in it?? I hate the sound of killing spur gears, but here in the good ole USA, most idiots at the hobby shop don't know squat about what pitch gear is correct for them there TAM EEEE YAA cars. I am surrounded by idiots and after talking with a few of my buddies in other states, I know I am not alone. The best thing we can hope for is to order our parts online by knowing the part numbers, but if those parts are not standard to distributors here in the states, we can get stung hard with the GBP conversion to USD, so if you have any other source for the pinions that will make it easy for me to find on TowerHobbies or other sites geared for the states, that would be very helpful.

I am SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO with you on Tamiya's overcomplication of the build process. Changing to 7 different screw types and a multitude of other parts to assemble in subassemblies seems to only alienate the kit builder where my experience with the M chassis began at the M04 quite a number of years ago, moving into the FWD version with the M03, and then I was graciously able to add the M01 and M02 to the stable, I have made it up to the brick walls I call the M05 and M06.

Now that a favorite mini page is gone, I dare not look for another one as it would seem most of the mini sites are geared toward SERIOUS racer/drivers only and the get into a *******ing contest with all the stuff that they do to their cars and add on stuff, etc, etc, etc. I am more looking for someone to digest the bits that Tamiya didn't get perfect and then apply that knowledge to building straight from the manual and then tweaking to perfection the cars so that I might enjoy them driving around the parking lot and such and not fret that something serious will go wrong, my driving can be bad enough at times, I don't need the added stress of some badly assembled bit bodged up by somebody who said it would work only to find it ruins some other aspect of the cars performance in an otherwise stock configuration.

What has me puzzled at the moment is the correct rear arms to buy to get rid of some of the massive toe in the M05 and 06 seem to have. I want to also put my M06 PRO back to spec per what came with the car instead of the extras the ex racer added. I do consider adding a bit more bling, but reality check has setteled in and I should just get it back to stock build which is a bit nicer than plain stock build, but that is coming too. I just have a few too many projects on the go and not enough focus at times, but that too is starting to come closer to the bullseye.

Any help and input you can give me, would be great. Thanks.

[XV Pilot 1936]

What wheels are those?

The wheels are from a company called Ride. I found them in a small hobby shop while on holiday in South Arica, so I don't know who would sell them locally.

Should I never run the alu pinion on any of my cars with just a stock motor in it?? I hate the sound of killing spur gears, but here in the good ole USA, most idiots at the hobby shop don't know squat about what pitch gear is correct for them there TAM EEEE YAA cars.

Some chassis seem harder on pinions than others, but all will wear out a soft Tamiya pinion quicker than they will wear out a good-quality steel one. Therefore to prevent problems before they start, I think it is wise to fit a steel pinion from the outset. Like most Tamiya chassis, the M-05 uses a 0.6 module pinion. Finding one on the Tower Hobbies website is indeed a challenge though!

What has me puzzled at the moment is the correct rear arms to buy to get rid of some of the massive toe in the M05 and 06 seem to have.

I believe much of the toe comes from the uprights rather than the arms. TL-01 uprights can be used to reduce the toe, however I am not sure that is a good idea - it is there to tame the handling, and the car becomes quite twitchy and unstable without it. You could always experiment I suppose. Let us know how you get on!

[Crash Cramer 617]

Well, I thank you for the answers and for also avoiding my sarcasm. I have found those wheels in a decently represented site that is in the USA, so it would stand a chance that shipping won't kill me and that I could call them to verify stock quantities etc:

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/parts.asp?parts_p_id=1282

Dorvack, here is an example of what I am getting on about:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/20068-tamiya-mini-cooper.html

Finally, I knew I would screw up, not the arms but the uprights and that is what could be the toe in issue, but understand, I would be more after the slow speed display style handling properties that the altered parts would provide, NOT the racing and speed performance. I have to start looking for more HIGH turn brushed motors so I can slow the speeds down, use a cheapy ESC and enjoy the static model looks of the cars I have built. IT would seem I have a knack for ALWAYS finding the curbs when running in an open street!@!!

Thanks and I will have to let you guys know how I am getting along.

[XV Pilot 1936]

It has been a while since I have had any progress to report on this one, but that changed today with the arrival and installation of a few new parts courtesy of www.asiatees.com. They had an Earth Day special on blue and green parts, so I thought I'd take advantage of it and add some blue to my M-05. Tempting as it was to bling it out completely, I managed to restrict myself to parts that bring about a functional improvement.

First up is the 3Racing alloy motor mount, which is a direct replacement for the stock plastic item.

With the M-05 motor almost fully enclosed by the chassis, cooling is one of my biggest concerns. An alloy motor mount that doubles as a heatsink should help in this regard.

I am quite impressed with the accuracy with which it has been machined. It is a perfect fit in the Tamiya plastics.

[XV Pilot 1936]

Next up is the steering rack.

Another 3Racing part, it is also beautifully machined and a perfect fit. Furthermore, it is a lot less wobbly than the stock plastic one.

You may also notice a 3Racing alloy turnbuckle has taken the place of the stock steering pushrod. This allows me to adjust it without popping the ball connectors off, prolonging their life and avoiding slop.

[XV Pilot 1936]

Final upgrade for the day was a set of fluorine coated ball studs. These replace the stock brass items used for the steering and shocks.

The coating on the balls makes for exceptionally smooth action.

[Crash Cramer 617]

Man, I feel bummed, not only did I miss out on an auction lot of cool Tamiya upgrades by underbidding the other day(I bid on the ball diff price and it got trumped at the last SNIPER second)DOH, but I also didn't hug mother Earth and get a discount from AsiaTees on their sale day. I will have to seriously consider my error and figure something out. Nice postings, it was like I was watching them live today as they rolled in as I read the first, then the second, and the last??? or are there more??

[XV Pilot 1936]

That's all for now. Further progress will need to wait for next payday.

With everything back together, the chassis looks and feels great. Our M-size cat approves.

It is really running well now, and TBH it is feeling a bit underpowered with just a 27t brushed motor - I think the chassis can handle a lot more. I think a nice Speed Passion sensored brushless will be my next upgrade. But how many turns to go for?

Suggestions anyone?

[Effigy3 1267]

It is really running well now, and TBH it is feeling a bit underpowered with just a 27t brushed motor - I think the chassis can handle a lot more. I think a nice Speed Passion sensored brushless will be my next upgrade. But how many turns to go for?

Suggestions anyone?

A 17.5 T would be a safe bet for the chassis, and still be compatible with plenty of headroom on the TBLE-02s, no? Much hotter than that would require a new ESC or a cooling fan.

[XV Pilot 1936]

17.5t would certainly leave plenty of headroom - the ESC is rated down to 10 turns, and runs 13.5t motors with no issues in my TT-01 and TT-02B.

I suppose it is pointless overpowering the chassis. I haven't tried anything hotter than a 27t in it so far, but I guess it would be much like my M-03. Putting anything more than a Sport Tuned in there simply generated more wheelspin, rapidly accelerating tyre wear while having a negligible effect on lap times.

So, 17.5t is where we stand so far. Anyone else care to venture an opinion?

[XV Pilot 1936]

The brushless motor arrived yesterday, and has been installed:

I went for a 13.5t in the end, as the 17.5t ones were on backorder. If I find this is too much motor for the chassis, I can always get it a 17.5t further down the line - there are plenty of cars in my fleet that could make use of the 13.5t, so it certainly won't go to waste.

With the ESC cables connecting straight to the motor, it was possible to do a neater job of routing the wiring, which is now secured with blue cable ties to complement the shell.

As a finishing touch, I added some blue alloy wheel nuts.

They are lighter than the stock steel items, so in theory should provide a small performance increase. However their primary purpose is to provide a bit of visual interest to the wheel area, which I felt was missing due to the lack of contrast between the black wheels and black tyres.

The blue alloy wheel nuts are 1mm narrower than their predecessors and leave a bit of thread available on the axles, so if I wanted to, I could go 1mm wider on the wheel hexes and gain a 2mm track width increase. Not sure if it is worth it as the wheels fit nicely in the arches as it is, but the option is there.

[Effigy3 1267]

If I ever build an M-series car, I want it to sport an Abarth body. This build looks great as always XV. I learn tons reading your build threads. Thanks for doing them.

[XV Pilot 1936]

No worries - glad they are useful!

[WillyChang 1814]

You'd want some decent tyres on Mini for anything hotter than a 540 Ride, Spice, HPI x-patts, even Tamiya Type-A

M05's front CF shocktower is handy for better shock angle, more upright like M03

[XV Pilot 1936]

The club I used to race with restricted M-chassis tyre options to 60D radials, M-grips or S-grips, so I have become rather used to them.

That said, if I ever do get back into racing, a new set of tyres will be in order if club rules permit it. Sliding around on the Tamiya stock options is fun, but not good for lap times.

I was contemplating adding a CF shock tower to my last Asiatees order, but wasn't sure if it made much difference to performance. How would you say the car benefits from more upright shocks? (Despite my years in the hobby, I confess that suspension tuning with anything other than springs and shock oil is still a bit of a black art to me.)

[WillyChang 1814]

On a large flowing track, the M05 needs the upright front shocks to match the stability of a M03... before it was available, M03 is sooo much easier to drive & tune. Otherwise the M05 just darts around with every bump, rear toein blocks don't help as much.

Yeah once you've got enough grip to traction roll, then we start tuning to avoid rolling over - until we can take every corner without lifting off. My minis are running 13T Hobbywings, CVDs, SuperMini CVAs and ball diffs.

Shocks don't travel much, what oil's in them matters little I acquired some alloy mini TRFs but they still haven't made them onto the cars yet