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The Knight

My WR-01 (Carbon) Bigfoot Monster Truck (formerly Wild Dagger) Update 2017 on Page 2

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Last week I ordered my second WT-01 monster truck. I already have a Tamiya Blackfoot III full alloy conversion but now I want a fast brushless truck, so I buy a Bush Devil II kit.

An unboxing and tuning parts video:

 

 

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First act was opening the gear box and changing the bearings. I used bearings without rubber, for softer running.

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The diff was already filled with grease.

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Next step was building the shocks.

Team C but labeld with Ansmann. 93mm shocks for rear and 85mm for front. They are very good finished, looks awesome. The sorings are very soft.

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After that I build the rear axle and implement a wheel spacer, because my beadlock rims have only +6mm offset, but I need 10-11mm like the stock rims. I see in TT-01 community Super Blackfoot axles, they are 5-7mm longer. Perfect!

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But there was a new problem: how to fill the space between hex and ball bearing. I tried this:

- rubber o-rings -> pressing to strong on the bearings and expensive

- washer -> too big

- special small rc washer -> too expensive

...think...think...think....I got it! Alloy tube from hardware store -> cheap, exactly 5mm inner width, unbreakable and easy to rebuild, if lost. :D

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I changed every tapped screw by M3 screws and small tubs. So suspension is very soft and clean and more stable than stock screws. I found two alloy hex adapters, installed only on rear axle.

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Building rear axle is same like front. C-Hubs I using are for TL-01 but fits also perfect on WT-01. Made of delrin and ball beared! The bearings are filled with rubber compared with bearings in gear box. The rubbers protect against dirt.

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For front shocks I need to change the piston rod from 51mm to 41mm. Otherwise the shocks would be too long.

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The chassis was very easy to build, only tapped screws. But for servo I have used alloy mounts from Tamiya with some spacers. Works good, but I hope the mounts don't broke again, like on my Blackfoot.

Toward Pro servo from asia, 15kg alloy gear. Kimbrough servo saver, stable and short, it don't touch the chassis.

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No big deal, after that chassis looks like this:

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Rims are made by gmade, 2.2'' beadlocks, looks awesome and mustn't be clued. The have nearly same size like stock but bit bigger and No 1 grip!

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So the "final" chassis looks like this:

uf3wxpgm.jpg vklu7yo8.jpg u5prtgdp.jpg 92864dhd.jpg

Next step brushless kit and searching for a nice looking body shell. :)

Bye for now!

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Why nort pop in a second gearbox and make it 4 wheel drive??

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Subscribed! Love the wt01. It'll really shift when you go brushless. :)

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Why nort pop in a second gearbox and make it 4 wheel drive??

I already own a WR01 4WD. WT01 is cheaper, lighter and faster with 2WD and other handling.

New truck, new ways. ;)

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Nice build so far, informative post. Subscribed!

Cheers

Nito

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I wanted to start painting this weekend, but in germany is winter coming back, so I need to stop.
Last days I finished enlarging wheel wells.

I searched many, many days to find a suitable body by 280mm wheelbase. The only I could find is the wild dagger body (but worldwide not available), every other lexan shell was toob big, too short, too small, too ugly, too unscale. So I use this toy monster truck, which I get cheap on ebay.

In some weeks there is a re-release of dagger body in sandshaker tt-02 truck. But it looks not scale as the toy truck it do.

9bl96gmo.jpg 9346vqsr.jpg ucntwyqg.jpg a5le9tm2.jpg

final look with chassis:

z4cirztm.jpg 992rp39x.jpg

I show you more pictures, when I start painting.

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Little update today. I started priming body shell last days and get my first brushless kit: Hobbywing EZrun 9T. I see it in youtube videos in a blackfoot xtreme and the cameraman means, it's a good system for WT-01.

am8qk9h4.jpg

To install the pinion I'm using a tool from CC-01:

vgm2w7gg.jpg

very useful tool!

But for test runs a good lipo is still missing. :rolleyes:

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Last 2 weeks I painted the body. Thats the worst paint job I ever made. Terrible!

The truck should looks like a replicant of Bigfoot #17 from Monster Jam.

w96y6832.jpg

I get this nice F150 toy truck, which is highly detailed and change it to a real Bigfoot body.

ital2spz.jpg

So it starts with a wrong choice of color. I want a dark blue color, but I get a baby blue! :angry:

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Who the 5&3&(%43 uses such stupid caps???

Next desaster: I bought cheap white paint but I don't know at this moment that is incompatible with my normal paint producer.

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I have painted one layer and next day the second one. The result was nearly perfect! The paint gets wrinkles over and over. I must repair it with sandpaper.

The cool two white flash stripes also gone damaged.

wsqtwnxd.jpg 2qceimr9.jpg y9zorph4.jpg wpzf873a.jpg

In some days I need to repair the breakage by using a very small brush.

NEVER buy cheap paint, guys!

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Naaaa...

Brake oil, clean the body and make the job again.

White before, than red and at last dark blue.

Max

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Naaaa...

Brake oil, clean the body and make the job again.

White before, than red and at last dark blue.

Max

Thats the way I already done. ;)

If I am ready, I'll show you the result. I using decals to "face" the misstakes.

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So guys, I am finally ready! B)

I finished the body, repaired the color and set up decals. I must say, I love the body! It looks very similar to the real Bigfoot #17:

a93g7p4i.jpg

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And this is the final Look of the WT-01 truck:

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tr99jvzb.jpg lwv9a5v5.jpg bynmjljs.jpg

I really like it, I think I have done a good job. B)
Last but not least a little video of the Bigfoot. At the next months I try to make some running videos!

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Good news! Some days before I've made the first test run. Yes, it drives! :>
The Ezrun is my first brushless kit and I must say it's not easy to steer this machine. It's fast but bit too fast! I can't drive at full speed, to big stones on my way and not enough place at my gravel pit. :D I must improve some settings, it's not perfect. I test it next time again.

Here some pictures:

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Second test run. I've changed the springs and the truck runs more stable. That's good.
But my Bigfoot fells on the roof and the flagpole gone broken. Also got some scratches. :(

f5fm68ar.jpg

So let's look on the chassis.

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I only us the parts which I really need, so I cutted some parts. The truck lose a bit weight.
The EZrun 9T combo is a very good and fast machine! Evil, on flat (clean) asphalt it drives like a rocket. :D 1a acceleration!
The hole for nimh battery I've extended a lot. So the lipo fits perfect.

jzoq86z5.jpg

See you later!

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Sry guys for the long break. I've forgotten my thread and don't drive so much with the truck.... till this year.

Now I love the truck. I've changed a lot of details, so it drives much better than in "prototype" phase.

20160507_091318Andere.jpg

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Changes:

- new Parma Bigfoot body shell, lower 10-15mm

- 20T steel pinion

- harded Tamiya diff

- locked diff

- rear harder springs

- HPI Mud Thraser tires

 

The 4300kv 9T motor works fast. Will be warm but not hot. Drives fast for this classic chassis, I think.

Feedback:

- I never buy Parma bodies and bodies with .3 thickness. After one crash it brokes on another point. I need duck tape on every site. It's not recommended for a monster truck. Too thin.

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- the harded diffs are not much better than stock. Next time I want to use GPM steel diffs.

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- all in all no fractions, chassis still stabil and no damages.

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- HPI mud thrashers glue on blacktop/tarmac very good. But they don't like lose underground and littles. They made burnouts (on 2WD).

- locked diff is an improvement. the truck do not oversteer so much, less 50%. Without locked diff, the truck drives in a circle on start, especially on lose underground.

 

Some nice youtube videos:

 

 

We will see what happens in enxt future... gabel.gifgabel.gifgabel.gifgabel.gif

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On 4/6/2015 at 5:41 AM, The Knight said:

I get this nice F150 toy truck, which is highly detailed and change it to a real Bigfoot body.

ital2spz.jpg

These bodies are great, I have fitted 1 to a custom chassis I made and another similar to a custom crawler :)

csvtbp.jpg

crawlerpd8.jpg

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How about a Wild Dagger/Stadium Raider/Sand Shaker bodyshell? The stock decals don't do it any favours but the moulding shape is spot on. With the right paint and decals, it could really look the part, and it is a good tough moulding. Mine has lasted many crashes with no damage at all.

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Today I was on an offroad track. It' a heavy track, not easy to drive. So my Bigfoot crashes very often, but the chassis have not one damage! Great.

But the thin body shell brakes on some points.

The gear wheels inside the locked diff have rubbed on hot glue -> hot glue melt -> diff was opened again. O.ô

Next try I have condensed screws inside and hot glue again. Much more than before! It's disappointing that no manufacterer produce a locked alloy diff. :(

 

1 hour ago, XV Pilot said:

How about a Wild Dagger/Stadium Raider/Sand Shaker bodyshell? The stock decals don't do it any favours but the moulding shape is spot on. With the right paint and decals, it could really look the part, and it is a good tough moulding. Mine has lasted many crashes with no damage at all.

I really like the Sandshaker body, but the stickers are more thasn ugly and holes are pre-drilled. Look on photos, it could be, that body mounting holes from WT01 are too close to the sandshaker holes.

Look -> Tamiya-Sandshaker-Karosserie-unlackiert-

20160507_200931.jpg

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I use the Tamya diff putty. Not 100% locked but tight enough to get the power down. 

 

I am am sure I have seen a diff locker but it needs the square cups not the splined ones. I will hunt and see if my memory can take me in the correct direction.

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You could just insert another metal gear in there between two of the existing ones, it's what i did with my drift TA03F.

Personally I just use really thick HPI heavy duty grease and I'm happy with the limited effect that gives.

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My WT01 handles way better with a well lubricated open diff. The locked diff combined with 10.5T brushless meant the power wasn't getting put to the ground effectively. You couldn't give full throttle else it would spin out, even in a straight line, with open diff it's much more controlled. Still does some awesome wheelies though.

I have Stadium Raider / Wild Dagger / Sand Shaker body on my WR01, the mounting holes are already in the correct position. 

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I run a Stadium Raider body on my WT-01, and it fits perfectly - other than the decals, it is identical to the Wild Dagger shell on my brother-in-law's WR-01. However judging from the photo above, for some reason they have moved the pre-drilled holes a few mm rearwards on the Sand Shaker. It might still work though - the wheel arches are pretty big.. 

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I have bid a used Dagger on ebay. So I have solved the problem with a Dagger body. ;)

So I get a complete 4WD chassis for spare parts and a body.

 

If the locked diff again fails, which diff locker I could use?

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