Bananasmoothie1975

Original Bruiser vs Mountaineer - how to tell the difference?

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I've just got hold of a very rough 3spd chassis, but is there a way to tell if it's Bruiser or Mountaineer?

Have done some googling but the wheels/tyres look the same, not sure what else to look for.

Cheers

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dave,

If you can upload some picture of the chassis you got I think it will be easy to find out what it really is.

As for some basic differences, the 1992 Mountaineer wheels are one-piece of plastic chrome, while the original 1985 Bruiser's have multi-piece. You can also look at the battery tray, If the chassis has two metal brackets attached to the tray at the front of the black radiogear box then it's Bruiser. Now if the tray fits the regular 7,2 battery pack only, and has no metal brackets, then what you have there is a Mountaineer. There's also a small couple of holes in the Mountaineer black radiogear box, but those aren't easy to spot.

If you get some picture here I'll come up with some answer on the spot, mate. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great! If you're into collecting, it's always better to have the original than the re-re, so congrats on that Bruiser.

Are you going to restore it or want to go down the usually endless modifying road with it?

Regarding pictures, you have to use some free photo host website like photbucket. It's easy, you just right click on some picture online and then just paste it here in the forums. It works pretty much as copying and pasting a piece of text.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice old dog to work with. Tons of potential! If you can't beadblast that chassis frame, then you can maybe use the dremel and some chemical stuff to get all of that rust off of it, then use some paint or varnish.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, bit of work to do ;)

Not sure which path I'll go with yet, I do have the gearbox with shafts too, but would need batt box, 750 motor, lower plastic radio cover, the all important body bits plus others that I haven't noticed yet!

Is it a total sin to mix OG with re re parts??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, bit of work to do ;)

Not sure which path I'll go with yet, I do have the gearbox with shafts too, but would need batt box, 750 motor, lower plastic radio cover, the all important body bits plus others that I haven't noticed yet!

Is it a total sin to mix OG with re re parts??

No it is not a sin to mix original parts with re-res, it is actually not possible. Drivetrains are completely different one from another. The body you can use the new one on this one without any problems, although there are differences.

Anyway, nowadays you can still find replacements. You can try bruiserbuilder, or eBay. And if you don't have the 750 motor you can get an adapter for a 540 motor from rc4wd I think.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your wallet will tell you if you can go with all original parts or re-re replacment parts. But the original parts prices have come down since the re re.

As Mongoose mentioned not all re-re part will fit the original.

I think is best to take an inventory of parts needed plus how much time will be required to clean her up, and decide if you have a diamond in the rough or a dog's breakfast and go from there.

If you are into fixing up old barn find, than this could be the project for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have been working on this old thing for a bit.

One of the chassis rails has lost most of its chrome (rust) so I wire-wheeled it back to bare steel. Same done to various smaller rust patches.

Still yet to decide on leaving it bare or chrome paint. Thoughts?

The better chassis rail has most of its chrome, have left it "as is" for now, but might look funny if I paint the other one.

Rebuilt the gearbox thanks to the excellent service manuals available, inside it was pretty clean but missing shift spring B and one of the 5x12.5mm collars. Still turns and shifts smoothly.

Cleaned the silicone from the outside, didn't reapply any new stuff and used sparing amounts of lithium grease during assembly.

How do you guys rebuild these if they are to be very lightly run (ie paved/indoors) ?

Absent parts (besides body):

Mechanical

  • Motor (anyone found a 750 motor in appliances or power tools??)
  • one 1150 bushing for diff pinion shaft

Chassis

  • rear bumper stays

Plastic

  • Lower servo box cover
  • Upper radio cover
  • Battery tray
  • Rear bumper
  • Wheel inner H parts

Rubber

  • trans/shock bushings
  • 2x shock boots
  • trans plugs

Body - all

I haven't yet scoped out the rere Bruiser instructions for parts compatibility but hoping some will be ok.

Feel free to chime in with any suggestions, I've rebuilt plenty of old rc vehicles in the past but this is my first 3 speeder!

Cheers

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking for

a) Someone with an old but complete-ish Bruiser body assembly (main bits plus grills, interiors etc). I'm good at repairing stuff, but chasing parts is way more difficult outside the US.

OR

B) Somewhere that sells a re Bruiser body parts set, I can't find one for sale, does it even exist??

Thinking a new body set would price similarly to an original set in poor/average condition. Prefer original though, as my chassis is a bit rough (chrome missing) and a new body would look out of place ;)

Also need a pair of rear bumper stays (original, or BA37 or 19804583) and a motor stay.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try model Seidel for a bruiser body, they had all the parts a few weeks ago, not sure how much shipping would be though but it is a set price no matter how much you order.

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try model Seidel for a bruiser body, they had all the parts a few weeks ago, not sure how much shipping would be though but it is a set price no matter how much you order.

Chris

Thanks Chris :)

After a bit of work it still looks rusty, have rebuilt the trans which runs/shifts smoothly, this is where it's at:

DSC00803_zps0lx2cwfp.jpg

DSC00804_zpsf5l6w8yh.jpg

DSC00805_zpsl6xvvhkv.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You may want to look for brett7366 on E-Bay US . He lists alot of Bruiser parts .

He does have a body BIN $200. US$ . I know our Aus $ is not good to the US $ .

http://www.ebay.com/sch/brett7366/m.html?item=291431247652&hash=item43daa7ef24&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

There is also samurai-japan-2009 on E-Bay , he has parts now & then .

The battery tray & the plastic parts will fit old bruiser from the re re bruiser , Even the

body parts , BUT the body parts are different in small ways & some big ways . But will fit .

As the body parts look the same in some ways , but they are way different from the original .

In design, If that makes sense ? ..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bruiser MSC has the bullet connectors to allow switch between 7.2V or 6V plugs. Mounty is hardwired to 7.2V plug I think..

As for body set if you don't care about strict originality could checkout RC4WD's Mojave body set.

Mabuchi 750SH can be found in some electronics supply stores; also as Graupner Speed700 can be used in boats so check RC boat shops. Many have gone brushless by now though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bruiser MSC has the bullet connectors to allow switch between 7.2V or 6V plugs. Mounty is hardwired to 7.2V plug I think..

As for body set if you don't care about strict originality could checkout RC4WD's Mojave body set.

Mabuchi 750SH can be found in some electronics supply stores; also as Graupner Speed700 can be used in boats so check RC boat shops. Many have gone brushless by now though.

Thanks, explains why my msc has taped joins on the battery wires.

I'm sorta aware of other Hilux bodies out there, mostly for the scale crawler guys, but my guiding theme with this build so far is to use as much original gear as possible, even if it means old/damaged parts (including the body). It'll never be a shiny new looking chassis, so hoping to find a body of similar condition :) I do realise however that even a well used Bruiser body will cost a bit!

Another possible 750SH motor source is from nitro bump start boxes, but I'm waiting for a Bruiser motor to arrive all the way from Canada (from earlier tipoffs in this thread :) )

Appreciate everyone's info!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try to get an original body for it, my friend.

For years I had a Mountaineer body over my Bruiser chassis and it was something that I could never understand or go through with. So I made a decision and got an original, and only now I can finally sit and stare at the truck and love it completely. It really worth the trouble of! And you know, in the end by selling the horrible Mountaineer body I could cover the costs of the Bruiser body and more. So I'm all smiles now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm in WA , 400 k's from perth .

There is a group of us in Perth area of sort & we meet at times for an RC bash .

So you in Perth area as well ?.

Perth thread .

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57256&page=15

Been a while since the last get together. To be honest, I was bit discouraged by the poor turnout last year. I'm going to need a bit more interest from the local contingent before I go organising another one but at least there are a few more Perth members popping up...... Wild Willy Speed Shop, Chickenman242 and now Bananasmoothie75 !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Been a while since the last get together. To be honest, I was bit discouraged by the poor turnout last year. I'm going to need a bit more interest from the local contingent before I go organising another one but at least there are a few more Perth members popping up...... Wild Willy Speed Shop, Chickenman242 and now Bananasmoothie75 !

+ Jayz7 , only done one post ! mind you .

Well i would like to do another one & may have more to come out with us .

I could see if we can use the bayswater track ?.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah sure ! Lets move this conversation back to the Perth thread and we'll see what response we get. I'm sure some of the Carine RCCC guys would be interested too !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now