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Mf-01x - suzuki jimny, mercedes g-wagen & others

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I put this on all my electronics boards you put a nice watery coat over everything and you can do it again when it dry's if you wish but I don't and I can run my stuff under water with this stuff coated over everything on the electronic boards and it drays super fast but they say let dry 24 hours.

best stuff ever!

MG Chemicals 419C Acrylic Lacquer Conformal Coating, 55 ml Bottle, Clear

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-419C-Acrylic-Lacquer-Conformal-Coating-55-ml-Bottle-Clear-New-/141724314462?hash=item20ff6d6b5e

41TQkFA97wL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

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Getting the decals on the more traditional Yellow Suzuki livery

yellowjimny.jpg

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I was looking at mine, freshly built and contemplating paint when I thought it looked a little larger than I'd expected, so I went onto the Suzuki site and checked the dimensions for scale... Seems that Tamiya have pretty much nailed 1/10th within reason.

Jimny%20dimensions_zps9eokbwud.jpg

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Great vid, did you use stock springs or did CVA's come with different? I noticed mine at rest the sag is pretty low on rear to using up like half the travel before its moving!

Got some dampers in my basket on Asiatess just looking at scale bits, though they dont call up there roof rack sizes doh!

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Great vid, did you use stock springs or did CVA's come with different? I noticed mine at rest the sag is pretty low on rear to using up like half the travel before its moving!

Got some dampers in my basket on Asiatess just looking at scale bits, though they dont call up there roof rack sizes doh!

Hi the super mini CVA'S look like they use the same exact springs as the kit shocks.

I don't have your problem you are describing with mine.

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Hi the super mini CVA'S look like they use the same exact springs as the kit shocks.

I don't have your problem you are describing with mine.

Thanks I see, mine is still stock I was meaning how is now before i get oil shocks like you have.

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Thanks I see, mine is still stock I was meaning how is now before i get oil shocks like you have.

You should have no problems they include spring spacers so you can make them softer or harder.

Use the 3 hole piston's with the shock oil they give as they get way to thick feeling if you don't.

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Great comparison Shenlonco. I did a similar thing when I built a TT02 only there the kit shocks bounced some much they lifted the other end off the ground as well 😳

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Great comparison Shenlonco. I did a similar thing when I built a TT02 only there the kit shocks bounced some much they lifted the other end off the ground as well

:) LOL! I am sure this one would have done the same I already had the CVA's on the rear in the video.

the rear stock is 100 times more bouncy than the front it just kept bouncing up and down for ever with the stock kit shocks.

Wish I would have did the comparison showing the rear stock springs compared to the CVA's ...that would have really showed a tremendous improvement for sure!

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The spring spacers just change the ride height. They don't affect the feeling of the shock unless you use non-linear springs.

Dorvack.

springs are used to change ride height also

but they do get stiffer and take more down force to make the cars suspension bottom out when you use the included shock spacers.

due to the fact without the spacers the spring is only getting compressed a little bit from the full stroke of the A arm compressing and making the car bottom out but with the spacers installed the spring gets forced to compress much more making the coils closer together there for making it harder to bottom the cars suspension out.

example would be putting a spring on a table and with a gram scale under it only compress the spring by pushing it downward 1/4 inch and see how much grams it reads... now do the same but compress it half way and the gram reading will be much greater.

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Sorry, but preload has no effect on spring rate.

The amount of force required to compress a linear spring from 0 to 1mm is the same force that is required to compress the spring from 1 to 2mm. Thus 1mm of compression will always require the same force, no matter how much the spring is compressed, so preloading the spring with spacers will not change the spring rate (its stiffness).

See Hooke's law.

Dorvack.

Yes but you missed my point when the spring on this truck is on the shock and you bottom out the suspension the spring does not get compressed a lot so when you put spacers on top it then forced the spring to get compressed much more making the coils get closer together there for making it harder to bottom out the car.

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That's another issue. Your car should bottom out before there's any coil binding, otherwise you'll damage your shock components and towers if you land heavily or at an odd angle.

Dorvack.

Not the issue here's one way to show you that with spacers these CVA'S will take more force to bottom the cars chassis down or compress the suspension.

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Ah, I understand. You've maxed out your ride height and have no sag. Ride height cannot change because it has nowhere to go, so the preload spacers only serve to compress the springs and not raise the vehicle.

By adding spacers you're not changing the spring rate. You're just compressing the spring more, which will take a greater total force.

Think of it this way: Take two springs, A and B, both 50mm long and of the same rate, both requiring 1g to compress them by 1mm.

Put a 20g weight on spring A and it will be compressed to 30mm in length. Call the weight a preload.

To compress spring A another millimeter will take 1g, for a total of 21g.

To compress spring B 1mm will take 1g, for a total of 1g.

The spring rate has not changed. The only change is the total force needed to compress the springs one more millimeter.

Make sense?

Dorvack.

Yes that is what I was trying to explain above when I said when you compress the suspension down the spring don't get compressed to much and when you put the spacers it forces the spring to compress more so it is harder.

Like above in my test the same if you had the scale with a spring laying on it and pressed it down 1/4 of the way and then all the way until the coils almost started hitting together you would get a much higher gram reading.

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Don't get too excited - looks like you've installed the wrong servo plate spacers like I did first time around. The centre of the servo horn should be in line with the line on the two chassis halves.

Also, Dorvack is right above, fundamentally you can't change the stiffness of a given spring just by increasing the pre-load or restricting the travel. The stiffness is an inherent property of the coil and the thickness of the material.

That said, there are other propeties at play when you decrease the length of the springs - ie introduce 'bind'. Once bound up, the spring requires more force to compress over the same distance. For instance, an identical spring which is longer than the shock body itself and has to be compressed in order to get the spring retainer on will feel 'stiffer' than the same spring cut down to a suitable size.

It always sounds simple in my head but appreciate reading that back it isn't so straightforward!

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Don't get too excited - looks like you've installed the wrong servo plate spacers like I did first time around. The centre of the servo horn should be in line with the line on the two chassis halves.

Also, Dorvack is right above, fundamentally you can't change the stiffness of a given spring just by increasing the pre-load or restricting the travel. The stiffness is an inherent property of the coil and the thickness of the material.

That said, there are other propeties at play when you decrease the length of the springs - ie introduce 'bind'. Once bound up, the spring requires more force to compress over the same distance. For instance, an identical spring which is longer than the shock body itself and has to be compressed in order to get the spring retainer on will feel 'stiffer' than the same spring cut down to a suitable size.

It always sounds simple in my head but appreciate reading that back it isn't so straightforward!

I put the correct ones in there is also a little side to side play in the servo when you screw it in place you can shift it side to side a bit ... I probably had it a bit to one side? I will have to take a look at it.

I know about the way springs work that's what I been trying to explain since my first reply about it?

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Don't get too excited - looks like you've installed the wrong servo plate spacers like I did first time around. The centre of the servo horn should be in line with the line on the two chassis halves.

Also, Dorvack is right above, fundamentally you can't change the stiffness of a given spring just by increasing the pre-load or restricting the travel. The stiffness is an inherent property of the coil and the thickness of the material.

That said, there are other propeties at play when you decrease the length of the springs - ie introduce 'bind'. Once bound up, the spring requires more force to compress over the same distance. For instance, an identical spring which is longer than the shock body itself and has to be compressed in order to get the spring retainer on will feel 'stiffer' than the same spring cut down to a suitable size.

It always sounds simple in my head but appreciate reading that back it isn't so straightforward!

It sounds to me like it's functionally stiffer because before suspension compression, there is already a force working against you (in the case of the bound spring). It's already under tension and trying to return to it's uncompressed state, whereas the cut down spring only begins to exert opposing force once the suspension is compressed.

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well just got done wrenching on it and fixed the off center servo!

I will tell you guy's this I hope my servo lasts a long time!

to much involved to remove a servo in this chassis that's for sure!

Good eye ChrisRx718 for noticing it!

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lol seen this conversation on motorbike forums about preload and its always the way most think jacking it up makes it firmer lol.

Thats the trouble I thought to with the servo being sandwiched like that, I need to do same to mine to add the blue servo horn!

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lol seen this conversation on motorbike forums about preload and its always the way most think jacking it up makes it firmer lol.

Thats the trouble I thought to with the servo being sandwiched like that, I need to do same to mine to add the blue servo horn!

Hi here is the kit I used and it worked out great, I used the big black C spring ring and one of the smaller gold colored ones on the servo saver and it has no play at all.

NOTE: I used the two nuts under the ball studs and then screwed them into the blue servo saver to raise them up so the steering rods run level.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-51000-Hi-Torque-Servo-saver-Speed-BSH21BL8FP-Alu-cap-set-51000H21B8-/252056591150?hash=item3aafbe5b2e#ht_3286wt_1124

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I am part way through fitting a right hand drive touring car cockpit set to mine with a Blackfoot drivers head - with some trimming its in there ok. I am not the best modeller in the world (kit builders unite! lol) but I think it will pass when finished.


Will get some pictures when its painted.


I have also used the Junfac CC-01 spare wheel mount to mount another wheel with a rally block tyre on the back - looks great although the added weight might go against me but then I have to keep remembering this is not a crawler!

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What methods are people using to mount their spare wheels?

I know of the Junfac CC-01 mounts - I use them on my Pajero shells - but I am thinking that something a little shorter would suit the Jimny, so that the spare is up against the bodywork rather than held at a distance.

Let's see some pics of your mounting solutions!

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