Mf-01x - suzuki jimny, mercedes g-wagen & others

[Scipunk]

Thanks for that Honza. Now one last question, i haven't run it yet but i tried just rolling it forward and back on the desk and it feels like it got a lot of resistance. not binding but its very strong, is this normal? My Granite BLX (arrma) is also shaft driven 4wd but brushless and is no where that hard to move. I hope i didn't put too much grease (cow RC udder butter) this is my first real kit so im not sure.

EDIT I am now wondering if i did something wrong in the front diff, on the rear i can spin one wheel and the other spins the other way, in the front i can't unless i block the back wheels and then it's very difficult. Is it supposed to not be like the rear? I may have to pull it apart to make sure

[Nobbi1977]

Take the shaft out and see how the diffs run. If one wheel goes differently to the other then you have no “limited slip” effect or an open diff. 

 

[TurnipJF]

7 hours ago, Scipunk said:

Thanks for that Honza. Now one last question, i haven't run it yet but i tried just rolling it forward and back on the desk and it feels like it got a lot of resistance. not binding but its very strong, is this normal? My Granite BLX (arrma) is also shaft driven 4wd but brushless and is no where that hard to move. I hope i didn't put too much grease (cow RC udder butter) this is my first real kit so im not sure.

EDIT I am now wondering if i did something wrong in the front diff, on the rear i can spin one wheel and the other spins the other way, in the front i can't unless i block the back wheels and then it's very difficult. Is it supposed to not be like the rear? I may have to pull it apart to make sure

Assuming that you didn't do anything different regarding diff grease or putty, the front and rear diffs should feel the same. I it sounds like the front internal diff gears might not be meshing properly. Best open it up and make sure the little cone shaped gears are meshing properly with the bigger, flatter gears on both sides. Chances are they are slightly out of sync. 

[Scipunk]

2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Assuming that you didn't do anything different regarding diff grease or putty, the front and rear diffs should feel the same. I it sounds like the front internal diff gears might not be meshing properly. Best open it up and make sure the little cone shaped gears are meshing properly with the bigger, flatter gears on both sides. Chances are they are slightly out of sync. 

Only thing i did was use the cow RC udder butter waterproof grease. Maybe i put too much in the diff. like the front diff doesn't do the one wheel spin one way and the other the other, it spins both at the same time and sometimes slips a little gonna do what ya said and open her up. I'll post a video in a few to show ya

[Scipunk]

Here ya go, sorry for the quality, it should get better after a few hours but you will see what im talking about

 

[TurnipJF]

The front diff certainly appears stiffer than the rear. Unless this has been done on purpose, say by stuffing the front one full of thick grease and leaving the rear one lightly lubed for example, it would indicate a fault. 

[Scipunk]

31 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

The front diff certainly appears stiffer than the rear. Unless this has been done on purpose, say by stuffing the front one full of thick grease and leaving the rear one lightly lubed for example, it would indicate a fault. 

Alright ill tear it down tonight and get pics in case i miss something you might not

[Scipunk]

UPDATE:

I tore down the front end, removed some excess grease, put it back together before screwing it in all was well, as soon as i screwed the screws to snug it was back but not as bad. Loosened the trans bottom screw and it got better, loosened all 3 and its fine... i am at a loss, i clearly can't run it loose if i snug the top 2 (on the front trans) and leave the bottom one about 3 turns loose its way smoother but it still has a weird chatter. maybe i just need to clean the diff and start over? i did nothing different from the rear and its fine so i am lost...lol

[Scipunk]

Update 2:

The front of the chassis is warped or something, as i have tried everything to get it to run smooth and now it does once i shimmed it where the 2 halves meet. i have to seal it, the bumper covers the front ones but its smooth as silk now. not sure what happened. 

Also yes i realzied shortly after my right shock was upside down...lol

[TurnipJF]

Are you sure that the diff bearings are pushed all the way into their holders and that the holders are pushed all the way into the chassis pieces?

If they are not fully seated, they will cause the diff to bind as the chassis is tightened. 

If the excess plastic from where the sprue was attached is not fully trimmed from the bearing holder, this can cause it to feel fully seated even when it is not. 

[Scipunk]

8 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Are you sure that the diff bearings are pushed all the way into their holders and that the holders are pushed all the way into the chassis pieces?

If they are not fully seated, they will cause the diff to bind as the chassis is tightened. 

If the excess plastic from where the sprue was attached is not fully trimmed from the bearing holder, this can cause it to feel fully seated even when it is not. 

I've triple checked everything, i can't figure out the actual cause, but i will. For now it works, i will contact Tamiya about getting a replacement parts tree for these pieces and go from there.

[Scipunk]

Tamiya is sending me parts A1 and A3 as replacements also my aluminum servo mount showed up. You don't think my servo is too wide causing warping? It;s a Savox SC-1258TG  it's 54mm wide from the mounting posts side to side. I would assume all servos except oversized or mini would be universal in width. We shall see

[78Triumph]

8 hours ago, Scipunk said:

Tamiya is sending me parts A1 and A3 as replacements also my aluminum servo mount showed up. You don't think my servo is too wide causing warping? It;s a Savox SC-1258TG  it's 54mm wide from the mounting posts side to side. I would assume all servos except oversized or mini would be universal in width. We shall see

I found when building the MF-01x that the servo mounting was really kind of annoying, with the different spacers you need to center the servo in the chassis.  Probably doesn't help you much because it looks like you got yours centered.  That's an interesting thought on the servo width though, you might be able to find some other servo specs online and see if the Savox is slightly different by a mm or or so.

[Scipunk]

14 hours ago, 78Triumph said:

I found when building the MF-01x that the servo mounting was really kind of annoying, with the different spacers you need to center the servo in the chassis.  Probably doesn't help you much because it looks like you got yours centered.  That's an interesting thought on the servo width though, you might be able to find some other servo specs online and see if the Savox is slightly different by a mm or or so.

Yeah definitely not their finest engineering but it works, lemme tell ya i tired all 3 shims 4 x before i got it right in my eyes...lol  I have a feel it is a touch bigger, i'll get the post updated with findings. 

[dc-arena]

On 1/3/2019 at 3:20 AM, TurnipJF said:

"0.6 module" is the pitch of the pinion gears used by the MF-01X. It refers to the size and shape of the teeth required to mesh properly with the spur gear.

The chassis can take pinions from 16 to 20 teeth. The Amazon set would therefore not be ideal, as the smaller pinions wouldn't fit, and the set doesn't contain the larger pinions that would fit. Personally I would pick the gear ratios I wanted from page 20 of the manual and order my pinions individually. Robinson Racing and RW Racing are good brands to get.  

While I was at it, I would order a Speed Passion MMM 13.5t motor. The motor cables plug into the rear, making it easier to fit than the Trackstar. It also performs a bit better for similar money. 

 

Do you know what size/type of bullet connectors the MMM Speed Passion needs? Are the sizes universal between all 540 motors? I am new to upgraded motors so not really sure what I would need.

I guess I also need bullets for the other ends of the cable, then the same bullets on the ESC to connect it all up? I’ll be using the Tamiya TBLE-02S for a while at least.

[TurnipJF]

42 minutes ago, dc-arena said:

 

Do you know what size/type of bullet connectors the MMM Speed Passion needs? Are the sizes universal between all 540 motors? I am new to upgraded motors so not really sure what I would need.

I guess I also need bullets for the other ends of the cable, then the same bullets on the ESC to connect it all up? I’ll be using the Tamiya TBLE-02S for a while at least.

I am not sure of the bullet size, but they are supplied with the motor so don't need to be bought separately.

The male sides of the connectors are integral with the motor, which is supplied with a good quality set of matching female bullet connectors for you to solder to your ESC cables in place of the not-terribly-good pressed metal stock ones. 

 

 

[dc-arena]

9 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

I am not sure of the bullet size, but they are supplied with the motor so don't need to be bought separately.

The male sides of the connectors are integral with the motor, which is supplied with a good quality set of matching female bullet connectors for you to solder to your ESC cables in place of the not-terribly-good pressed metal stock ones. 

 

 

Ah, so the motor comes with the motor side bullets, and a further set of male/female bullets for connecting to an ESC?

[TurnipJF]

2 hours ago, dc-arena said:

Ah, so the motor comes with the motor side bullets, and a further set of male/female bullets for connecting to an ESC?

The motor has the male bullets built in, and comes with a set of corresponding female bullets for soldering to your ESC cables. 

[dc-arena]

28 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

The motor has the male bullets built in, and comes with a set of corresponding female bullets for soldering to your ESC cables. 

Thanks. I think I will need to extend the length though as it wont reach from the ESC placement to the motor. That's why I assume the best option is to get 3 lengths of wiring and extend it somehow. The best route of that (in my head is): New wiring with female connectors going into motor. Other end of those wires have another set of bullets on that connects to the ESC (which will need corresponding new bullets on too). That's the only way I can think of to extend it. I just need to know what bullets to get for the ESC to new wiring section, if you get me

 

 

[TurnipJF]

32 minutes ago, dc-arena said:

Thanks. I think I will need to extend the length though as it wont reach from the ESC placement to the motor. That's why I assume the best option is to get 3 lengths of wiring and extend it somehow. The best route of that (in my head is): New wiring with female connectors going into motor. Other end of those wires have another set of bullets on that connects to the ESC (which will need corresponding new bullets on too). That's the only way I can think of to extend it. I just need to know what bullets to get for the ESC to new wiring section, if you get me

 

 

Ah, I see. I didn't realise you needed to extend the wires. Mine fits fine with the stock wire length since I moved the ESC rearward to where the instructions say the receiver should go. 

I have just measured one of my Speed Passion connectors, which appears to be 3.5 mm. (I say "appears to be" because I measured it with a metal ruler since I do not have a set of calipers.)

A set of connectors such as these should do the trick for your needs.

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-3-5mm-gold-bullet-connectors-3pr-/rc-car-products/384315

[dc-arena]

Cheers! Sorry, do you know what sort of diameter (gauge?) wire I should get?

[TurnipJF]

1 hour ago, dc-arena said:

Cheers! Sorry, do you know what sort of diameter (gauge?) wire I should get?

14awg seems to be a safe bet, with many commercially available adapters and suchlike using this gauge.

[FCUL78]

Any luck racing these MF01X against M07s? 

My friends all ‘race’ M07 around a makeshift track every weekend on asphalt. 

I own 2 MF01X but they are built for off road crawling and slow motors installed. 

Thinking of adding a 3rd MF01X to my fleet and building it with the lower ground clearance option, some TRF shocks and maybe the YR suspension arm kit (but I fear they don’t stand up to the frequent accidents). 

Checkout my G320s https://photos.app.goo.gl/Gntb8L3DDbqPajrE6

[FCUL78]

Oh is there a foam bumper that fits the MF01X?

[Juls1]

The YR arm kit will help, I doubt you’d bust it. 

I dont think the mf01x will be even slightly competitive against the M07 though. The MF01x was never designed for that. 

Juls