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ChrisRx718

GPM CC01 steering bell-crank setup - overrated

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....Discuss.

As per the title, I recently purchased 2 of these sets (for my unhealthy obsession of CC01s) and have fit them without issue. However, upon running them I noticed the suspension had a tendency to 'bind' and overall travel was restricted. On closer inspection on the bench this is due to the lack of 'give' in the new aluminium parts.

This setup would be ideal on a road car since it does dramatically reduce steering play, however it also restricts suspension travel to what I reckon is no more than 15mm - a bit pants for an off-road vehicle.

I wonder if anyone has modified this setup to perform better?

I'm likely to re-install the standard suspension (or at least just the bellcranks) on my Pajero, whilst I'm keen to look into the panhard setup I've seen online for my CC01 Blackfoot project. Either way, in my opinion, this GPM hop-up considered 'holy grail' of upgrades seems like it's a bit impractical for the intended purpose.

Discuss!

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I have just had a close look at my CC-01 Pajero with the GPM steering rack fitted, and I can't see how it can be responsible for any binding. Even at the extremes of suspension travel and steering throw, there is still free movement of the tie rods.

Since the alloy rack parts recreate the basic geometry of the plastic parts, and the model doesn't rely on flex of the plastic rack parts for adequate suspension travel in stock form, I can't see how the alloy rack would make any difference to the situation.

The lower plate is another story though. Many people report having to shave a bit off here to ensure adequate suspension travel, especially once fitting the GPM kit, as its ball links are slightly lower than on the stock part.

Luckily the area that needs to be shaved is hidden when the plate is installed, so shaving it does not affect the looks of the car, even from below.

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Most of the panhard setups I have seen look like they would introduce a lot of bump steer.

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Have 2 on mine no problems at all.

maybe you installed something wrong? this happens a lot since they don't have instructions in the kits.

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Between Wifey and I, and our CC01 fetish, I think we have 2 sets each, never had this problem.

All of them have needed a shorter screw in the bottom of one of the cranks, and everything loctite-d, but never this problem.

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Mines brilliant. Better than the coathanger wire from factory.

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IMO the problem with the CC-01 steering has little to do with the actual steering rod links . Have a read of this artical . Its how i modified my steering and it works perfectly with nice precise control and no loss of suspension travel .

https://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=499#.VTYn1iFViko

i've also done the front suspension mods Joe shows but in all honesty they dont make a vast difference - slight improvement but IMO not worth the effort involved .

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Thats Ok. You want nothing but the best for you favourite. I got the Gmade skit plate and Tamiya's parts for extra travel for the rear end, but cause the drive shaft to rub against the skit plate. What can i do?unless i grind away the skit plate, whichu won't do. But is does look cool with all the bling bling. The key is whatever makes you happy and no one else.

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Thats Ok. You want nothing but the best for you favourite. I got the Gmade skit plate and Tamiya's parts for extra travel for the rear end, but cause the drive shaft to rub against the skit plate. What can i do?unless i grind away the skit plate, whichu won't do. But is does look cool with all the bling bling. The key is whatever makes you happy and no one else.

The thing with the CC-01 is that its being around so long that are so many so called Hop-ups for it . Some work - some are just Bling . Personally i would rather to save my money and buy what actually works but if there is a DIY fix then i enjoy fabricating the parts myself . Point in case - the extended rear drop links . Tamiya parts are all well and good but for under £2.00 you can use a couple of 3/4 inch cycle chain links to get exactly the same result .

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Most of the panhard setups I have seen look like they would introduce a lot of bump steer.

Oh yes, mine did!

38a8997a6bee94bfcd9583d17b3e5159_zpsfd62

But as it was a scale crawler it didn't make a lot of difference... the turning circle was huge though with a locked front diff and very different from left to right.

Sad to say it but best upgrade I found for the CC01 was to get an SCX10 😉

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Oh yes, mine did!

38a8997a6bee94bfcd9583d17b3e5159_zpsfd62

But as it was a scale crawler it didn't make a lot of difference... the turning circle was huge though with a locked front diff and very different from left to right.

Nic the stock steering improved as per Joe's mods is IMO the best fix . Couple of 1150 bearings , bit of treaded tube . Cheap , simple but it works

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Well now I'm second guessing myself, but I have installed it as per the standard bits which came off. Perhaps I have done it wrong. I'll get some pictures of my problem...

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Steering neutral, no suspension compression -

DSC_0218.jpg

Steering full lock, full compression -

DSC_0219.jpg

Steering neutral again, ball-end binding on GPM aluminium bell-crank, limited compression -

DSC_0220.jpg

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The tie rod ball is supposed to be on the bottom of the steering arm on the hub. That would also create a lot of bump steer.

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