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Kyosho Tomahawk rere'd

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If I recall, it wasn't shrink-wrapped, but it was sealed shut with circles of clear tape. But don't quote me on it.

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That is precisely what I am running in my Tomahawk.. Novak Impact 17.5. Its perfect combo. You will probably want the impact or edge esc if you plan on using the driver figure, because the larger ESC will not fit unless you have a low profile heat sink

You were not kidding about the ESC height issue when using the driver figure :( I pulled out the driver figure and a ruler, it looks like there is only about 22mm in total vertical clearance between the radio plate/inside the driver figure :(

I was thinking about using an older Novak GTB/17.5SS combo, but the GTB esc has a total height of 23mm, no way it will fit if I use the driver figure :o

I can see why you recommend the Edge/Impact esc, at only 20mm in height, they will just clear B)

I guess I will be looking at getting an Edge combo :D

I measured to see if my older Novak Rooster or Tekin Rebel would fit with the driver, nope, both of these ESC's are too tall :(

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Dave you might have missed the cheap boats of these.

I picked mine up from RC Mart at $220 US. They only had 4 left a month ago. Just checked and are out of stock now.

Mine still came to almost $400 AU once posted and conversion fee as Wifey cracked it. ( X Mas present)

Just found this is the best price and will be slightly cheaper then mine 281849678405

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Where is the cheapest place to buy these now?

I have just asked a mate at Perth RC , to see if he has more coming .

The last lot he sold was $315. Aus Then for you postage as well .

I will let you know if you still want one ?.

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I painted my Tomahawk re-re's body set this past weekend, and got the driver figure 90% painted, just a little detail work left to do on the driver (face, hands, wheel). I hope to get my Tomahawk built over the Christmas Holiday B)

EDIT - I have a Novak Edge 17.5 brushless system under the Christmas tree just waiting to be installed, too :DB)

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Awesome Kit.

Mine is all built and ready to do battle at Boondal. Kyosho have addressed the small problems that the Scorpion had. I had no issues with the gearbox being tight at all or the rear suspension binding like I did with my Scorpion .

The quality is just awesome. Love the pre cut body and decal sheet. Was a snap to get a Box art finish.

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Hey Tomahawkers :) Any of you with the re-re kit know if you can fit the UJ set-up from an Ultima RB6? I had posted in the general Kyosho category but no replies :mellow: -> http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=78970&hl=

Edit: I see you can fit Kyosho SCW012 'Universal Drive Shaft Option Scorpion 2014' to get UJs and SCW020 'Hex Driver Washer Set Scorpion 2014' for hex wheel adapters (if anyone had them in stock!) ... but would still be interested to know if you can fit Ultima RB6 shafts?

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For those of you in the know, or willing to take an educated guess, could a Reedy Radon 17t brushed motor be ok in the Tomahawk?

It's the only motor I've got available and I want to build it today, but the kit states "30T-27T brushed motor recommended for scale performance" and I don't want to do something that's plain stupid.

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I think you'll be fine with that motor, use the smallest gear you can and monitor the temps.

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Thanks, then I'll give it a go with the Reedy and swap later on if it gets too hot.

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Has anyone been able to fit the transparent plastic shock seal in step 11 without going mental in the process? If so I'd be extremely interested and eternally grateful for any pointers or hints.

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You're not alone!

I successfully installed 3 and ruined 1 during my scorpion rebuild. For the tomahawk I didn't even bother and purchased the HG hop up shocks outright. This is how I kept my sanity

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Thanks, for the consolation Raman! Glad to hear I'm not alone. And I think it might be best to order some of those HG shocks, seeing as setting the car on fire is about the only thing I haven't tried yet.

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You would be better off, the kit shocks are impossible to bleed and make them work

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Has anyone been able to fit the transparent plastic shock seal in step 11 without going mental in the process? If so I'd be extremely interested and eternally grateful for any pointers or hints.

The best tip I can give is to place the seal on the threads. From there, I just use my fingers and push until it moves it a couple threads, I then turn the piston unit 90° and reapeat. Keep doing this till you have cleared the threads. Took me about a minute each.
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+1 Theibault And put some shock oil on the threads also so it slides on better.

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The best tip I can give is to place the seal on the threads. From there, I just use my fingers and push until it moves it a couple threads, I then turn the piston unit 90° and reapeat. Keep doing this till you have cleared the threads. Took me about a minute each.

+1 Theibault And put some shock oil on the threads also so it slides on better.

Yep, that is what I did on my Tomahawk, no problem B) My biggest problem with those clear seals, I almost threw them away when I did not see them in the package :blink::blink:

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I guess the first step is admitting you have a problem. Tried Theibault & shenlocos suggestions, 5 minutes later four seals are right where they should be. All kinds of thanks and salutations!

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Just to revive the thread - mine is assembled, awaiting for the paintwork (boxart, as always).

Not the most straight forward kit to build, especialy the front end; to get it set-up symmetrical one needs to pay close attention. Also the shocks are not easy to bleed right, then bind a bit. No intention to go for HGs, though - I want it bone stock.

Electronics were chosen more as a color-match (as much as possible) rather than best fit; the motor is a 3930kV with 10T (the car will sideslip @ 40km/h going from 50% throttle to 100% - I need lower gearing for sure). Another problem is that the height of the ESC with the fan mounted precludes the use of the driver figure/protective cover... Oh well!

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