Nobbi1977 1793 Posted May 10, 2015 I got this box of bits from another user on here. About 90% complete plus about 5% extra bits included. Most of a parts bag and one U clip was missing. The bag was expensive for the bits I needed so I used Hop-Ups where needed. Being an old kit I have to build the gearboxes. One bit I could not get was the 34mm shafts so I had to make a pair out of longer ones Building the gearboxes Diff Putty again Camera went flat here so we will have to skip too Much needed shock towers Diff Cups were missing so these looked about right O-rings found in the garage I had these in stock Outer cups were included, I have these hardened ones but have not fitted them yet. All ready to go WoooHoo LIDL special Hexes. They were cheaper in this colour PLAN B If i happen to not like this I had a plan B. Custom shortened chassis would be needed so I mocked something up. What do you think? Back to Plan A Saver is a bit shorter but we will see if it all works OK Just because At this point I should have stopped drinking or put the model down. I will need to fit the servo in the correct place in the morning Body came painted. Not a bad job. The red is real nice but the black is the wrong type of paint so flaking off. Took it for a spin around the garden and it is fun. The Boom shocks are not great so I need to work on them 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted May 10, 2015 Interesting - have you gone for rear wheel steering? Or are the body mounts just switched around? Either way, looks like fun! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbi1977 1793 Posted May 10, 2015 No rear wheel steering, I will check the mounts. I guess I should have printed the manual rather than doing it from memory. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted May 10, 2015 With the chassis being basically symmetrical, there is no shame in getting things back-to-front, especially if working without a manual. Looking forward to seeing some pics/vids of it running! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisRx718 4470 Posted May 10, 2015 Looks good. My Mud Blaster is my favourite runner, it takes an absolute beating. I used the same hi-torque servo saver and it's fine - Obviously adjust the tie rods so you don't end up with too much toe-in though. The servo posts are much more than just bling on this chassis - they're pretty essential as the stock plastic posts aren't beefy enough for the big wheels acting on them, introducing lots of flex. Only thing I'm finding with mine is an incline for rolling over under anything but minimal throttle - partially my fault I'm sure for fitting the 11T brushless system, but I also run the widest stance setup and I'm considering adding some adjustable upper arms for some negative camber... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbi1977 1793 Posted May 10, 2015 I did a couple of good rolls today and a forward flip when braking turned in to reverse. I need to get used to the quickrun ESC, it engages reverse a lot easier than the Tamiya ones. I have left the top deck clear as I was considering running 3s on the silver cans for a giggle. I did find it does not jump as well as my Mud Blaster, with the extra gearbox at the front and the servo it is a bit nose heavy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted May 10, 2015 I find my WR-01 comes into its own when asked to tackle really rough terrain at relatively low speeds. It can jump if it has to, but my WT-01 is far better at going fast, jumping high, etc. Horses for courses and all that... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbi1977 1793 Posted May 11, 2015 I find my WR-01 comes into its own when asked to tackle really rough terrain at relatively low speeds. It can jump if it has to, but my WT-01 is far better at going fast, jumping high, etc. Horses for courses and all that... Guess I need to find some fast rough terrain Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbi1977 1793 Posted May 11, 2015 Quick play tonight Starting point Boom Racing shocks are awful as stock. I was going to swap them out but they were not cheap so I though I better fix them. Hard to see here but when I stripped this one the holes were blocked where they had not been drilled properly All the four shocks had different size holes in the pistons and the E clip covers a bit of the holes on all of them. One shock had different size holes in one shock. All the holes were far to small to work properly so I re-drilled them all the same size. I picked a size close to the Tamiya pistons in CVAs. The springs are weak in these as well, I am running the hardest but they are still soft. Because they are progressively wound they give a lot of sag, I think this is good for this chassis. Refitted and ready to go. I have moved the bottom mount in one hole, this should let the body roll a bit more in the turns. Next job. While I was playing with shocks I noticed the spacers on the sprue Perfect All ready to roll again I might have to play with the shocks on my WT-01 now................... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted May 11, 2015 The stance looks good! Is it my imagination, or is the back wheel mounted wrong way round relative to the tyre? I have a feeling it may belong on the other side of the vehicle, and one of the wheels from the other side might belong in its place. The tyres aren't glued I hope? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbi1977 1793 Posted May 14, 2015 The stance looks good! Is it my imagination, or is the back wheel mounted wrong way round relative to the tyre? I have a feeling it may belong on the other side of the vehicle, and one of the wheels from the other side might belong in its place. The tyres aren't glued I hope? I had never thought about the wheels being directional.... ... Just checked and you are correct. Tyres are not glued but they need to be, I can hear them squeaking. Just had a run around the garden and the shock set up is better but it is still easy to roll. I moved the shocks to the outer holes on the arms and I got a bit better. I think these shocks need stronger springs for a model of this weight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisRx718 4470 Posted May 15, 2015 I built some turnbuckles for mine earlier, to try to prevent the whole rollover tendency. I made them from some 5mm adjusters and a couple of spare tie-rods (I think originally from a TL01) and after test-fitting the front I set about making 2 more for the rear...only to realise that the rear upper arms are longer than the front. Bummer! Will report back on whether it does anything toward preventing spills though. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbi1977 1793 Posted May 15, 2015 I was looking at doing the same. I also thought about using front arms on the rear to give a wider track but this would need longer bones and I am not sure you can get any longer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted May 15, 2015 I made some super beefy adjustable upper arms for my WR-01 using Traxxas rod ends and thick stainless steel threaded rod, but after much experimentation with different amounts of camber, found the stock length to be pretty much ideal. So when I built my WT-01, I just used the stock plastic upper arms. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbi1977 1793 Posted May 17, 2015 Ok I do not have a big garden and I hit everything in it https://youtu.be/gLt2xTMqj_Q https://youtu.be/_u8xwjX5vYY Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonysmini 19 Posted May 23, 2015 Daggers seem to be coming back into fashion. Looks like you've done pretty much the same mods I do on mine (have 3 between me and both kids.) I found the stock driveshafts bent easily, especially the front ones. Thunder shot CVD's fit or if you want really heavy duty, dog ones from the Ofna Dominator fit too (and are about twice the thickness of the stock ones. I found keeping the suspension lower stopped the traction roll, my lower arms are almost parallel to the ground. Lifting it too high causes the left hand steering arm to rub the gearbox and lift the wheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbi1977 1793 Posted May 23, 2015 Daggers seem to be coming back into fashion. Looks like you've done pretty much the same mods I do on mine (have 3 between me and both kids.) I found the stock driveshafts bent easily, especially the front ones. Thunder shot CVD's fit or if you want really heavy duty, dog ones from the Ofna Dominator fit too (and are about twice the thickness of the stock ones. I found keeping the suspension lower stopped the traction roll, my lower arms are almost parallel to the ground. Lifting it too high causes the left hand steering arm to rub the gearbox and lift the I still have a lot of experimenting to do. What shocks are you running? I think part of my roll problem is the LiPo pack is so much lighter than the old batteries Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonysmini 19 Posted May 23, 2015 Two are running CVA's from a TB01 in the stock locations (drilled through the gearbox mountings and fitted an M3 bolt, washers and nylocs as the stock self tappers cause stress cracks, the third runs GPM shock towers and the front shocks from an Axial Wraith. Running it lower stopped most of my grip rolling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ritchie 6 Posted May 23, 2015 pics look good, i am building/restoring a wild dagger with torque tuned motors, alloy suspension arms, ally camber arms, fullly ball raced, looking for new decals for the body, any advice guys would be appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisRx718 4470 Posted May 23, 2015 Just be wary of the alloy suspension arms - where they attach to the chassis is quite a major part of the car, so adding rigidity to the arms increases the likelihood of damaging the mounting points. It's a royal pain having to dismantle an entire gearbox just to resolve a breakage in that area. The stock plastic items are very good at absorbing a lot of impact. Straight out of the box they are strong enough - many recommend the alloy suspension towers as per this thread, which do look good, but to be honest I've never managed to break a stock plastic one yet - doing plenty of jumps! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonysmini 19 Posted May 24, 2015 As Chris said, the alloy arms look good but you will break the gearbox cases if you have a hard crash. The stock ones don't look very bling but they flex enough to absorb pretty much anything. I made up some top arms with ball ends and threaded rod, simply because I had it spare from various Axial rig builds. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bromvw 744 Posted May 25, 2015 Just read the whole thread as I've being away for a while . Great build . I last built a modified Wild Dagger almost 2 years ago and its still going strong . I went a bit OTT - 4x4x4 and alloy everything . However it was well worth it as no matter how much abuse I give it nothing has broke . I think that may be down to the oversize Clod wheels and massive Kyosho tires I have on it . They seem to soak up a lot of the impacts lol 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted May 25, 2015 Looking at the participants in this discussion, and at their locations, it would appear that most of us who are interested in WR01/WT01s are based in or around Lincolnshire. Lincs Dagger Meet anyone? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbi1977 1793 Posted June 4, 2015 I just tried this on 3S, just a soft 1000mah pack. Without a normal battery in the bottom it just flips over backwards on power and rolls forward on brakes. I think the quickrun swaps from brake to reverse a bit fast for my likeing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
