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80sBasher

Working with a re re and the hobbywing 1060 brushed esc

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Currently building a re re Super Hot Shot and chose the hobbywing 1060 esc for its built in LIPO fail safe and a few other things it odes better than the stock esc in the kit. When installing though the power switch has a really short lead and doesn't seem to reach the on off switch location on the super hot shot body, which I presume is the same location as for the hot shot, for those that may have installed in a hot shot.

Also in the kit we're meant to place screws down through the body via pre-drilled holes, into the switch. The 1060's pre-wired switch is smaller than the stock Tamiya one and doesn't have holes to receive these screws.

With that said, what's the recommended mounting solution for the power switch ? Currently I have it temporarily serve taped under the access panel, which is a pain as I have to take the body off each time to turn the car on.

Any ideas or examples greatly appreciated.

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Hi my friend I use the quicrun 1060 esc's in all my tamiya buggies. Unfortunately the standard position for the on off switch doesn't really suit a hotshot chassis as the esc's design is more suited for modern set ups. Is the swith lead long enough to bring it out the same recess as the esc battery leads?. Other than that the quicrun switch attached to the esc itself.

Steve.

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I'd attach the switch to the ESC, set up the ESC, then leave the switch in the 'on' position, and button up the mechanism box.

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I cut them off and join the wires while soldering on new battery connectors.

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Hmmm interesting idea about just turning it on and closing up the box. Other than the remote chance of the car running off (I always turn my controller on first) , does it actually do any harm to hot swap a lipo with the esc in the on position ? If not, then I think I'll just do that.

I'm not worried about slight degradation, this car will probably only get a few hundred runs.

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I've already done a couple of 'hot' power on switches with my 1060 using a 3S LiPo with no problems , so I think you'll be fine.

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I've already done a couple of 'hot' power on switches with my 1060 using a 3S LiPo with no problems , so I think you'll be fine.

Same here, in a Super Shot re re

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Thanks for the tip, glad I don't need to continually remove the body to turn it off and on as I could see the nose area cracking really easily over time.

On that front I used some metal tape to reinforce likely crack areas around the nose, post hole and side panels.

Had a blast taking it out for its first run this weekend with my kids, thing was catching air and doing power slides like a nutter.

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