Matt888 61 Posted June 7, 2015 I was thinking of getting one of these for the Sand scorcher, but I was wondering apart from looking good is there any noticeable difference in the way the car drives. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221791350126?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grastens 2795 Posted June 7, 2015 Yes! The suspension actually functions - the chassis no longer flexes under what should be suspension load, which improves predictability in handling. Now, given that it is the SRB that may not mean much, but having driven a Buggy Champ so modified I can tell you it does! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skinned 134 Posted June 8, 2015 you will also save you body from breaking if you get one of these..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfdogstinkus 1893 Posted June 8, 2015 I don't own a scorcher so maybe wrong but it also allows use of a stick pack battery? if you aren't using the radio box. Others will confirm if this is true. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grastens 2795 Posted June 8, 2015 I don't own a scorcher so maybe wrong but it also allows use of a stick pack battery? if you aren't using the radio box. Others will confirm if this is true. That depends on what type of aftermarket chassis you use. Some have provisions for battery straps and a direct-steering servo mount, allowing fitment of a stick-pack battery, but the example I had featured the same shape as stock and so I used the radio box anyways. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted July 15, 2015 I have the alloy chassis plate in my Scorcher. It didn't have the holes for the servo mount, so I drilled them myself. I used a low profile servo, and was able to run a hard case lipo battery without any issues. As for my opinion of handling differences, I can't comment because I fitted it during the initial build, so I can't compare. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andysbodys 1 Posted October 18, 2015 The full vw style pan aluminum chassis I made came out at 7 oz. vs the stock 3oz chassis. Out of curiosity how much do the other chassis weigh? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
njmlondon 570 Posted October 19, 2015 I have the alloy chassis plate in my Scorcher. It didn't have the holes for the servo mount, so I drilled them myself. I used a low profile servo, and was able to run a hard case lipo battery without any issues. As for my opinion of handling differences, I can't comment because I fitted it during the initial build, so I can't compare. Do you have any more photos of your steering set up? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
7.3L PSD 6 Posted November 1, 2015 Do you have any more photos of your steering set up? X2 on this question. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted November 1, 2015 Here you go, sorry for the late reply.. These pics were during the build. I ended up not using the clear electronics box. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tamiya monkey 243 Posted November 21, 2015 I notice you have the Rcchannel shocks fitted, ive been looking at these for sometime as im fed up of re-filling my originals after every run, could you let me know how you've found them and are they worth upgrading to. Regards Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted November 22, 2015 I wasn't too fond of them, and have since removed them. They were too stiff and didn't have much travel. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moffman 5752 Posted November 22, 2015 I must admit I've got a scorcher with after market and hop-up parts on it and a total stock one(apart from rcchannel bumper and sport tuned motor) and I do like the stock one because it handles a bit knaff and its a bit more unpredictable without a diff and that to me is fun! My other scorcher and fighting buggy has the diffs in and scorcher has the chassis and although good they become a bit more sensible which takes half the fun away IMO! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tamiya monkey 243 Posted November 22, 2015 Has anyone tried shocks off the 1/14th trucks or hi-lift etc with the internal spring, i really want to keep it looking stock but reduce time re-filling the shocks. mine run empty most of the time anyways. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
njmlondon 570 Posted November 22, 2015 Has anyone tried shocks off the 1/14th trucks or hi-lift etc with the internal spring, i really want to keep it looking stock but reduce time re-filling the shocks. mine run empty most of the time anyways. I have a 60mm and 70mm set of RC4WD Ultimate Scale shocks which have internal springs (5 different strength springs to chose from) and are only lubtricated with oil rather than damped. Perfect for the SRB. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raman36 1656 Posted November 23, 2015 These is also this option that Dwayne is working on http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=77510&hl= I have the finalised version.. if you plan on running the torsion bars it works fine. If you want to do coil overs, the big diameter current buggy dampers will rub on paddle track tyres, but not on the Sand Blasters, since those rims have a more + offset. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neverfollow 599 Posted November 26, 2015 I drilled my roll bar and mounted hi-caps at the rear of mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JennyMo 3526 Posted November 26, 2015 I'd agree with njmlondon - I've got the 70mm versions of the RC4WD Old Man Emu shocks on my SRB Cage Racer, and also on the front of the Frog-Scorcher here: 70mm would be too long for the rear unless you moved the upper mountings though. Jx Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raman36 1656 Posted December 16, 2015 Was building a new SRB last night. For the shocks I decided to swap out the red o-ring with the clear TRF version. After I bled them, they seem to be working well. I used the same o-ring on my bruiser re-re and they drastically improved the dampers. Let's see how well they hold up against leaking Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
