Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Matt888

Sand Scorcher front dampers.

Recommended Posts

Has anyone upgraded their front dampers? The standard ones on mine have leaked out so i was looking to put some coil overs on, just wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction.

I've found some Fastrax 75mm ones but not sure if they would fit, as the standard ones are 70mm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe that the shocks for the Losi Mini T can be used.. Don't quote me on it, but it is something that you can look into..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, they're the right ones.

You'll also need to sort out the bottom spring platform and mount, I used original SRB mount and Hornet D13

part with the ball cut off.

Hope that helps.

Rich

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Trick I learned recently which applies to the Re-re SRB dampers as well as the Hornet damper. Use the White /

clear Tamiya o-ring in place of the red (Re-re SRB) and black hornet. It will stop leaks and greatly improve dampening. For the hornet do not use the red o-ring because they will break when you stretch them onto the brass fitting. The clear hop right on

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can go many ways. A non scale looking touring car damper that will work killer but look ugly a sin. A coil spring and collar set for the stock dampers will improve their performance and keep the stock look.

image_zpse7d7f0bf.jpg

On this buggy I used the CRP Shock tower extensions to run longer dampers up front

030606005.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fin man that is a interesting transmission lay out. Have you had a chance to run in that configuration?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Shodog,

The project hasn't really progressed since that picture.

It's a Citroen 2cv with front wheel drive. It's using SRB front suspension front and rear with a Kyosho front hubs. The gear box is an RC10 stealth using a RS380 motor - was never going to be a fast car, it's supposed to be about the suspension - plenty of lean. Now trying to sort out the steering and then lock the steering on the 'rear'.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting topic.

Thought about improving the handling on one of my SRB's by installing the Tam-Tech aeration damper set (part number 40513).

The longer dampers for the front and the shorter ones for the back.

Has anybody here on TC done this yet?

This damper set seems to be sold out pretty much everywhere.

Cheers,

dabigbozz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting topic.

Thought about improving the handling on one of my SRB's by installing the Tam-Tech aeration damper set (part number 40513).

The longer dampers for the front and the shorter ones for the back.

Has anybody here on TC done this yet?

This damper set seems to be sold out pretty much everywhere.

Cheers,

dabigbozz

I have tried these - problem i had was the springs aren't strong enough, the front are at best ok but the rears just wouldn't return after compression.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The TamTech dampers are also extremely over priced for what they are. I own them on my GT01 and you end up buying 4 long ones and then buying the short cases for the rear.. Results as fin man says are not great.. The SRB is too heavy.

Try building the kit dampers with the White TRF o-rings. Then fill with oil, place piston in and screw in end cup one turn, push piston in and bleed out excess oil. Then tighten end cap with 8mm wrench. Install brass shock end.. Test shock. You will be impressed with results.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/17/2015 at 9:27 PM, Raman36 said:

Try building the kit dampers with the White TRF o-rings. Then fill with oil, place piston in and screw in end cup one turn, push piston in and bleed out excess oil. Then tighten end cap with 8mm wrench. Install brass shock end.. Test shock. You will be impressed with results.

Aware this a 5 year old thread....

...but just in case anyone is listening, I'm coming up against this and am going to try the TRF o-rings - when you say "push piston in" do you mean fully in, or approx 1/3 as stated in the instructions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/30/2020 at 2:52 PM, No Cheese Tonight said:

Aware this a 5 year old thread....

...but just in case anyone is listening, I'm coming up against this and am going to try the TRF o-rings - when you say "push piston in" do you mean fully in, or approx 1/3 as stated in the instructions?

Just test it to your likes! I think 1/3 will cause a hydraulic bump stop in the end: You shouldn´t be able to compress the shock fully? These Shocks have no piston rod volume compensation. So these additional bump "cushion" causes high pressure inside the shock, because there is too much oil (which is not compressible) in it. This is what causes most of the Rere shocks to leak during use. If you compress it fully and then close it, as Raman explained, these shocks work really good, better than the originals from 1979. In fact the sealing and guide area is fully identical to the Rere Hicaps, which are not known to leak. So why should the SRB ones, when assembled correctly? Proper O-rings are a must.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks rubiracer, feel like I'm having a bit of a brain melt on this, can't seem to visualise the mechanics of how it should ideally function.

So just to clarify I should try -

  • Using the TRF o-rings instead of the red ones, and add a bit of green slime to them
  • Otherwise assemble shocks as per the instructions
  • Fill with oil to the internal step
  • Screw in end cup one turn and push piston in "all the way"(?)
  • Mop up excess oil and fully tighten cup

Sorry if I'm being dense!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, felle free to ask! I think you covered all nicely! I do not know the White TRF rings mentioned, only the blue (orings), the clear ones and the Blue x-rings. I would use the clear o rings only. The blue are supersmooth and have low friction, but tend to leak early. They are just for modern TRF race dampers, same for the X-rings, as they have to be adjusted correctly with shims and so on to define their preload.

A very good compromise between lifetime and smoothness offer o-rings from revolution racing:

https://www.t2shop.de/epages/61746328.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61746328/Products/18-RDRP2001

But choice is up to you, filling and bleeding correctly is the main key. And do not turn the dampers upside down, as some did it. It will not stop leaking during running. Maybe only on the shelf, when they already seep out. But Performance of damping will be clearly worse uside down, as These Shocks work as "aeration" dampers. You can test it by hand: The shock is always creating an air bubble by the law of physics. If These bubble is between the guiding and the piston in extension stroke, you have a lack of damping at the end of the total stroke...

Kind regards,

Matthias

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s great, thanks Matthias!

I had read suggestions in a few places to install the dampers upside down, and now definitely won’t. Wish I’d seen your link earlier for the O-rings as much they’re much better value than the TRF spares, but I’m much more confident now that i’ll Get it sorted!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/6/2020 at 1:08 AM, No Cheese Tonight said:

Can confirm that this works, I now have nice non leaking dampers :)

Very cool to hear, glad that I could help you. ;)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...