Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Enneaitch

M-06 Chassis Set up for Drift

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just wondering if anyone has any experience in drifting this chassis?

ive just picked one up. Running 10.5t brushless motor, esc, lipo, and some drift wheels.

Well i had it at the track last night.... and needless to say it was a mess.

It seemed to want to spin at the slightest touch of the steering. with my ESC and motor it almost felt like the car had too much power.

I test fitted a Gyro and wasnt much help....

Im determined to make it work though. heres my inspiration...

this is an m-06 chassis with mods. Not sure what mods though.

I have seen a mod on another m chassis to get crazy lock, and thought this might help just need to figure out if it will suit the m-06.

Any one any thoughts? it would be greatly appreciated.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also interested!

I'd imagine not easy though as the balance is all wrong for drift - rear overhanging motor makes for good grip but will act like a pendulum weight when drifting I imagine?

I very very nearly bought a set of the tyres Dorvack speaks of last month but resigned myself to the drift concept not working right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would have great admiration for anyone who does successfully drift the M-06. While a lot better-behaved than its predecessor the M-04, it can still be rather tail-happy even on grippy tyres. I can just about drift my M-06 rally car on some loose surfaces, but it is tricky - I certainly wouldn't want any less grip.

Good luck to those brave souls who attempt it! I look forward to reading about your exploits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Think you need decent shocks & a tonne of weight on the rear knuckles to even get an M06 to drive straight :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think (among others) tires have to be very well matched to the surface, to do rwd drifting

For example MST sells 7 different hardness drift tires, of which the 3 softer ones are recommended by them as 2wd rear tire

Also I hope your combo is sensored, if not, don't even try

You can also add some expo to throttle channel, to improve low rpm control

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interested as well. I would much rather drift something different lioe an M06 if it is feasible than buy the latest rwd drift specific chassis. Thinking of getting a rwd drifter so if I can pedal a M04/6 on the track sideways, count me in :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive been researching this alot recently... and im slowly finding some good information... I got advice from a guy in usa, who gave me this advice....

"First, the M06, is not a great platform to use for a RWD drifter, but it's not impossible to mod one. A gyro will DEFINITELY be required, so get a good one. I use HPI's D-Box 2, but a good inexpensive one will work.
Your worst parts will be tires. I suggest you locate and purchase as many as you will be able to find. One caveat, though......HPI's T-Drift tires for "M" class are different diameters for inside and outside beads, so the wheels must be a specific type. Outside tire compounds will be tiny, if not non-existent. Indoor tires are all over the place, IF you use Berber carpet, as is specified in the text above.

Next, the M06 doesn't really lend itself to weight distribution changes well, so a little creativity will be necessary. You will want a weight distribution of at least 55/45, biased toward the front.

My best advice? Get an M05 Ver.II Pro, and do what I did. The new Ver. II Pro is the best version of the M05 Tamiya has put out, so far, and it works well for drift, if you do what I did. The mods are relatively easy, compared to what you'll have to do, with an M06. I have one, myself, and found it wasn't a good candidate for RWD drift, with the supplies I had. I am saving it as a RWD racer, later on.....

I am a retired American Army veteran who just received his service dog, and I have no more time for RC. Try contacting the poster who posted above you. I know Mitch, and he can help. if he's still doing his "M" classers."

and recently gave me this advice too...

"If you're invested in the M06, then try using "air" batteries, for airplanes. Those are smaller than regular stick-type batteries, and you can alter weight better with those. They don't last as long as stick batteries, but the mod potential is worth the extra trouble. Stay away from aluminum steering components. You can get steer angle with the stock components, The first thing you'll have to do, is get rid of the bellcranks. Those will NOT work with any system that improves steering deflection. You may have to relocate the steering servo location (putting it up front, where the bumper is, was my last idea - adds weight up front, too). Look at the stock steering parts, and mock them up to one another. You'll see where material needs to be removed, to get more deflection. mostly with the front C-hubs and knuckles.

Look VERY closely at the front steering on the M05. It uses the same parts as the M06 in this area, so much of what you see will transpose to the M06 with a little modding. You might invest in some small aluminum parts, such as standoffs and spacers (TQRC Racing online has several types and brands of those parts that I have used, and they stock all the ones I did use), which will be necessary.

Don't worry too much about the power system at this point. The chassis will be taking up the bulk of your time from now. I ran a 5700Kv system in my M06, and it was too powerful. It now has a 4600Kv system in it now, and it works better for power modulation, which is very important to drift. The lower-rated systems all have better modulation than the more powerful systems. Don't get too locked into power, because drift really doesn't require much. The reason you spin out now, is because of:

1) bad weight distribution
2) wrong tires
3) too much power delivery

Thee are all issues, but no one is more important than the others. They all contribute, and all are tied to each other, adjustment-wise. The way you see the list, is exactly how you should tackle them. Weight distribution first, then tires, then power system. Do it any other way, and you'll be chasing the other two, repeatedly - not a good idea."

I have recently bought the Eagle Racing kit which give you a carbon lower deck and alloy gearbox housings amoungst a few things... It also allows me to move things around the chassis to get the weight distribution in check, then ill work on modifying the steering to get as much lock as i can....

Hope this may spur some of you guys on to follow in my footsteps. :D

Thanks for the comments.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thread revival!!

Thought I would bring this back to the top to see if anyone made any progress with their M06 in terms of drifting.

I have one and have removed the front c-hubs and am in the process of moving the front shocks. It is the gyro, gearing and any other mods that people have done that might help.

Hope it's ok to revive this, any help appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nah, came to conclusion there's not enough space to mod for enough steering angle... stock steering is dismal

easier to go proper drift RWD instead... bought a Sakura D4

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Steering angle can be improved with c-hub removal and also changing to a single shock set up, which is what I am working on at the minute. 

I will try to stick this one out as I do love the m chassis cars, those vids of the m06 drifting would just wind me up if I gave up!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, WillyChang said:

ooooh check this vid out 

[mx-5 drifter]

Interesting, an M-chassis sized 3Racing D4.

I want mod an MST FMX-D or FXX-D in this fashion for a true front-engine RWD M-Chassis car.   Most of the RWD M cars are this configuration in 1:1.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, firefoxussr said:

Interesting, an M-chassis sized 3Racing D4.

I want mod an MST FMX-D or FXX-D in this fashion for a true front-engine RWD M-Chassis car.   Most of the RWD M cars are this configuration in 1:1.

yeah it's very well done, have had a search around and can't seem to find much info in the English-speaking inter webs. Y'think its custom chassis plates and wonder what shorty arms he's used. Weight-shift rocker very well done too.

Got a D4 RWD and FXX-D... they so need building :unsure: plus a DIB-RS still not yet turned a wheel.

Won't be easy Minifying an FXX unless you can custom cut plates? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, WillyChang said:

Got a D4 RWD and FXX-D... they so need building :unsure: plus a DIB-RS still not yet turned a wheel.

Won't be easy Minifying an FXX unless you can custom cut plates? 

You're right about the needing custom plates.   But i think that may just be the beginning- the hubs may be too large to fit in m-chassis wheels, you'd need shorter a-arms/wishbones, shorten the driveshaft, .... https://forum.driftmission.com/Thread-feng-s-custom-rwd-m-chassis-mx-5-nd

I think it may be a better to find a TA05 M-Four and make it 225mm wheelbase.  I'm confident it's not too difficult as Active Hobby apparently allowed 225mm with their M-Four suspension kit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nah M-Four has other issues of its own, like odd motor mount, odd battery size & there's not much room to play with. TA05 bulkheads are pretty bulky. 

If you were going to build a RWD might as well start from scratch... TB EvoIV bulkhead is nicely self-contained & compact - easy to incorporate into your design. 

Shaftdrive too ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, WillyChang said:

nah M-Four has other issues of its own, like odd motor mount, odd battery size & there's not much room to play with. TA05 bulkheads are pretty bulky. 

If you were going to build a RWD might as well start from scratch... TB EvoIV bulkhead is nicely self-contained & compact - easy to incorporate into your design. 

Shaftdrive too ;)

Solid points.  Many reasons there why I haven't just bought an M-Four from TamiyaUSA at the nice price.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...