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moffman

The Avante 2011 torque splitter set is it worth getting?

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I'm thinking of getting the torque splitter set for my avante 2011 I've put a tamiya super modified (11turn) motor in it and I do use it but not bash the nuts out of it so my question is will I notice the benefit of the set or should like I've been told just fill the diffs with anti-wear grease for a little bit of resistance?

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Are you taking jumps with your Avante? If not, go for the torque splitter, which curbs the Avante's inherent oversteer but does not allow for balancing the car in mid-air off jumps due to the lack of reverse/brake to the front wheels. If you do take jumps, keep its centre-lock and grease up the geared differentials.

I drive a Black Special, with a torque splitter as standard equipment, and I can tell you it drives well on flat ground with this configuration.

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The best set up is the center ball diff and the front and rear ball diffs from the Torque Splitter Set.

The front and rear ball differentials help the model to have better manouvrability, better stability, more traction and cure the oversteering.
The center ball diff helps the car to be more balanced during the curves, protect the geartrain and expecially the rear shafts and makes the car more easy to drive and smooth.

The оnе-way makes the car really oversteering, too much reactive (expecially with the short wheelbase of the Avante), less balanced during jumps and unstable when you brake. This is a racing set up only for short straight lines with narrow curves technical track.

The centerlock is a direct torque to the wheels and you can use it in a couple of situation. A soft surface slippy track.
If you use it on tarmac or on a very grippy surface you will have the maximum traction but your drivetrain will be more prone to stripping the gears or break the axles. The transmission will be more noisy in the curves because the wheels will be a little bit forced in the rotation. The result is a bigger geartrain consuption.

My two cents.

Max

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I agree. I run the vintage triple ball-diffs in my Vanquish and love it. Adding the front & rear ball diffs really helped put the power the down in turns vs the planetary gear diffs. Keeping the center ball-diff also reduces the on-power under-steer most standard 4WD's have. It makes for quite a unique driving experience.

I've not run with the center one-way because I don't like having only rear-axle braking on a basher. That's more of a race-car tuning option.

BTW: You may be able to get a similar effect of the front & rear ball diffs by simply put anti-wear grease inside the original planetary gear diffs. This will slow them down giving them a similar effect. The main difference will be that as the grease heats up during the run, the diffs will feel looser & looser. Slightly less consistent than ball diffs. The other big difference will be the lack of adjustability & tuning vs ball diffs. Typically ball diffs are set slightly tighter in the front vs the rear. You can't do that with AW grease.

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Thanks guys for the very useful advice and tips! I don't know about you guys but everybody who I asked about the avante all say (and on YouTube for that matter!) That it can't hold up to the modern day racing buggy the massive oversteer and the sloppy steering but I took it to my local indoor club and it was very impressive, yeah it didn't blast the opposition but for a 30 year old design it certainly held its own (the club chairman let me race it that night just to see how it could compete) I was well impressed I think the tyres let it down though! way to hard so I'm looking forward to the ball diffs see what happens then!

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I run a re-re Egress on a dirt (clay) track at vintage events. The track is not 'sugared'. I find the Egress handles better on the dirt with the locked centre. The only time you would run the one way is on high grip track where you could brake and not loose the rear end. Just a note. The diff rings in the set (i'm assuming they are same as Egress) where not finished the best they could be. Your diffs will perform better and longer if you take some time to properly polish the diff rings. YR makes a kit for this. The other thing to do is replace the steal balls with TRF Ceramic ones. They greatly improve the life of the ball diffs as well. I don't have them in my Egress yet, but I do run the Ceramics in my 201XM on carpet track and they are going great guns. I rebuilt the diff in the 201XM after 4 visits to the carpet venue, which included plenty of practice runs each visit. Whilst the grease needed replacing, no parts were replaced. The diff was still smooth, just like a new one. I cannot say the same for the diffs in the Egress, which keep getting notchier as the steel balls wear.

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Thanks guys for the very useful advice and tips! I don't know about you guys but everybody who I asked about the avante all say (and on YouTube for that matter!) That it can't hold up to the modern day racing buggy the massive oversteer and the sloppy steering but I took it to my local indoor club and it was very impressive, yeah it didn't blast the opposition but for a 30 year old design it certainly held its own (the club chairman let me race it that night just to see how it could compete) I was well impressed I think the tyres let it down though! way to hard so I'm looking forward to the ball diffs see what happens then!

It's a shame you ran your Avante on a track or in competition with old pin-spike tires & 2.0 wheels that really only work in the sand. At the bare minimum I suggest you run DF03 2.2 wheels. Then you can pair them with whatever tire is the "fast" tire at the track you are driving on. Keep the pin-spikes & 2.0 wheels for display (trust me).

The correct tires are 70% of your setup.

BTW: The old DF03 high density spike K (kit) tires are a great hard tire for all-around bashing. They work well in dirt or on asphalt (not racing though), and last a very very long time (relative). I highly recommend keeping a set handy.

DF03 wheels w/ Proline Race tires:

Photo-Sep-14-11-49-24-AM.jpg

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It's a shame you ran your Avante on a track or in competition with old pin-spike tires & 2.0 wheels that really only work in the sand. At the bare minimum I suggest you run DF03 2.2 wheels. Then you can pair them with whatever tire is the "fast" tire at the track you are driving on. Keep the pin-spikes & 2.0 wheels for display (trust me).

The correct tires are 70% of your setup.

BTW: The old DF03 high density spike K (kit) tires are a great hard tire for all-around bashing. They work well in dirt or on asphalt (not racing though), and last a very very long time (relative). I highly recommend keeping a set handy.

DF03 wheels w/ Proline Race tires:

Photo-Sep-14-11-49-24-AM.jpg

I didn't run it with the stock pin spiked I bought a set of hotshot block super grippers which like I said did let it down because they were a bit to hard but on the flip side of that they should be very hard wearing for over the car park but I will go for a set of the df03 spiked now I have got my torque splitter set! I have kept the pin spiked for show because I want to keep it looking like an avante (because its beautiful looking and it took me an age to paint the lettering on the wall of the tyres!!)

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The best set up is the center ball diff and the front and rear ball diffs from the Torque Splitter Set.

The front and rear ball differentials help the model to have better manouvrability, better stability, more traction and cure the oversteering.

The center ball diff helps the car to be more balanced during the curves, protect the geartrain and expecially the rear shafts and makes the car more easy to drive and smooth.

The оnе-way makes the car really oversteering, too much reactive (expecially with the short wheelbase of the Avante), less balanced during jumps and unstable when you brake. This is a racing set up only for short straight lines with narrow curves technical track.

The centerlock is a direct torque to the wheels and you can use it in a couple of situation. A soft surface slippy track.

If you use it on tarmac or on a very grippy surface you will have the maximum traction but your drivetrain will be more prone to stripping the gears or break the axles. The transmission will be more noisy in the curves because the wheels will be a little bit forced in the rotation. The result is a bigger geartrain consuption.

My two cents.

Max

Hi kontemax,

Sorry to bump this thread back up.

Thanks for the valuable tip. Can I enquire what modern day electronics (ESC, Motor, etc) would work well for day to day running/bashing?

Dan

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Hi, don't worry about the back up of the thread.

I believe that today you should go brushless. Avante/Egress mechanics is strong enough to manage from a mild power brushless motor to an high powered brushless motor.
I believe that the model can handle also very hot and fast motors (I did run with a brushed torquey 10 x 2 motor back in the days) but I believe also that a superfast model is useless for bashing purposes.
Anyway today the motors and ESCs ar often sold as a brushless combo for very few money.
I usually buy from Tamico in Germany but I suppose that in Singapore is plenty of phisical and online model shops.


Anyone can give some more detailed informations about it?

Max

 
Hi kontemax,

Sorry to bump this thread back up.

Thanks for the valuable tip. Can I enquire what modern day electronics (ESC, Motor, etc) would work well for day to day running/bashing?

Dan

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Hi Max,

Thanks for your reply. Would the CC's Mamba Max Pro with a 4600/5700KV be too much of an overkill? Am also looking at the Hobbywing series due to it's lower cost.

Thanks.

Dan

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Hi Dan,

I know the Mamba is a fast motor but I never had it so probably someone else with more experience than me can answer better than me to your question. I'm very capable with brushed motors but not a lot on brushless ones.

Max

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Hi Dan,

I know the Mamba is a fast motor but I never had it so probably someone else with more experience than me can answer better than me to your question. I'm very capable with brushed motors but not a lot on brushless ones.

Max

Thanks again, Max. Have you come across the Savox SC-1258TG Titanium Gear Digital Servo?

Dan

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I believe that this is a good servo, very fast and maybe too much powerful imho.

I believe that a 5.5 Kg servo is good enough for the Avante but nothing forbids you to buy this Savox.

Max

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I believe that this is a good servo, very fast and maybe too much powerful imho.

I believe that a 5.5 Kg servo is good enough for the Avante but nothing forbids you to buy this Savox.

Max

Thanks again, Max :)

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