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Monster Beetle re-release #58618

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Mhmmm, nice paintjob! Now, where's that driver figure?

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Couple of pictures of my Monster Beetle complete with carbon reinforced suspension mounts and Super Duty gearbox.  Just scored second in the monster truck race with it at the 2016 Revival so happy with that!  Only beaten by a stadium truck.  Running a Kyosho Le Mans 360 Gold motor with 19x1 armature, LRP Quantum Competition ESC and GMade piggybacks up front with Schumacher big bore rear shocks.

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14 hours ago, LongRat said:

Couple of pictures of my Monster Beetle complete with carbon reinforced suspension mounts and Super Duty gearbox.  Just scored second in the monster truck race with it at the 2016 Revival so happy with that!  Only beaten by a stadium truck.  Running a Kyosho Le Mans 360 Gold motor with 19x1 armature, LRP Quantum Competition ESC and GMade piggybacks up front with Schumacher big bore rear shocks.

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I always had the thought that the monster beetle was that rc that only looked good in its box art (red) maybe different shades but red was the way to go! But as always TC members proven me wrong again!, Very nice :)

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18 hours ago, LongRat said:

Couple of pictures of my Monster Beetle complete with carbon reinforced suspension mounts and Super Duty gearbox.  Just scored second in the monster truck race with it at the 2016 Revival so happy with that!  Only beaten by a stadium truck.  Running a Kyosho Le Mans 360 Gold motor with 19x1 armature, LRP Quantum Competition ESC and GMade piggybacks up front with Schumacher big bore rear shocks.

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Thats a beast, very nice colorscheme. Can you please post a pic without the body.

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I'm fairly sure it would from what people have said to me.  I am not 100% certain because I only have the MB on the ORV chassis.  But I think it will fit the Frog, Brat and all other ORV cars.  If it doesn't and I decide to make a load of these, I would definitely be keen to change the design to make it compatible with everything.  I'm already contemplating building a mk2 version for myself which will allow the diff to be removed easily without having to take the whole back end of the car apart, like you have to with the standard car.

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The last days I tried to improve my skills at filling the holes with the soldering iron, welding plastic via friction welding and use filler on a plastic body. It will become a rere body with a clean vintage look. Don't worry, I don't want to sell it as a vintage body. It's just for me as a sample item. I am really anxious to see it painted. It will get a different color scheme to practice masking and airbrushing too.:D

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On September 5, 2016 at 1:01 PM, Pauli330 said:

The last days I tried to improve my skills at filling the holes with the soldering iron, welding plastic via friction welding and use filler on a plastic body. It will become a rere body with a clean vintage look. Don't worry, I don't want to sell it as a vintage body. It's just for me as a sample item. I am really anxious to see it painted. It will get a different color scheme to practice masking and airbrushing too.:D

 

 

 

How did you do the friction welding? 

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On 1/8/2016 at 7:43 PM, LongRat said:

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This one seems my motorbike.

 

Max

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Finally picked up a MB. Got round to building it yesterday and the amount of issues during the build was unreal, rattly loose front damper stay, rebuilt it 3 times and still the same,  (had to add a few washers to take up the slack). Rear plastic trailing arms were binding like mad and not very smooth, had to add washers to the plastic holders at the sides too, which made a huge difference and also removed 1 o-ring from each drive cup too. Finally finished the build tonight and fitted a Reedy MVP motor and popped in my turnigy hardcase lipo and wow its a bit crazy fast for what it is, wheelies like mad. lol. Also surprisingly no clicking from the gearbox and no binding of the rear universals. Going to give it a good blast this weekend. :)

James

:)

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Finally finished my Monster Beetle Commander. My first try on camouflage paintjob with the airbrush. I think next time (if there is a next time because it's not my favorite scheme) I will do it freehand with some kind of shading.

At the moment I have an issue with the chassis. The gearbox is not clicking, but I have a massive slippage. When I built the gearbox the first time I did everything as mentioned in the manual and the slippage started right after the build. Then I took it apart and used the AW grease for the metal gears and it was gone for half an akku pack but suddenly it came back. So at the moment I have no clue what causes this problem. So I will take it apart again.

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Finally got mine running with diff support plates and brat dogbones and it can't even make it half a nimh pack without throwing motor side dogbone :(

What am I missing?  I have 1 o-ring on diff side and one outside then tried again with two o-rings diff side and one outside and same result.  

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tamiya3speed, its not anything you are doing wrong. The rear suspension arms are flexing allowing the dog bone to pop out. Its a severe design flaw with the ORV chassis with big wheels (Monster Beetle, Blackfoot). Watch this video:

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I knew these things weren't great but man what a let down.  I've got my eye on the am pro set-up.  Going to limit down travel on the shocks to see if it helps at least temporarily.

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I would say you need to shorten the arm on the new Ampro setup and of course get some USD's on this if possible. They are only cheap now and can be picked up from eBay easily.

When I had this issue it was due to the shocks over extending so I adjusted them to ensure that was not possible. Not used the hex setup since the 80's though so my advice may be totally wrong for that. If it is the rear arms flexing which is of course possible, CRP do a support for them which eliminates it completely as far as I can tell. You open up the Gearbox, insert a tube in there that the suspension arms use for support then you close it all up with much stiffer end plates....job done, mine has nearly zero flex.

Not the best picture but hopefully this post makes some sense.....keep the faith :-)

 

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Hi guys, I'm new here but I wanted to give some feedback on my set-up. I have a 2015 MB with the MIP super ball differential and AmPro engineering's rear double wishbone suspension set-up. I use a TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless motor.

I also experienced major headaches when I switched from the Thorp telescoping axles/Diff to the MIP set-up and the Tamiya CVD axles. The CVD's are binding and causing the back wheels to wobble and make horrible sounds from the velocity joint. I contacted Tamiya USA and they acknowledged the issue and were going to send me dogbones to replace the CVD's. I wish MIP made telescoping axles but that is for another day.

At any rate I disagree with the comment that AmPro's arms need to be shortened. I don't believe that at all. His suspension was designed to work with all the ORV's including the Frog. AmPro's stuff is killer and just what this vehicle needs to get rid of the poor control arm design from Tamiya. Back with the first Thorp diff (dogbone style), I also used a Trinity rear sway bar and even still I would occasionally loose the Thorp dogbone axles in a rollover. That is a lot of spreading!

Don't hesitate to get the MIP and AmPo combo...you won't regret it!

Gen-Atrain

 

 

 

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For those of you who want to keep the stock stuff but want to reduce the gearbox from spreading under load. Try this...You need Tamiya's hop up 54319 and you swap out the solid counter gear shaft for the hollow one in the hop up kit. Then you insert a 3mm cap screw to go through both sides and use a nylon lock nut to secure it. Adjust the pressure as needed but not so the gears are being restricted by the case. Shim the counter gear as required (since the diff plate thickness can vary as much as 10%).

Enjoy!

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Hey, not bad! I've never seen that approach before, but I like it a lot. Definitely going to give a try on one of my ORVs.

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1 hour ago, Gen_Atrain said:

The CVD's are binding and causing the back wheels to wobble and make horrible sounds from the velocity joint. I contacted Tamiya USA and they acknowledged the issue and were going to send me dogbones to replace the CVD's.

So you're having trouble using the CVDs with the MIP diff?

@Pintopower have you had any issues with the CVDs?  Originally I thought you said to get the dogbones but in one of the vids you said the CVDs so that's what I just got to use with my MIP diff.  I'm happy with either so long as it works well.

ps Pintopower = AMPro

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