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Monster Beetle re-release #58618

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@Snappy1

No, that is the telescoping Thorp axle without the other side attached.

Great design axles IMHO but expensive diff that didn't really hold up well to the Brushless power. 

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9 minutes ago, Snappy1 said:

Are they Losi UJ's hanging off the beetle gearbox?

Not sure (since its not my car), but I'm using Traxxas #4851's as UJs in my Frog to replace the Thorp/Robinson shafts that were worn out.  All I had to do was ream out the holes where they attach to the pins a little to get them to fit.

Terry

 

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@beefmuffin

"So you're having trouble using the CVDs with the MIP diff?"

I did. It is caused by the Tamiya CVD and not the MIP diff. I have measured every inch of the MIP diff and believe it or not the face-to-face or cup-to-cup dimension on the MIP is .040" shorter than the stock cups. 

Gen_Atrain

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@Saito2

 

"Hey, not bad! I've never seen that approach before, but I like it a lot. Definitely going to give a try on one of my ORVs." 

👍🏼

 

Just remember that if you are using the AmPro's rear suspension then you don't need to do this mod. His rear mount wraps around the gear box and there is no way the plates can spread. But it can't hurt either!

 

 

IMG_8218.JPG

IMG_8220.JPG

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On 1/11/2017 at 6:08 PM, beefmuffin said:

So you're having trouble using the CVDs with the MIP diff?

@Pintopower have you had any issues with the CVDs?  Originally I thought you said to get the dogbones but in one of the vids you said the CVDs so that's what I just got to use with my MIP diff.  I'm happy with either so long as it works well.

ps Pintopower = AMPro

Hey folks I just noticed this (my fault, sorry) and wanted to get my input in here since I helped MIP develop the diff. When it comes to the CVD vs the 2005 rere dog bone, you absolutely cannot use the dog bone at all. The geometry is different between the 2005 and the 2015 version. Though they look like the can work, it is important that they not be used. You will damage the outdrives permanently. As for the wobble, I have been working with someone on it and it does look like you can get replacements from Tamiya if you call them. I really want to make sure you all know about the use of the dogbones with the MIP diff. I don’t want to step on toes but you need to know that the diff was only designed for the CVD version in the 2015 MB & 2016 BF. 

 

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As Pintopower pointed out the Frog dog bones won't work with the MIP differential. I can confirm this.

I'm procuring more sets of 2015 CVD's to see if the problem is isolated or not. The trouble with calling Tamiya for replacements is they are issuing the dogbones since they figure that is the cure with a "stock"  diff. 

The best resolution to this issue would be telescoping axles to adapt to the MIP cups. I'm tinkering with a custom hybrid set up as we speak.

I'll keep you posted.

Gen_Atrain

 

 

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I know, but having it here, I might as well use it. At least I know where it is 🙂

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On 1/11/2017 at 6:34 PM, Gen_Atrain said:

Hi guys, I'm new here but I wanted to give some feedback on my set-up. I have a 2015 MB with the MIP super ball differential and AmPro engineering's rear double wishbone suspension set-up. I use a TBLM-02S 10.5T brushless motor.

I also experienced major headaches when I switched from the Thorp telescoping axles/Diff to the MIP set-up and the Tamiya CVD axles. The CVD's are binding and causing the back wheels to wobble and make horrible sounds from the velocity joint. I contacted Tamiya USA and they acknowledged the issue and were going to send me dogbones to replace the CVD's. I wish MIP made telescoping axles but that is for another day.

At any rate I disagree with the comment that AmPro's arms need to be shortened. I don't believe that at all. His suspension was designed to work with all the ORV's including the Frog. AmPro's stuff is killer and just what this vehicle needs to get rid of the poor control arm design from Tamiya. Back with the first Thorp diff (dogbone style), I also used a Trinity rear sway bar and even still I would occasionally loose the Thorp dogbone axles in a rollover. That is a lot of spreading!

Don't hesitate to get the MIP and AmPo combo...you won't regret it!

Gen-Atrain

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Apologies if this has already been covered elsewhere, but where can I get a set of those aluminum steering blocks?  My ball joints keep backing out slowly and these would be a great upgrade!

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32 minutes ago, aphex4000 said:

Apologies if this has already been covered elsewhere, but where can I get a set of those aluminum steering blocks?  My ball joints keep backing out slowly and these would be a great upgrade!

http://r.ebay.com/as2Wi2

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Hi All,

I've been away from this site for 4 - 5 years but the Monster Beetle Re-release drew me back in like a disease (a good one if there is such a thing). The Monster Beetle was one of if not my favorite Tamiya car for the longest time, performance be damned!  After I saw this message thread I read through it 1 to 1.5 times so far trying to collect all the information I can.

I have an original Blackfoot, the chassis that needs some TLC and the body is missing several parts and almost cut in half so I've decided to convert it to a Monster Beetle since I always liked that better than the Blackfoot anyways.

So far I've collected all the replacement stock chassis parts and the body, I also currently have the following hop ups:

CRP 1606 rear arm support
CRP 1622 shock mounts
CRP 1624 front tower support
CRP 1627 rear body mount supports
Adjustable motor mount plate from eBay

I do plan on buying an MIP Diff for this thing soon too but I was wondering if things like alloy uprights or alloy front arms for sale on eBay right now are worth the money to improve long term reliability since they seem to commonly wear out or break on the Blackfoot/Monster Beetle chassis. Also, is there any other upgrades I might look into.

I plan on running this thing regularly, but not too hard (no big jumps, rock crawling or submerging it in water) if that makes any difference.

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I just love the ORV line so much. I had a blackfoot and a frog growing up. I always wanted the monster beetle. I managed to get my hands on a vintage one before the re release came out. It has morphed into the ultimate monster beetle. Thorp tranny aluminum rear trailing arms and hubs. Aluminum front uprights and steering knuckles. Aluminum motor cover and rear body mount brace, as well as front body mount... just need the upper and lower front arms. I'm hoping someone will start making aluminum rear body mounts, and an aluminum rear bumper for the monster beetle... 

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I know, at that price it makes me want to buy a couple to keep in the loft. 

 

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On 2/26/2017 at 1:56 PM, 4ferraras said:

I just love the ORV line so much. I had a blackfoot and a frog growing up. I always wanted the monster beetle. I managed to get my hands on a vintage one before the re release came out. It has morphed into the ultimate monster beetle. Thorp tranny aluminum rear trailing arms and hubs. Aluminum front uprights and steering knuckles. Aluminum motor cover and rear body mount brace, as well as front body mount... just need the upper and lower front arms. I'm hoping someone will start making aluminum rear body mounts, and an aluminum rear bumper for the monster beetle... 

Pictures please?!?

Terry

 

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Just got one from Tamico.... couldn't resist at the deal price. Always thought I was a buggy man but something about the MB has been gnawing away at me for the last few weeks... it's beautiful, especially when seen in motion.  I have a lot of cars I'm 'about to start building' now...

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Sorry if this comes across as a stoopid noobo question, but given that the body seems to come in red, how do people create different colour bodies for the MB? What's the technique? Thanks. 

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58 minutes ago, ALEXKYRIAK said:

Sorry if this comes across as a stoopid noobo question, but given that the body seems to come in red, how do people create different colour bodies for the MB? What's the technique? Thanks. 

Paint !! , just prime it , then paint it .  

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2 hours ago, ALEXKYRIAK said:

Sorry if this comes across as a stoopid noobo question, but given that the body seems to come in red, how do people create different colour bodies for the MB? What's the technique? Thanks. 

There are also white bodies(Sand Scorcher) and black ones(I believe it's the Blitzer Beetle, but could be wrong on the name). Or get artsy and use a red body, black nose cone, and white sunroof panel ;)

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Thanks lads. Paint!  :) Ok, had assumed this was Lexan, and painted from inside. Have now seen some build logs showing the sanding and painting process. I like the look of Yellow or Black for the MB. Yes Biz, the Blitzer Beetle body is yummy ....

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3 hours ago, ALEXKYRIAK said:

Thanks lads. Paint!  :) Ok, had assumed this was Lexan, and painted from inside. Have now seen some build logs showing the sanding and painting process. I like the look of Yellow or Black for the MB. Yes Biz, the Blitzer Beetle body is yummy ....

The body is ABS plastic , So for this you NEED TS paint ( Tamiya paint ) . NOT "PS" paint ( Tamiya paint )  <<< as this is for lexen ( clear body )  .

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