Pablo68 1049 Posted April 13, 2016 I had that Juddering problem too, I just stripped it down, fiddled a bit, then put it all back together. Haven't had it since.I also made a mistake when putting it together. The manual called for normal grease in the diff, but I put in that really sticky anti-wear grease instead.It works really well though. Haven't had any clicking issues with the diff yet. (Touch wood) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TeaMonster 506 Posted April 13, 2016 Just figured i'd let you guys know, the Mud Blaster with the ReRe rear end with my sideplates is still alive and working awesome. Probably ran over 40 2s packs through it as of today. This was from a few weeks back but was an absolute blast. Who needs shelf queens when you have this much fun!? That is a great picture👍 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moffman 5752 Posted April 13, 2016 Just figured i'd let you guys know, the Mud Blaster with the ReRe rear end with my sideplates is still alive and working awesome. Probably ran over 40 2s packs through it as of today. This was from a few weeks back but was an absolute blast. Who needs shelf queens when you have this much fun!? that should be mandatory every monster beetle, mud blaster and Blackfoot should have to look like that before it's allowed on the TC and in a collection (apart from the ones you want to keep as a shelf queen!!) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LongRat 616 Posted April 13, 2016 What are the differences between the Frog and Brat shafts which cure this issue and the re re Beetle shafts? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dangerseeker 162 Posted April 13, 2016 I got this for my MB refurbishment:AXLE CONVERSION KIT CRP 9130http://www.ebay.com/itm/AXLE-CONVERSION-KIT-Tamiya-Blackfoot-Monster-Beetle-Mud-Blaster-RC-Team-CRP-9130-/231902203652?hash=item35fe72cf04:g:RS8AAOxy4M5R9DRbtogether with this:CRP 1608 Diff Bearing Supporthttp://www.ebay.com/itm/CRP-1608-Diff-Bearing-Support-Tamiya-Blackfoot-Frog-Monster-Beetle-Brat-RC-Parts-/231903941294?hash=item35fe8d52ae:g:q90AAOSwv-NWZL1dand the car should run quite smoothly.If you are a high roller ($$$), you could go for a Ball Diff:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-THORP-4500-Tamiya-Blackfoot-Frog-Monster-Beetle-Ball-Diff-Differential-/201559445590?hash=item2eede11056:g:NJcAAOxy69JTEUs6but for the price you will get another MB Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moffman 5752 Posted April 14, 2016 What are the differences between the Frog and Brat shafts which cure this issue and the re re Beetle shafts?the MB drive train is the hop-up option for the frog\brat if you look at parts number 53908 its a universal drive shafts but on my experience it just doesn't work on the MB but the standard dogbone and drive shafts work fine! How somebody at tamiya never made sure this type of drive train worked before making it part of the kit is beyond me! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LongRat 616 Posted April 14, 2016 Thanks, what I'm trying to understand is exactly why the Brat shafts don't cause a problem. The only thing I can imagine is that the shaft is a slightly smaller diameter so does not catch on the inner bore of the outdrive. If that is the case I will simply machine down my kit universal shafts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moffman 5752 Posted April 14, 2016 Thanks, what I'm trying to understand is exactly why the Brat shafts don't cause a problem. The only thing I can imagine is that the shaft is a slightly smaller diameter so does not catch on the inner bore of the outdrive. If that is the case I will simply machine down my kit universal shafts.SORRY I misunderstood! I think there is a few problems that have popped up mostly its got to do with the size and weight of the tyres\wheels and the fact that the suspension arms because of the weight drop and the uj's rub on the drive shafts that come out of the gearbox (basically just a bad design) when you push the suspension in it cure's the problem! I just found it easier to buy the dogbone and drive shaft from the frog\brat because they have the clearence because they are (including the shaft's out the gearbox) three separate parts as opposed to two with the uj's and it solved the problem instantly! Hope that helps? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mheald 351 Posted April 14, 2016 Thanks, what I'm trying to understand is exactly why the Brat shafts don't cause a problem. The only thing I can imagine is that the shaft is a slightly smaller diameter so does not catch on the inner bore of the outdrive. If that is the case I will simply machine down my kit universal shafts. I got an email from Tamiya saying that this is a problem that is affecting around 1% of the shafts in the kits. Basically there is a manufacturing defect in some of them. I rebuilt mine 3 times and know I've built it right as I've built this truck more times than I can count over the years without a hitch. For the fact that its 100% remedied by the brat shafts shows that there's an issue with the part. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moffman 5752 Posted April 14, 2016 I got an email from Tamiya saying that this is a problem that is affecting around 1% of the shafts in the kits. Basically there is a manufacturing defect in some of them. I rebuilt mine 3 times and know I've built it right as I've built this truck more times than I can count over the years without a hitch. For the fact that its 100% remedied by the brat shafts shows that there's an issue with the part.you did exactly what I did back in October took it apart again and again and its interesting to see that they have said there is a problem I e-mailed them back in October and never got a reply! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mheald 351 Posted April 14, 2016 you did exactly what I did back in October took it apart again and again and its interesting to see that they have said there is a problem I e-mailed them back in October and never got a reply! I only got a reply last week so its taken this long for them to reply. They offered me some upgrade at a discounted price for something or other, rather lame IMO. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moffman 5752 Posted April 14, 2016 They should of tested it before releasing it instead of offering some upgrade! no idea what that could be because the upgrade is the part on it which is causing the problem? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LongRat 616 Posted April 14, 2016 Moffman, as you are describing it out would seem that it is the shaft diameter rubbing on the gearbox outdrive. I will machine mine; I would have checked myself that this is the issue but I'm not at home with the car at the moment. If it is only affecting a small percentage of these cars it sounds like a tolerancing issue in production, in which case they may well have tested it quite extensively and found no problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mheald 351 Posted April 14, 2016 Moffman, as you are describing it out would seem that it is the shaft diameter rubbing on the gearbox outdrive. I will machine mine; I would have checked myself that this is the issue but I'm not at home with the car at the moment. If it is only affecting a small percentage of these cars it sounds like a tolerancing issue in production, in which case they may well have tested it quite extensively and found no problem. Just dug the email out, this is what they offered: We have therefore agreed with Tamiya an alternative “Hop Up” driveshaft set, consisting of two wheel axles, two dog bone driveshafts and two O rings. (This conversion eliminates the majority of any vibration, when apparent). 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LongRat 616 Posted April 14, 2016 Nice - best example of a hop-down I've ever seen! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moffman 5752 Posted April 14, 2016 Just dug the email out, this is what they offered: We have therefore agreed with Tamiya an alternative “Hop Up” driveshaft set, consisting of two wheel axles, two dog bone driveshafts and two O rings. (This conversion eliminates the majority of any vibration, when apparent). so the hop-up or hop-down is the parts I changed mine to! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazekxt 7 Posted April 16, 2016 hey guys new here but not to rc .picked up a 2015 mb .well guess what I have the same drive shaft issue ,left inner shaft is bent. well I emailed tamiya in calf. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thirteen30 74 Posted April 16, 2016 Can you straighten it with a hammer and vice? I've had to "un-tweak" my Yeti shafts a few times Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazekxt 7 Posted April 17, 2016 idk don't really want to tri that Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thirteen30 74 Posted April 17, 2016 Well it couldn't make it worse lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazekxt 7 Posted April 17, 2016 just going to part it out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pablo68 1049 Posted April 18, 2016 just going to part it out Really? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pablo68 1049 Posted April 18, 2016 yes sir Well it's up to you, but I think it's a car worth persevering with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazekxt 7 Posted April 18, 2016 well Tamiya is going to send me some dog bones to try Share this post Link to post Share on other sites