Ian_Gsi16V 533 Posted May 23, 2016 There was a blue one posted a while back in the 'What have you done today' thread that looked fantastic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John Booker 3 Posted May 24, 2016 Tamiya Lime Candy Green This is my first build. Primed with white then green. Took a while but very pleased with it 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darat76 265 Posted May 24, 2016 I looked up the blue one, and it does look good, so does that green one. I feel the color I go for has to have mass appeal yet be different to stand out, off set the red chassis parts nicely, and work with the gold wheels. Colors wise the green works, but not so sure about it's mass appeal, same for a herbie style, not sure how that blue like the one from the "what have you done today" thread would look sitting on the red rails as looks spot on with the gray ones. I briefly thought of doing a sand scorcher style paint job, but realized the masking job would be beyond my skill atm. I'm also thinking of doing a metallic blue or gun metal gray over a white primer with a some clear over the top, atm I'm limited to rattle cans, and given I don't have a shell to test spray cans, limited to spray cans for models like tamiya's own TS line. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mongoose1983 3335 Posted May 25, 2016 20 hours ago, Darat76 said: I looked up the blue one, and it does look good, so does that green one. I feel the color I go for has to have mass appeal yet be different to stand out, off set the red chassis parts nicely, and work with the gold wheels. Colors wise the green works, but not so sure about it's mass appeal, same for a herbie style, not sure how that blue like the one from the "what have you done today" thread would look sitting on the red rails as looks spot on with the gray ones. I briefly thought of doing a sand scorcher style paint job, but realized the masking job would be beyond my skill atm. I'm also thinking of doing a metallic blue or gun metal gray over a white primer with a some clear over the top, atm I'm limited to rattle cans, and given I don't have a shell to test spray cans, limited to spray cans for models like tamiya's own TS line. If you want to check many interesting different colors for a Monster Beetle you might want to have a look at the showroom of TCer Connor here: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/member.asp?id=29259 He specialized in Monster Beetle. Too bad he left TC for good, but in the day he shared pictures of many MBs with the coolest color combinations you can think of. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darat76 265 Posted May 25, 2016 thanks for the tip @mongoose1983, thinking a bluish silver metallic for the arches and side panels, with gun metal gray or charcoal or maybe slate gray over the top, and considering an off set stripe, or a pair of stripes running nose to tail, and maybe even darken the side windows a bit... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darat76 265 Posted June 9, 2016 no news is good news? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazekxt 7 Posted June 10, 2016 ive got a issues now with the rear of car at full drop the right cvd wants to pop out ive change the cvds right to left still same thing. all new and tight bearings new any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mheald 351 Posted June 10, 2016 26 minutes ago, chazekxt said: ive got a issues now with the rear of car at full drop the right cvd wants to pop out ive change the cvds right to left still same thing. all new and tight bearings new any ideas? Same issues I had sadly. Only fix is to remove the cvds and change to frog/brat dog bones. Completely fixes the issue. Tamiya have admitted that there is a problem with a small amount of these cvds but have done nothing about it. Grrrrrr. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazekxt 7 Posted June 10, 2016 tried that it don't work ive got a set of dog bones. when u put the dogbones on it pops out at the other end near the wheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 3661 Posted June 11, 2016 The problem with the swing arm design is that the arms want to splay out under stress and that causes the drive-shafts to drop out. The natural up-and-down motion, and the natural drag on the arms during turns only makes the problem worse. There is a reason we don't see this used in modern RC cars. Its a great design, but only if you want to go in a straight line... But I digress... Terry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mongoose1983 3335 Posted June 11, 2016 Mmmm... you guys might want to try this old mod useful in all of the infamous ORV chassis If it worked alright back in the day, I see no reason for it not to work nowadays, specially with the "upgrades" Tamiya did when replaced the original hex halfshafts! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 3661 Posted June 11, 2016 I solved the issue with a Thorp Diff with yoke style outs, modifed traxxas telescoping shafts, and robinson axles... all mounted on 50 Caliber aluminum arms... http://jpegbay.com/gallery/005168334-.html#2 Terry ETA: you can't see it in the pix, but I have the the pivot point reinforcement piece included with the CRP 1606... Actually the CRP 1606 arm holders allowed a thread rod to reach between the lowest holes, through the second hole in the tranny bottom (behind where the battery thingy goes through), allowing you to tighten or loosen as you needed... http://jpegbay.com/gallery/005322912-.html#1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazekxt 7 Posted June 11, 2016 thanks guys I think I got it fixed for now just used shorter spring on rear with just a little preload it sits a little lower now. but works great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ukfox 347 Posted June 19, 2016 Have fitted the clamping plates that I got from Mheald , (thanks) Seems I too have the vibrating drive shafts. Have used a set of dog bones from a Fast attack vehicle kit, to cure the problem. I tried the beetle shafts in my Wild One, they vibrate in this chassis also. Any one tried the beetle shafts in a frog or brat? just wondering if they work ok in a different car. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darat76 265 Posted June 19, 2016 If they vibrate in one, most likely they'll vibrate in all. If your really keen, you could test to see if the vibration is due to a bend somewhere, or a weight imbalance. both causes can be corrected, a bend being easier to correct, weight imbalance being very time consuming and debatable as to worthwhile doing, or just going and finding an aftermarket replacement Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazekxt 7 Posted June 22, 2016 have u check the plastic hubs ive had 3 sets that wobble on mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pumesta 407 Posted July 3, 2016 I have a problem with the dog bones in my MB, it's a vintage one but running the re-re frog dog bones. The last two times I have had it out after about 40 mins of running, the pin that joins the two shafts together falls out, as far as I am aware the grub screw was fully tightened and secured with thread lock. On the most resent occasion the pin embedded itself in the plastic trailing arm and the cross joint has disappeared. On both occasions it has been on the motor side. Anyone any ideas ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malakite 6 Posted July 11, 2016 A question if I may guys - My Original Monster beetle has developed a really "clicky" gearbos sound when it accelerates!... Any ideas why? I have stripped the gearbox down but for some reason none of the gears appear to be shredded BUT there is an awful click sound...has anyone every experienced this problem before??.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 3661 Posted July 11, 2016 1 hour ago, Malakite said: A question if I may guys - My Original Monster beetle has developed a really "clicky" gearbos sound when it accelerates!... Any ideas why? I have stripped the gearbox down but for some reason none of the gears appear to be shredded BUT there is an awful click sound...has anyone every experienced this problem before??.. I think the better question is, who hasn't experienced this problem before?!? Seriously though, after a while, the sides of the gear box tend to flex outward and that allows the diff gears to push themselves apart and "click" past each other... MHeald has a neat brace system that bolts on and holds the sides together... There is also the "Frog Screw Mod"... That will hold the diff together, but requires some work... Terry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
berman 5315 Posted July 11, 2016 2 hours ago, Malakite said: A question if I may guys - My Original Monster beetle has developed a really "clicky" gearbos sound when it accelerates!... Any ideas why? I have stripped the gearbox down but for some reason none of the gears appear to be shredded BUT there is an awful click sound...has anyone every experienced this problem before??.. If it isn't your diff gears then it is more likely your hex driveshafts, the other weak link with the original MB. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malakite 6 Posted July 12, 2016 Hi guys - thank you for your responses. OK so perhaps I need to do both then? Can someone point me in the right direction to obtain both replacement part/s and hop ups please? Thanks :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mheald 351 Posted July 13, 2016 19 minutes ago, Malakite said: anyone? PM'd Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LongRat 616 Posted July 15, 2016 Here is my attempt to solve the gearbox issues. Fit and forget, I'm hoping. You could drive a truck over this and it wouldn't flex. 13 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
