ALEXKYRIAK 952 Posted April 1, 2017 So if I was to paint a different colour other than Italian Red, I therefore presume to prime it in a White TS paint - should I sand the shell prior to priming? Why does the manual not instruct you to prime the shell if using the TS-8 Italian red? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALEXKYRIAK 952 Posted April 1, 2017 So if I was to paint a different colour other than Italian Red, I therefore presume to prime it in a White TS paint - should I sand the shell prior to priming? Why does the manual not instruct you to prime the shell if using the TS-8 Italian red? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1575 Posted April 1, 2017 In the old days scuffing the plastic helped paint stick, but these days modern paint hangs on pretty well by itself if surface is cleaned of grease. Need Sand only to remove mold lines & imperfections. No if you're gunna bother priming for TS, get the appropriate primer to suit. Adheres better & imho its softer easier to sand, before color coat. http://www.artbykira.com/photos/2012/little_lonestar_prep/tamiya.jpg 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALEXKYRIAK 952 Posted April 1, 2017 Awesome, thanks WillyChang, much appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALEXKYRIAK 952 Posted April 5, 2017 Quick question: can anyone tell me what height the monster beetle is from the floor to the top of body shell? I am purchasing some clear plastic storage boxes for my cars - I don't have any shelves so they'll have to be 'clear plastic storage box' queens for a while. Only way to keep 'em dust free. My Monster Beetle is as of yet un-built so cannot determine the height currently, but need dim to be able to potentially select the same sized box for all cars. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rb4276 599 Posted April 5, 2017 Approximately 9 1/2 inches 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALEXKYRIAK 952 Posted April 6, 2017 Thanks mate. Also just found it on Tamiya base. 240mm! Good website that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4ferraras 18 Posted April 20, 2017 On 3/6/2017 at 4:39 AM, Frog Jumper said: Pictures please?!? Terry Ok. I may have to post slow due to picture size.:) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pablo68 575 Posted April 20, 2017 On 18/01/2017 at 6:38 AM, Pintopower said: Hey folks I just noticed this (my fault, sorry) and wanted to get my input in here since I helped MIP develop the diff. When it comes to the CVD vs the 2005 rere dog bone, you absolutely cannot use the dog bone at all. The geometry is different between the 2005 and the 2015 version. Though they look like the can work, it is important that they not be used. You will damage the outdrives permanently. As for the wobble, I have been working with someone on it and it does look like you can get replacements from Tamiya if you call them. I really want to make sure you all know about the use of the dogbones with the MIP diff. I don’t want to step on toes but you need to know that the diff was only designed for the CVD version in the 2015 MB & 2016 BF. Actually I'm getting the horrible juddering on my MB with the MIP diff. Wasn't there before. I've limited the travel on my shocks too (~80mm) to try and make sure that isn't the cause. Not sure why it's happening now. I put the MB away in disgust a month or so ago because of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rb4276 599 Posted April 20, 2017 3 hours ago, Pablo68 said: Actually I'm getting the horrible juddering on my MB with the MIP diff. Wasn't there before. I've limited the travel on my shocks too (~80mm) to try and make sure that isn't the cause. Not sure why it's happening now. I put the MB away in disgust a month or so ago because of it. As great as the mip diff is it definitely wasnt the "fix" as they stated. Alot of people like myself have the right universal popping out because it sits right on the edge of the cup. I might of fixed it with a washer and some orings but i only drove it for about 15 minutes. Time will tell, its more of a headache now then when i was running the stock gearbox with the same motor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
magnumb 88 Posted April 20, 2017 On 1/17/2017 at 4:38 PM, Pintopower said: Hey folks I just noticed this (my fault, sorry) and wanted to get my input in here since I helped MIP develop the diff. When it comes to the CVD vs the 2005 rere dog bone, you absolutely cannot use the dog bone at all. The geometry is different between the 2005 and the 2015 version. Though they look like the can work, it is important that they not be used. You will damage the outdrives permanently. As for the wobble, I have been working with someone on it and it does look like you can get replacements from Tamiya if you call them. I really want to make sure you all know about the use of the dogbones with the MIP diff. I don’t want to step on toes but you need to know that the diff was only designed for the CVD version in the 2015 MB & 2016 BF. Do you know if there is a telescoping axle that will work with the MIP diff? This approach seems like it would likely fix all issues had with this gearbox and rear suspension flex. Would love to get one of your kits for the rear suspension...but have too much money invested in sway bars and stiffing plates for stock trailing arms. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
magnumb 88 Posted April 20, 2017 On 1/18/2016 at 7:43 AM, Pumesta said: You also need the King Blackfoot MSC plate too. The King Blackfoot servo cover is longer than a standard Blackfoot or MB one, so you can't even drill the standard MSC plate to bolt it down. I managed to pick up the pair for £10 on Ebay for my Blackfoot, it was money well spent the front shock towers feel so much more solid Has this issue been address in the 2016 versions? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
magnumb 88 Posted April 20, 2017 6 hours ago, Rb4276 said: As great as the mip diff is it definitely wasnt the "fix" as they stated. Alot of people like myself have the right universal popping out because it sits right on the edge of the cup. I might of fixed it with a washer and some orings but i only drove it for about 15 minutes. Time will tell, its more of a headache now then when i was running the stock gearbox with the same motor Is this with the 2016 Tamiya CVD's? If so, that really sucks. Maybe the CRP 1606 would fix your issue as this helps reduce the amount of the flex in the trailing arm??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rb4276 599 Posted April 20, 2017 18 minutes ago, magnumb said: Is this with the 2016 Tamiya CVD's? If so, that really sucks. Maybe the CRP 1606 would fix your issue as this helps reduce the amount of the flex in the trailing arm??? Yes i have a re re beetle, i actually bought the crp caps for the flex. Should be coming tomorrow. Yea to say the mip diff completely fixes the issue is bs. Someone didnt do their homework or just passed it off. To spend $60 and have more of a headache really is ridiculous. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rb4276 599 Posted April 20, 2017 1 hour ago, magnumb said: Do you know if there is a telescoping axle that will work with the MIP diff? This approach seems like it would likely fix all issues had with this gearbox and rear suspension flex. Would love to get one of your kits for the rear suspension...but have too much money invested in sway bars and stiffing plates for stock trailing arms. Even if there was something that would fit is it feasible for 35 yr old technology to spend more money on top of a $60 ball diff when you thought the issues were fixed i'd rather buy a new kit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
magnumb 88 Posted April 20, 2017 1 hour ago, Rb4276 said: Even if there was something that would fit is it feasible for 35 yr old technology to spend more money on top of a $60 ball diff when you thought the issues were fixed i'd rather buy a new kit It did fix the skipping gear problem...but I bet they never thought of the rear arm flex being an issue. Maybe just a hair longer on the outdrives would have prevented axles from falling out. $60 diff was hard to swallow, but I've spent crazy money on this hobby on really dumb things now looking back. Spending big money on a Bigfoot doesn't bother me as much...one of the 1st RCs I've owned back in the 80's and more fun than some of my $2,000 1/8 scale buggies and boats. Plus for me some of fun is fixing these issues and tinkering. I'm thinking those caps along with the spacer that sits inside the gear housing should go a long way in making the MIP diff work on the 2015/2016 ORVs. I may also limit my rear suspension travel a bit and add sway bars. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rb4276 599 Posted April 20, 2017 23 minutes ago, magnumb said: True....$60 diff was hard to swallow, but I've spent crazy money on this hobby on really dumb things now looking back. It did fix the skipping gear problem...but I bet they never thought of the rear arm flex being an issue. Maybe just a hair longer on the outdrives would have fixed that.... Spending big money on a Bigfoot doesn't bother me as much...one of the 1st RCs I've owned back in the 80's and more fun than some of my $2,000 1/8 scale buggies and boats. I'm thinking those caps along with the spacer that sits inside the gear housing should go a long way in making the MIP diff work on the 2015/2016 ORVs. I may also limit my rear suspension travel a bit and add sway bars. I agree, i too have spent alot of money in the 2 yrs that ive gotten back into it with hop ups and everything else but for a truck that already has crap performance you have to draw a lime lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pablo68 575 Posted April 21, 2017 On 20/04/2017 at 7:23 PM, Rb4276 said: As great as the mip diff is it definitely wasnt the "fix" as they stated. Alot of people like myself have the right universal popping out because it sits right on the edge of the cup. I might of fixed it with a washer and some orings but i only drove it for about 15 minutes. Time will tell, its more of a headache now then when i was running the stock gearbox with the same motor Just to clarify, I'm running Pintopowers rear suspension set up on mine, as well as the MIP diff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazekxt 7 Posted April 22, 2017 I to had the issue with right rear dog bone popping out. I put a softer rear spring on all fixed and iam running the mip diff too Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rb4276 599 Posted April 23, 2017 I installed the team crp suspension supports in my beetle today. No more flex and the cvd is a little further in the cup. Hopefully this 30 yr old hop up fixes it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Frog Jumper 946 Posted April 23, 2017 3 hours ago, Rb4276 said: I installed the team crp suspension supports in my beetle today. No more flex and the cvd is a little further in the cup. Hopefully this 30 yr old hop up fixes it It may or may not help... But you can run a long threaded rod between the bottom tab holes in the CRP swing arm holders. Put nuts on each end, and it will run through the unused battery clip hole. You can tighten/loosen this to make the arms tighter/looser... Terry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wilysloth 13 Posted April 23, 2017 Do you know where the bushings go on the CRP 1606? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rb4276 599 Posted April 23, 2017 5 hours ago, wilysloth said: Do you know where the bushings go on the CRP 1606? You open the metal gear case and place it in the hole where the trailingarms go into to stop the movement. I still have the bushing needed for the frog nd brat if anyone is interested Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
