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Monster Beetle re-release #58618

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5 hours ago, wilysloth said:

Do you know where the bushings go on the CRP 1606?

CRP#1606 comes with two bushings.  You only use one however.

The one that is smaller in diameter is for the Frog.  The bigger one is for the Blackfoot.

I'm not sure how or why it makes a difference...

Terry

 

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Ran my beetle yesterday for 20 minutes, no issues what so ever appears to be fixed. Whats another $18 spent lol

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Ran a couple of packs through my MB at the new 1/10 track at the Swindon club this weekend.  The track is awesome and the car went well.

 

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Ran 4  packs through my beetle since installing the crp bushing and arm cover. No issues whatsoever

IMG_0356.JPG

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I'm currently building up my Monster Beetle and I just installed the CRP #1606 suspension bushing and arm covers.  I noticed when I installed the arms that the fit is very tight and it takes quite a bit of effort to move the arms throughout the entire suspension travel with the shocks removed.

Granted I haven't applied any grease because I generally avoid greasing most external part to avoid dirt and/or grit paste build up. Is there something I'm missing?

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1 hour ago, Badgerboy1970 said:

I'm currently building up my Monster Beetle and I just installed the CRP #1606 suspension bushing and arm covers.  I noticed when I installed the arms that the fit is very tight and it takes quite a bit of effort to move the arms throughout the entire suspension travel with the shocks removed.

Granted I haven't applied any grease because I generally avoid greasing most external part to avoid dirt and/or grit paste build up. Is there something I'm missing?

After initially installing the bushing I realized the arms didnt line up perfectly. I had to tear It down and place the arms in to see if the plates align and have smooth movement. Once i did that i had no problem

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1 hour ago, Badgerboy1970 said:

I'm currently building up my Monster Beetle and I just installed the CRP #1606 suspension bushing and arm covers.  I noticed when I installed the arms that the fit is very tight and it takes quite a bit of effort to move the arms throughout the entire suspension travel with the shocks removed.

Granted I haven't applied any grease because I generally avoid greasing most external part to avoid dirt and/or grit paste build up. Is there something I'm missing?

My Frog's swing arms are aluminum, but they function is the same...  I sanded down the rough spots and applied some graphite dry lube to the knobbies that insert into the bushing.  

And I don't use the exterior plates.  But when I did, I applied graphite to those too.  If you insert a thread rod through the bottom holes, running it through the second battery clip hole, you can add nuts and tighten/loosen as needed to give less/more action...

Terry

 

 

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Thanks guys!  I'm guessing it is related to the transmission plate alignment since I had a similar issue with transmission alignment earlier for different reasons. Guess I need to partially disassemble the transmission for the fourth time.   All part of the "fun" right?  LOL

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I bit the bullet the other day and removed the MIP ball diff from my Monster Beetle.

Just couldn't get rid of the juddering. Made sure the suspension arms weren't dropping too far, made sure the shocks were the right length for the Ampro set up.

I think the drive cups on the Tamiya diff are just a bit more forgiving.

There was a bit of wear just below the balls on the drive shafts.

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The other night I come across this "mod" for the ORV transmission. Makes me wonder how does it work.

A fix that looks so simple perhaps it works great. Anybody in here already using it?

goCSW4R.jpg

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So I got the team CRP adjustable motor mount for my re re monster beetle. The instructions state you can not use the stock motor cover and to either leave open or cover with tape. Does anyone with any experience with this mount have any suggestions as to what will fit to cover the gearbox?

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On ‎5‎/‎29‎/‎2017 at 4:06 PM, mongoose1983 said:

The other night I come across this "mod" for the ORV transmission. Makes me wonder how does it work.

A fix that looks so simple perhaps it works great. Anybody in here already using it?

goCSW4R.jpg

I know you need to buy Lightweight hollow shaft set #54319.

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On ‎5‎/‎29‎/‎2017 at 8:23 AM, Pablo68 said:

I bit the bullet the other day and removed the MIP ball diff from my Monster Beetle.

Just couldn't get rid of the juddering. Made sure the suspension arms weren't dropping too far, made sure the shocks were the right length for the Ampro set up.

I think the drive cups on the Tamiya diff are just a bit more forgiving.

There was a bit of wear just below the balls on the drive shafts.

That's terrible...you think juddering was caused by the drive cups?

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On 5/29/2017 at 4:06 PM, mongoose1983 said:

The other night I come across this "mod" for the ORV transmission. Makes me wonder how does it work.

A fix that looks so simple perhaps it works great. Anybody in here already using it?

goCSW4R.jpg

I thought about getting it for my Blackfoot and trying it but the shipping was 7 bucks. I wasn't sure it was worth trying it for 17 total.

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16 hours ago, magnumb said:

That's terrible...you think juddering was caused by the drive cups?

Yeah I think it was. The original drive cups have a larger outside diameter and a larger curved section inside for the drive axle to rub against or not.

The juddering wasn't there before the MIP diff, was there after the instal, and gone again when I removed it.

Now I've looked at it many times to see if it was the way I've installed it and set everything up but I couldn't see anything that I'd done wrong.
I'd hate to say it was the MIP diff itself as it's really a good bit of gear and I don't think it's happened on many other peoples cars.

Got me *******

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18 hours ago, tamiya_1971 said:

I thought about getting it for my Blackfoot and trying it but the shipping was 7 bucks. I wasn't sure it was worth trying it for 17 total.

Definitely, but the idea is interesting as it is something you can do yourself for very little money.

 

 

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On 29/05/2017 at 10:06 PM, mongoose1983 said:

The other night I come across this "mod" for the ORV transmission. Makes me wonder how does it work.

A fix that looks so simple perhaps it works great. Anybody in here already using it?

goCSW4R.jpg

I tried this a couple years ago and found that it caused the transmission to bind if you tightened it too much. In the end I gave up and went with the plate around the diff.  Also my feelings were that I was 'fixing' the wrong bit of the gearbox

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Can anyone recommend a good swaybar/stabilizer for the monster beetle

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1 hour ago, defizr said:

I was thinking of buying a Monster Beetle next week. Am I wasting my money?

If you want it to relive your childhood or nostalgia then no. Otherwise yes it is wasting money

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On ‎6‎/‎9‎/‎2017 at 9:49 AM, Rb4276 said:

Can anyone recommend a good swaybar/stabilizer for the monster beetle

You-G UB-62 are decent for the rear. I have one new in package that I could let go for $40 shipped if I can find it:)

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1 hour ago, magnumb said:

You-G UB-62 are decent for the rear. I have one new in package that I could let go for $40 shipped if I can find it:)

No thanks thats a little to much to spend. I already spent enough to buy another beetle with upgrades i have done. Such as mip diff, crp motor mount and trailing arm caps and bushings and numerous aluminum hop ups

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7 minutes ago, Rb4276 said:

No thanks thats a little to much to spend. I already spent enough to buy another beetle with upgrades i have done. Such as mip diff, crp motor mount and trailing arm caps and bushings and numerous aluminum hop ups

I feel your pain:)

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I bet you easily fab up your own using a sway bar kit from another make and some thin alum stock.

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