MadInventor 3884 Posted January 30, 2016 1:7.6 scale, and it would 10.5ft long. The 1/10 I'm building it in makes it 8ft long, and I have tires for the tractor unit that are 135mm diameter (from memory) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TeaMonster 506 Posted January 30, 2016 This is a stunning build, as said above this has re-defined an epic build. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darat76 265 Posted January 30, 2016 1:7.6 scale, and it would 10.5ft long. The 1/10 I'm building it in makes it 8ft long, and I have tires for the tractor unit that are 135mm diameter (from memory) I could see this as being really cool if done right, but it would require so many man hours of body fabrication for the tractor unit alone. Thanks for doing that math for me too Mad This is a stunning build, as said above this has re-defined an epic build. Totally agree with this statement, and I'm so looking forward to seeing the finished product Would be cool for someone to do the merc war rig to run side by side with Mad's one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted January 31, 2016 Got some spare time over the weekend and managed to get some chassis braces done for the trailer. The left most one will hold the tow pin, and the rightmost plate goes right at the back and will have a steel plate and the tow bar for the fuel pod attached to it. I've still got to put threaded holes in the ends of each plate to attach to the chassis, and am hoping to have these attached to the chassis this week. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted February 5, 2016 Shaped the end of the trailer frame rails today, cleaned and painted them and fitted the chassis braces. Well, all but one. I decided to put in an extra one where the slope of the frame rails starts. Still got to make and paint that one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfdogstinkus 1893 Posted February 5, 2016 Could you PM a couple of pictures of it ? I still need the bonnet in one piece, as it looks like the bonnet was welded to the roof for some reason on the 1:1. I must admit though, I'd really like one of the lexan 'full bodied rear' shells, especially as it will be lighter than the abs shell. I got the clamps completed for the tri axle sub frame this evening, and when I pick up the subframe with the axles attached it feels like it weighs about the same as a clod buster, so a bit less weight will be a good thing. Now that the clamps are done, I can start on the chassis rails for the trailer. I'm going to need a camera with a wider angle lense when I come to upload the pictures of that (The chassis rails are going to be 1.35m long ) sorry, didn't see this post until today, will try and get some pics for you, so you don't have to cut up that body unless I am too late? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted February 5, 2016 sorry, didn't see this post until today, will try and get some pics for you, so you don't have to cut up that body unless I am too late? No, not too late at all. Now I have the chassis of the main trailer done I'm going to spend a bit of time on the tractor unit, probably start with build the frame to hold the rear diffs which will also have the rear suspension arms attached to, might even build the whole tractor unit to the rolling chassis stage before continuing with the tanker trailer. I'm still thinking about how to make the tanker, there is a recessed walkway in the top of it which is going to make things interesting, and as the trailer is so large I don't want to waste any material by getting it wrong first time round. I would appreciate the pics thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XV Pilot 1936 Posted February 5, 2016 Are you aiming to make the tank from metal, or will it be a plastic piece on a metal frame like the fuel pod? If plastic, looking at the shape of the thing, I wonder if a piece of suitably-sized plastic gutter pipe sliced in half lengthways and spaced the appropriate distance apart with styrene formers might work? Flat styrene sheet could then be used to fill in the walkway. Things get a bit tricky near the front where it narrows. Perhaps a slightly smaller piece of sliced pipe for the narrow straight segment and a half right up front, and some thinnish styrene sheet cut to a C shape and curved to make the conical segment where it widens to the main tank? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darat76 265 Posted February 5, 2016 I'm not sure it is a bug hood attached to the roof on the trailer, I can't seem to find a good pic of that part of the trailer, but it appears to me that what ever is mounted on the roof is to flat for a bug hood. Is it possible that the part on the roof is the section that has been cut out of the rear end of the bug? or was that the section you were meaning in the first place? Was in the process of suggesting exactly what XV posted *lol* guess I type to slowly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted February 7, 2016 Are you aiming to make the tank from metal, or will it be a plastic piece on a metal frame like the fuel pod? If plastic, looking at the shape of the thing, I wonder if a piece of suitably-sized plastic gutter pipe sliced in half lengthways and spaced the appropriate distance apart with styrene formers might work? Flat styrene sheet could then be used to fill in the walkway. Things get a bit tricky near the front where it narrows. Perhaps a slightly smaller piece of sliced pipe for the narrow straight segment and a half right up front, and some thinnish styrene sheet cut to a C shape and curved to make the conical segment where it widens to the main tank? Had not noticed that the tank narrows at the front !! Thanks for pointing that out, I'll need s light rethink now. I am going to try and use aluminium sheet (0.25mm) to skin the tank with, and will probably use plastic to make formers to attach the skin to. Because the tank is an ellipse I'm planning on trying to get a friend at work to cut out the formers on a cnc machine, I then should be able to construct it in the same way an aircraft fuselage is put together. I've got to try and keep the metal content down on the trailer, or the size of it will mean it will weigh a ton. I also want to leave a compartment under the tank with room to mount 2 3S LiPos, just in case I can't fit the batteries easily in the tractor unit, or want to connect 4 batteries (2x2) for extra run time. I'm not sure it is a bug hood attached to the roof on the trailer, I can't seem to find a good pic of that part of the trailer, but it appears to me that what ever is mounted on the roof is to flat for a bug hood. Is it possible that the part on the roof is the section that has been cut out of the rear end of the bug? or was that the section you were meaning in the first place? Was in the process of suggesting exactly what XV posted *lol* guess I type to slowly I did think it was the hood rather than the rear engine compartment, the only way to tell will be when I cut the bonnet off I can see what it looks like, or if more pictures surface on the internet that show more detail. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Badcrumble 4204 Posted February 7, 2016 Does this help? http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mikesierra190/Mobile%20Uploads/5bhtpIlCqU4_zpsngpjqjkb.jpg~original Sorry, can't get the image to show in the post. It is a War Rig schematic from a Mad Max Fury Road wiki page. Lots of info about the making of the truck. The rear turret appear to be a beetle body from the A pillar to the rear, no bonnet / wings Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted February 7, 2016 Does this help? http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mikesierra190/Mobile%20Uploads/5bhtpIlCqU4_zpsngpjqjkb.jpg~original Sorry, can't get the image to show in the post. It is a War Rig schematic from a Mad Max Fury Road wiki page. Lots of info about the making of the truck. The rear turret appear to be a beetle body from the A pillar to the rear, no bonnet / wings I'd already got this image, but in worse resolution. Thanks for posting it. Real shame that it's not possible to read the dimensions off it. There are some changes from this art when compared with the film, for instance the rear wheels on the film have been mounted inside out to widen the stance, and are much wider than the front axle. I've been trying as much as possible to use images direct from the film, to ensure consistency. I'll have to watch the film again and see if I can screen grab some more images of the tanker off that. I've just spent some time today working out dimensions for parts to make up the rear axles, and will be starting on those soon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbi1977 1793 Posted February 7, 2016 I'd already got this image, but in worse resolution. Thanks for posting it. Real shame that it's not possible to read the dimensions off it. There are some changes from this art when compared with the film, for instance the rear wheels on the film have been mounted inside out to widen the stance, and are much wider than the front axle. I've been trying as much as possible to use images direct from the film, to ensure consistency. I'll have to watch the film again and see if I can screen grab some more images of the tanker off that. I've just spent some time today working out dimensions for parts to make up the rear axles, and will be starting on those soon. I can just about make out the dimensions on my iPad. Plus the scale is written on the plan so you could measure if you can find an A1 printer. I have a great quality one at work I could use for a donation to school funds! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Badcrumble 4204 Posted February 7, 2016 Sorry it isn't that much use. The site did say this about the War Rig construction.. "During the build of the vehicle, director George Miller could not decide on the length of the front end of The War Rig which made the mechanics come up with a catch phrase in the workshop: "WELD IT ON! CUT IT OFF! WELD IT ON! CUT IT OFF! WELD IT ON! CUT IT OFF!... RAWHIDE!" (To the Rawhide theme music of course)" There is an 'art of..' book that might contain some photos you could use but I doubt there are many and it is £20. Good luck with the build, its amazing and fantastic to see it coming together. It will be huge!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darat76 265 Posted February 8, 2016 Does this help? http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mikesierra190/Mobile%20Uploads/5bhtpIlCqU4_zpsngpjqjkb.jpg~original Sorry, can't get the image to show in the post. It is a War Rig schematic from a Mad Max Fury Road wiki page. Lots of info about the making of the truck. The rear turret appear to be a beetle body from the A pillar to the rear, no bonnet / wings That layout shows a mustang like body attached to the front of the tank facing backwards, but in the movie it appears to me to be more like the entire cab of the tractor unit itself facing forward. The actual tank in those plans, when looking at the top down view, reminds me of like an apollo rocket without the nose cone, and when looking at the tanker from the front section it's like it's almost a perfect cylinder and not the normal oval shaped tanks in 1:1 tanker trailers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted March 5, 2016 Haven't posted in this thread for a while, got floored by the flu for a couple of weeks which stopped progress completely, but have got quite a lot done this weekend. All 6 tractor unit wheels have been turned on the lathe, 3 down, 3 to go on drilling the bolt pattern. I went for a 10 hole pattern in the end, so 60 holes to drill in the wheels, the same to drill and tap for the hubs. Got 1 hub finished and the blanks done for 5 others, hoping to get the rest of the drilled and tapped tomorrow, but have run out of socket cap bolts to attach the hubs to the wheels. Some pictures: The hubs will held on with two 5mm grub screws, which means as the wheels are bolted to the hubs I won't need a centre wheel nut . Bit time consuming if I have to take a wheel off though, 10 socket caps to take out ..... 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JNSD1 288 Posted March 6, 2016 Amazing. Let's hope you have a good cordless drill with hex in it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted March 6, 2016 Amazing. Let's hope you have a good cordless drill with hex in it No cordless drill, just a long handled screwdriver with a hex attachment on the end. Made these today: They're wheel trims for the front wheels: The finished wheels, hubs, and wheel trims: 9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mannyp1980 49 Posted March 7, 2016 This is amazing work!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted March 12, 2016 Done a bit more on the FAV chase vehicle today: Plugged the hole in the chassis where I removed the mount for the MSC: I also fitted a hobbywing 1060 in it and gave it a spin round the garden on a 1800mah 3S 20C LiPo. I don't know if it's battery, the pogo stick dampers, or the metal rear underguard, but it pulls wheelies really easily from a standing start, and the front end has an awful lot of bounce in it. Going to be fun to drive in a wide open space 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mannyp1980 49 Posted March 12, 2016 If I may ask, why are you using the 27MHz system and not 2.4GHz on the FAV? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadInventor 3884 Posted March 12, 2016 If I may ask, why are you using the 27MHz system and not 2.4GHz on the FAV? None of my stuff is 2.4GHz. Some of it dates back to early 2000's before 2.4 and I could buy a set of ACOMS techniplus for £28, so I bought a few of them. The rest of it is just stuff that's come in second cars I've bought off EBay. This RX came from a car my other half picked up at a boot sale for £25 and this was in the spares box that came with it. Works fine for me and I never seem to get any interference issues 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darat76 265 Posted March 12, 2016 If I may ask, why are you using the 27MHz system and not 2.4GHz on the FAV? as the old saying goes If it ain't broke, don't fix it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Incredible_Serious 107 Posted March 12, 2016 as the old saying goes If it ain't broke, don't fix it Said no government ever...... 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darat76 265 Posted March 12, 2016 tiz a good thing we ain't no government Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
