Dynatech in SRB gearbox, have you ever?

[Scorchio]

I now have a sexy Dynatech motor with 10 turn rotors. While fiddling last night I discovered it fits beautifully into an SRB gearcase. Only problem is the vent holes at the brush end are covered by the case. Air can still get through between the grooves of the case, but I do have a cracked gearcase I can dremel some slots in do you think this necessary? as if I don't have to I wont.

I know 10 turns is MAD! for an SRB but I plan to get some 13 turn rotors []

[mud4fun]

Good thing about the SRB gearcase is that it is all aluminium so acts like a giant heatsink []

The more serious issue you'll have before heat is gearing. You only have two stock gearing options for the SRB. The 70t spur option which I use in my monster scorcher seems pretty low but not sure if that will be low enough for a 10t motor?. The meyhem pulls great in it and that is with WW2 tyres/wheels []

[GPZ1000RX]

You need gearing lower than a low thing that's being extra specially low today to run a 10 turn motor, particularly in anything heavy.

All the aluminium heatsinking/ventilation you can provide won't stop the arm blowing if you overgear a 10 turn!

[Scorchio]

Thanks all, I had forgot to mention I have a set of CRP steel pinions & gears that go pretty low for the srb The medium set is on this car now, you can just about see em

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getuserimage.asp...004223828_1.jpg

The pinion on this one has 15 teeth and its the medium set of the 3 not sure on actual figures of the rest but will check that out.

I don't actually intend to run it with the 10x2 though, I'd prefer the 13x2 rotors. I've already used 15x2 in an SRB with standard gearing so thought with 13x2 I'd be pushing the envelope just a little further. Also with 413g-cm torque I thought that would be plenty for a heavy car, Don't come much higher than that at those turns does it? or is that high figure the problem we are speaking of?

Cheers

[Wireless]

I say go for it. The load on motors comes when you're at low rpm and wide open throttle which causes tons of amps to be pumped round the arm windings. Avoid running on rough ground and constant hard acceleration followed by hard braking and it'll be fine.

If you have an adjustable ramp up on your ESC set it to the maximum time (shallowest ramp) and this will limit the peak currents drawn during acceleration from a standstill and such.

Check the motor after each run to make sure it's not insanely hot, check the brush wear and colouring (if they are discolouring / blueing due to heat you have problems). Generally it's common sense - the same thing that let me run a Trinity 9x1 in a Falcon with 8.4v and an MSC with no damage at all...!!!

Roop

[Sonic]

Hey Scorch,

Yep tried it and all i can say is i hope you have plenty of rear tyres because one things for sure you will get though them.

Also tried the legendary CONRAD 240826 but the infomation on that is classified []

Lee.

[Scorchio]

Thanks Roop, what to look out for helps a great deal, may stock up on brushes just in case. My esc is not that sophisticated (m sonic 4 rv11) so I'll just take it easy on the stick.

[^][^] LOL Sonic, you did once mention the conrad gearbox meltdown [:0] Oh no!! now your gonna have to kill me now LOL.

Im gona go ahead and experiment though, I've got a brass centre gear + bearings and a diff in the gearbox so no gear stripping worries, I'll crack out the parma tractor type tyres again [}] I got three sets of rears so I'll see how quick the first set become 'slicks' then I'll see if I need a wheelie bar []

Many thanks all, and I'll be posting results (in a couple of weeks, Oh so busy [])

[Shodog]

I think you might be biting off more than you can chew. the dynatech is going to overpower the SRB. Hello wheelies!!!

[Martin71RS(2)]

Phil, good to see the 02H finds a good home []

be sure to make a movie (if possible) with the SRB flying by.....

Martin