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kar120c

DT-02 how is brushless proof?

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I have a combo EZrun 4300 brushless system esc motor and program card.

Is this motor too powerful for a DT02 chassis with stock gears?

I intend to try it setting the lowest timing and reducing throttle in the radio.

Any suggestion?

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As far as I'm aware the DT-02 gearbox is quite robust. I ran mine with a 20 turn brushed motor and 2S lipos without any issues. I recommend using a steel 17 tooth pinion to keep the temperature down.

Steve.

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As far as I'm aware the DT-02 gearbox is quite robust. I ran mine with a 20 turn brushed motor and 2S lipos without any issues. I recommend using a steel 17 tooth pinion to keep the temperature down.

Steve.

 

Steel for lower temperature? the stock pinion of my DT-02 is 17t is alluminium, does it makes the difference?

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No steel to stop it wearing down to nothing in two runs and 17t to motor temps down. Might be worth tuning the DT-02 heat sink kit as well

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Steel for lower temperature? the stock pinion of my DT-02 is 17t is alluminium, does it makes the difference?

Sorry for the misunderstanding the standard alloy tamiya pinion gears are like butter with a hot motor hence the need for a steel pinion gear.

With regards to the teeth number on the pinion a 17 tooth will give better acceleration and lower top speed but will help with motor temperature. Whereas a 19 tooth pinion will give you better top speed but less acceleration and generally the motor will run hotter.

A motor heat sink would be a good idea. I also fitted UJ'S on mine.

Steve.

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I think the DT-02 gearbox can take a V8, it's incredible...

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I had the ezrun 9t which I think is 4300kv in mine with the 17t pinion and it was a beast

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I had a 12.5 turns (around 3500 kV, I think), and man, that was fast, even though I used a 15T pinion and special motor mount for better torque. People asked me if this was a nitro car.

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I had the ezrun 9t which I think is 4300kv in mine with the 17t pinion and it was a beast

 

Stock gears? from how do you run this config without breaking anything?

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The DT-02 is extremely tough and the gears are huge. They can take a lot of abuse and there is enough flex in the back end and the drive shafts to absorb shocks without a slipper clutch.

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Waiting to install my BL combo now I am trying a 14t brushed motor. This motor has the open can on the rear so I can't add a heat sink and one side of the motor is very near, almost in touch with the plastic gear box. Maybe the motor heat melt the plastic?

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As long as you keep the thin washer plate in place between motor and gearbox, I wouldn't worry about the gearbox melting. Rather I'd worry about the motor taking damage from overheating because it may be geared too short even on the smaller pinion gear.

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As long as you keep the thin washer plate in place between motor and gearbox, I wouldn't worry about the gearbox melting. Rather I'd worry about the motor taking damage from overheating because it may be geared too short even on the smaller pinion gear.

 

No problem for motor, it's an old thing I had in my parts. For washer plate, do you mean the simil cardboard grey disk? i thought it was thinked to avoid debris go inside motor

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Yes that's the plate. You're correct, from my point of view its 2nd function besides keeping dirt away from the gears is also some form of heat insulation.

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I run a 4350kv motor in my Sand Viper without any problems, I had a velineon in my holiday buggy and surprisingly the stock plastic dogbones had no problems. The only issue I've had running hot motors in this chassis has wearing down the backside of the gearbox(front unstoppable wheelies).

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when looking at what motor is the optimum for the DT02 chassis there are more things to concider than just if the gears will take the power.

the DT02 platform was designed for the 'Super fighter cup' in Japan. It as we know it has been huge on the European continent.

it was never designed to handle big power, that is obvious from the non fibre reinforced plastic, just standard twisty rubbish. So one has to think that there is no slipper clutch just a limited slip ball diff option.

The chassis has awful nasty bump steer, no anti squat and no rear toe in, the front caster is all wrong. So the handling is so poor with any decent power that is a joke to drive.

For the money it is a fun car with moderate power such as a 23 turn brushed motor (17.5 brushless)

A 19 turn spec brushed motor is the chassis hottest motor it can handle without any chassis twisting or the 10.5 brushless.

To enjoy the car to it's full potential is very wise to keep the power within the chassis limits, even with all the hop ups just remember what the car was designed for.

Want something that handle big power then spend a little more money and buy a better kit.

but everyone to their own, what is fun for some is not for others, we are all different after all. Life would be dull if we all were.

Want to race your DT02, see this years DT02 challenge and get yourself booked in

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when looking at what motor is the optimum for the DT02 chassis there are more things to concider than just if the gears will take the power.

the DT02 platform was designed for the 'Super fighter cup' in Japan. It as we know it has been huge on the European continent.

it was never designed to handle big power, that is obvious from the non fibre reinforced plastic, just standard twisty rubbish. So one has to think that there is no slipper clutch just a limited slip ball diff option.

The chassis has awful nasty bump steer, no anti squat and no rear toe in, the front caster is all wrong. So the handling is so poor with any decent power that is a joke to drive.

Ok, you are right, but if I want to go brushless, is difficult to compare Brushed T with Brushless T and the kv too often are not a real indicator of the power ot the motor. So, if different 23t brushed motors are similar in performances is difficult to understand what bl motor is comparable

For the money it is a fun car with moderate power such as a 23 turn brushed motor (17.5 brushless)

A 19 turn spec brushed motor is the chassis hottest motor it can handle without any chassis twisting or the 10.5 brushless.

To enjoy the car to it's full potential is very wise to keep the power within the chassis limits, even with all the hop ups just remember what the car was designed for.

Want something that handle big power then spend a little more money and buy a better kit.

but everyone to their own, what is fun for some is not for others, we are all different after all. Life would be dull if we all were.

Want to race your DT02, see this years DT02 challenge and get yourself booked in

 

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Ok, you are right, but if I want to go brushless, is difficult to compare Brushed T with Brushless T and the kv too often are not a real indicator of the power ot the motor. So, if different 23t brushed motors are similar in performances is difficult to understand what bl motor is comparable

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Most brushed motors advertise the power and/or the rpm with reference to the number or turns.

It is the same for brushless motors, the kv being k = the number of rotations to v = the number of volts.

So in fact it is very simple to work out.

On a rule of thumb the following are roughly the same.

Brushless Brushed

6.5 10t

7.5 12t

8.5 14t

9.5 17t

10.5 19t (spec)

13.5 23t

17.5 27t

This is only a rough guide as stated but pretty much taken as the norm.

When buying brushless motors advertised in kv use maths to work out the brushed equivalent.

With the cost of brushless now cheaper than brushed and sensored brushless systems are cheap so there is no need to buy nasty non sensored rubbish.

Yes even for bashing !

There is no need to suffer crappy performance and cogging when sensored gear is readily available and very good prices if you know where to look !

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Thank you, a lot of usefull info

 

Most brushed motors advertise the power and/or the rpm with reference to the number or turns.

It is the same for brushless motors, the kv being k = the number of rotations to v = the number of volts.

So in fact it is very simple to work out.

On a rule of thumb the following are roughly the same.

Brushless Brushed

6.5 10t

7.5 12t

8.5 14t

9.5 17t

10.5 19t (spec)

13.5 23t

17.5 27t

This is only a rough guide as stated but pretty much taken as the norm.

When buying brushless motors advertised in kv use maths to work out the brushed equivalent.

With the cost of brushless now cheaper than brushed and sensored brushless systems are cheap so there is no need to buy nasty non sensored rubbish.

Yes even for bashing !

There is no need to suffer crappy performance and cogging when sensored gear is readily available and very good prices if you know where to look !

 

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Decent advice there from Super Gripper but I would not agree that sensorless is necessarily worse. There are some very nice systems out there that do not use sensors, some might I add that I have won many races with. Very nice hardware from Hacker and the Hobbywing EZ-RUN system being two examples. They have the advantages of greater durability and simplicity with no sensor cable, or sensors to fail at high temperature. Especially if you run in the rain they are much more reliable too as the hall sensors do not like to get wet.

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