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MF-01X Suzuki Jimny all-weather runner build

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I have had the Jimny running for a little while now, and yesterday we took it on a good long drive around the woods of Woodhall Spa.

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I thought I might write a bit about my driving experiences with the model so far, in case they prove useful to anyone considering getting one themselves.

Handling on the road:

The car handles much like one would expect a SWB 4WD to handle - quite neutral in terms of understeer and oversteer, but twitchier than a standard TC chassis due to its shorter wheelbase. The narrow track and tall stance make it quite prone to grip rolling - it is not the sort of car that enjoys having a whole lot of lock suddenly applied when going full-out.

Handling in the rough:

On surfaces with less grip, the model becomes a lot more fun as grip rolling is not really an issue. It is a tough little thing that can handle jumps with ease, not necessarily always landing shiney side up, but surviving the landing forces without damage. The wobbly body posts and thin flexible shell make for surprisingly resilient combo - there have been no cracks or damage despite some less-than-pleasant rollovers.

Handling in the very rough:

Obviously this is no crawler-based scaler, and it won't be a threat to models like the CR-01 or SCX10 in extreme offroad conditions. However it is nonetheless surprisingly capable for what it is. I have been running it alongside my CC-01 and TL-01 scalers, and while it can't keep up with my modded CC-01 when the going gets really rough, it is a very good match for my TL-01 Range Rover Evoque. Yesterday we were running the vehicles on terrain that varied from footpaths to rough forest floor, and apart from having to remove twigs from the suspension every now and then, there were no issues.

I have also been running it quite successfully on gravel, firm sand, grass and mud. Sometimes it gets bogged down when the going is really soft, but this adds to the challenge, making it necessary to pick ones line rather than merely drive at an obstacle and let the car do the rest.

I find that, while the car is good fun at speed, it is even more fun trying to get it to successfully cross obstacles and terrain that it was never really designed to tackle. Plus it is a great little trail companion. With this in mind, I replaced the 27T motor originally installed with a 55T one, which isn't as fast, but has more torque, runs cooler and gives better battery life.

All in all I would say the model is a success, offering a fun and engaging drive in a good-looking, tough and reliable little package. I'd certainly recommend it to anyone who is considering one.

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I'm surprised you found it would grip roll, I personally have found the opposite (albeit I've only ever run on grass and rough pavement). The COG is very low even with the touring car sized wheels and tyres, I found I could give it maximum throttle and full lock and the little thing would just hold on, almost defying logic because the shell makes it look much taller!

But then it's not standard either, mine has the softest springs I could find and a 35T motor / 17T pinion.

Either way I can't wait to fit my latest wheel and tyre combo and have another go, these really are great little cars, effectively just shorter TL01s!

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Perhaps I was being too harsh in my assessment. I only really found grip roll to be an issue on high-grip surfaces such as clean tarmac. Anything with a bit of slide to it and it stayed upright quite nicely. And it would only do it when I was pushing the car's limits to see what it would do. It is easy enough to drive around the issue.

My tyre choice also no doubt played a role - the tyres that came preglued to my aftermarket wheels are of a softer compound than the Tamiya originals and seem a fair bit grippier.

And of course, my motor played a role. The 27T Etronix I was using had a fair bit of poke - it was basically a ROAR 24° Stock motor upgraded with bearings. With the stock silver can it probably wouldn't be an issue, and of course with the 55T I am running at the moment, it is not an issue at all.

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Hi xv did you have any problems with the rear dog bones popping out or nearly coming out on full suspension travel when you fitted the super mini cva and did the rear travel mod.

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Hi xv did you have any problems with the rear dog bones popping out or nearly coming out on full suspension travel when you fitted the super mini cva and did the rear travel mod.

I have the same problem

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I have that problem too - not investigated it properly but it was worse when I tried to use universals...

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Have you put the Oring in both ends?

I found the universals to be a bit short at full travel. The raised position on the hub does not help as it puts the drive angle very low even when the arms are level

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Hi xv did you have any problems with the rear dog bones popping out or nearly coming out on full suspension travel when you fitted the super mini cva and did the rear travel mod.

I didn't have that issue, but then I built my Mini CVAs with internal spacers to ensure that they did not extend more than a couple of mm further than the stock pogo sticks at maximum extension. Had I omitted the internal spacers, I very likely would have run into this issue, as the long ball stud mod allows the rear suspension to drop well below the maximum angle that the dogbones can manage, and if the shocks don't prevent it from doing so, the dogbones will pop out.

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Thank xv I actually came to the same conclusion when I had another look at the problem tonight and measured the shocks. With the spacer added all is now well.

Just out of interest when you built your CVAs what damping disk did you use 1,2 or 3 holes

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As I built my Jimny as a trail runner, I used the 3-hole disks, after having found that relatively "quick" shocks helped my CC-01 suspension react better on rough terrain at low speeds.

If I had built it as a quick smooth-terrain runner, I would probably have opted for the two-hole ones instead.

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I've gone with the 2 hole disc but I might change it to a 3 as I also intended mine to be a trail runner. I will give it a go with the 2 hole and see how I get on.

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Let us know how you get on. And don't hesitate to post some pics too! :)

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I will do when it's done I've just got the decals and led lights left to do. my waterproof hobbywing brushed esc turned up today, I have not used this type before so it will be interesting to see what it's like.

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Thanks for the tip there XV Pilot - will have another look over mine :) Still loving the little Jimny :D

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The rear suspension design on these is a disgrace really, whether in high or low ride-height configuration. The 'extensions' on the rear uprights hit the gear casing on the propshaft side, to such an extent that the camber is affected when running low ride-height. No impressed!

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The rear suspension design on these is a disgrace really, whether in high or low ride-height configuration. The 'extensions' on the rear uprights hit the gear casing on the propshaft side, to such an extent that the camber is affected when running low ride-height. No impressed!

I use the "low" ride height setting on the rear hub to prevent the dogbone falling out and the "high" camber link hole to clear the gearbox casing. It's not stated in the manual but it works for me.

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Yes it is bright and in the sun it has q colour changing effect. I took it for a little run round the garden it's much faster than I thought it would be but it seems to have no problem with the long grass

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